Mark Haymond

I put in a Champion radiator. The fins are very soft so protect the front and back of the radiator with cardboard or sheet metal during installation. It only takes a few oops moments with knuckles or tools to put ugly dings in the fins. This is only cosmetics, it will not hurt the radiator. But you will be happier every time you open your hood.

Kiethb7 maybe the Town and Country owner expected you to be one more guy to look for a chromed dressed big block under the hood and be disappointed.

That is funny. Someone was careless at work, no doubt.

My 50 Plymouth had a cork gasket. The gasket will not be under air pressure. It is used to keep oil that swirls up the shaft from leaking out under the distributor.

My 50 Plym plastic gear shift knob was missing. I found that the similar plastic cowl vent knob from a wrecking yard fit perfectly and was very similar in appearance. The threads are a standard SAE coarse size. I am suggesting that many knobs with the same thread size could be used. If it is the wrong color, paint it.

After missing a couple of years I am looking forward to returning this year. Today I gassed up my 1950 Plymouth, checked the tire pressure and oil level. Saturday morning I will drive up from Fresno with a grin upon my face.

I will say this in jest but other owners who have done it may agree in spirit. Carefully list the dollar cost of all your drivetrain upgrade parts. Multiply by three. Calculate the number of weeks for the complete upgrade project. Multiply that by ten.

A dual reservoir master cylinder and disk brakes will be a big safety improvement. You can take your time to decide all the other stuff, according to your own schedule, fabrication skills, and budget.

If the glass is too big because the shop traced around your blanks and cut on the wider traced line the glass may not fit. That happened to me.

My gray 50 Plymouth had black welting on the rear fenders. I think I got replacement welting from Andy Berbaