greg g

The Carter is a good reliable carb that is fairly easy to rebuild. In the downloads section of this web site there is a step by step with pictures on doing a rebuild kit on the Carter. There has been discussion on float setting lower then spec as an adjustment to avoid percolation of current fuel blends. Some folks have had good service from the Holley carb used on the 225 cu in slant six and larger 60s Ford 6 cylinder. Not the 170/200 Mustang/Falcon stuff. These have an externally adjustable main jet. Most of these will fit the manifold stud spacing. The linkage might need tweaking as to direction of pull.

The 56 trans was not an od equipped unit. So I guess that's the rub. Thanks for both responses.

Don't reverse with the od engaged. Some have mentioned a slide rail extension or similar to disengage od, if mine has it, it doesnt seem to work. Mine is a 54 od on a 56 trans. Makes expensive noises if I try to back out of the garage with the cable in od on position. maybe some one can explain with visual aides included.

Plymouthy, Chrysler actually did make flathead v8's, in France when they bought Simca. Several models of Simca cars and a commercial vehicle or two were powered by liscence built Ford v8. Chrysler continued production after re engineering the blocks to deal with their well known deficiencies. I believe they manufactured these engine well after flathead 6 engines were quit in the US. The simca Vedette got the flathead Ford v8 through till 1961. So a Flathead V8 in a Plymouth isn't a far stretch. Run what changes brung. https://www.motortrend.com/news/simca-ford-flathead-v-8s-until-1961-found/ Simca of Brazil may have stuck with that powerplant till 64 in a Model called the Esplanade.

A thing that I notice with mine is when driving at idle through a parking lot or field at a show cruise in, people will just walk out from between cars, or mosey along in front of us as we arrive or leave. Then they turn their head and be surprised I'm behind them. Gonna have to loosen up a lifter or two.

I have mine wired according to George's schematic which is available in this sites download section. I don't have a kick down switch. So the governorship is to activate the ground connection for the solenoid. The solenoid has two functions, the pull in circuit which engages the od, an internal set of points that engages a hold in circuit. When the hold in clicks in it releases the pull in. Both are grounded through the governor if you interupt the ground the od drops out. The pull in takes about 10 or 12 amps so it needs a healthy wire to provide current, the hold in requires 4 or 5 amps. My understanding is kick down was initiated when you floored the gas pedal as you would do in passing a vehicle, or anticipating a long hill. So that language from George about shifting out of OD under a load makes sense. I admit I usually shift in and out with a slack driveline. I power the switch circuit of my relay through a switch through a 10 amp inline fuse from the accessory connection on the ign switch. That switch is located on the signal light housing. If I need to shift out of OD with urgency, I usethat switch to depower the relay. I can't remember but I think the governor ground connection runs through the push pull cable terminals. Got 10 to 12k miles with no faults. Hope that makes sense.

Or in the case of a vehicle with a new fully charged battery, that starts right up, it won't charge till it needs to.

Might be the voltage regulator. Simple test, start the car and use the hand throrrle to up idle to 800 or so. Use a jumper wire to ground the field terminal. The field terminal is the smaller diameter generator terminals. The ammeter should peg to full charge. If it does the generator is working, and the fault is in the regulator and or it's wiring. If the regulator cover will come off, remove the cover and clean all these points. Retest. If still no charge, check the regulator wires and connections.

In the alfa coded tire sizes A was equivalent to a 600 bias ply or a 155 radial. The 78 is a reference to aspect ratio where tread with is 78% of sidewall height. Your Gs are probably comparable to a 215/225 mm tread width radial. I don't like a floaty, leany ride. I usually knock 5 to7 psi off the tires max, or split the difference between the frame sticker and the max on the tire.

First time in crate. Yes he got out. 20230116_141520.heic 20230116_141513.heic

Two hours after arriving from the shelter.

Could it be exhaust heat riser flapping around? Wire it in open (rotated fully clock wise) and wire it there temporarily. Might also be the flapper shaft leaking. Remember if you decide to remove the manifold assembly, there are 13 fasteners holding it together. When reinstalling, leave the four bolts holding the manifolds together just snugged. They can then get a final tighten when finished tightening the 13 manifold nuts. Another consideration when putting the manifolds on, tighten the fasteners in a spiral pattern starting in the middle and working outward to the ends. Do not over tighten. Snug them then add quarter turn, start and run the engine to operating temp. When it has coold enough to work on, snug and quarter again from the center out. Then check the 4 on the heat riser. These assemblies heat and cool at different rates, they need to be able to move as they do so. Over tightening prevents this and leads to cracking. Remember the magic number is 13 plus 4(heat riser) When I did mine, I took an old Taiwan box end wrench took out a section of the box like a tubing wrench, and ground it thinner to make it easier to get the nuts that are partially obscured behind the exhaust casting. Good luck.

I believe the series beginning with N were 58/59 or later. Some of these had a wierd water pump. This to accommodate lower hood lines of the cars. But I don't remember where I saw or heard this.

What did you get in the 225/75?

So in 2005 I bought 4 uniroyal 205 75 r15 radials from Walmart,at 52 bucks with mounting balancing and unlimited road hazard warranty, mounted on new 15 inch aftermarket rims,if memory serves I ran them for 2 years. They were a bit short in diameter compared to the 6.00x16 original size. In 2007 we decided to drive to Charlotte, NC to attend the POC event there. In preparation for the trip I mounted a pair of 225 75r15 on the rear to drop some rpms going down the road. I put the 205 take offs in a black contractors trash bag and stored them under my work bench in the garage. Three years ago, I replaced the fronts with the stored pair. After about 45000 miles the fronts showed equal wear, at about half tread depth, no scalloping and no visible checking or bulging. The reserved set still looked new with 80 % tread and no visible faults. They have about 9000 miles on them since re mounting. The rears now have about 60k on them. They show as good condition with about 1/2 tread left. They came from Pep Boys and are what was then their Cornell house brand, according to the paper work their out the door price was 115 for the pair. Looking back, my father would be proud of my parsemoney in this matter. Others would call me a cheap SOB. Whatever, I think, I will let them ride for the season. Looking on line, both the 205 75 and 225 75 sizes have been relegated to trailer sizes through tegular retail sources, so not good news. I loath the thought of dealing with Cocker...

Just visited my area TSC to pick up some oil. Shelves had a pretty meager selection. On the positive side, there was a good supply of SAE 20 and 30. Plenty of SAE 10w 40. Some of that new 5w 20 stuff. I have been using thier 15w40 Traveller All Fleet brand since my rebuild 14 years ago. This oil is now 10W 40. I guess at this point in time, I will pretend I didnt notice the change and carry on as before. Which was adding a pint every 600 or 700 miles between annual changes. Now I guess I need to consider replacing my 2008 tires.

Public Service Announcement.Time to spring into warm weather driving mode. Remember to reverse your car's battery cables to change heater to cooler function. Happy Motoring to all.

There are several 40s Mopars in New England, Eastern and Central NY. If you would sign up for the P 15 Picnic iUSA in September (12-15) you could make their acquaintance, and do some scenic touring. Details for this year are being finalized but we will be using Cooperstown, NY as our base. Contact mark@rdusaclassics.com to get details and reservation info emailing. Pic from 2024 tour in eastern Ontario/Niagara region. The pink Caddy will be replaced by a p15 convertible this year.

Got the trickle charger on to do start up. Gotta wait for a goodly rain to wash off the last of the residual road salt off. They just applied a bunch of brine and rock salt in advance of the last nor Easter that didn't materialize here. We don't call it The Salt City only for potatoes.

I wondered about the blow through as well. It seems the G P blower was good for 116hp, over the 85 with no blower. Could been a hoot in a relatively light coupe. Especially for the mid 1930s. Bet the 0 to 60 was in the 15 second range.

From the flathead six web page.

I believe the secret was 8 or 10 ply truck tires and fuel mileage resulting in many fewer pit stops.

More conflicting info. According to the photo of the lube info page of a 49 dodge found on the Old Cars Brochure web site, the three speed manual trans takes 2 3/4 pints of SAE 80 gear lube. The Gyromatic needs 3 pints of Sae 10w engine oil. Fluid drive unit says after an initial fluid level check at 1000 miles, checks of fluid level and top off if required is every 10,000 miles.

I used Allen head bolts to reinstall the trans. The bolt is a lot easier to start on the end of a long socket extension. Makes getting the upper one on the drivers side much easier to deal with. So if you us the alignment bolts mentioned above, make two. Put them in the top passenger side and bottom on drivers side. Then put the hex bolts into the open ones and snug them in.

There is an r 10 owner user manual in the downloads section of this site. Go to the main page its under one of th pull down tabs. There is also a schematic for wiring a manual by pass of the link down switch. So you can operate before you figure out the factory setup.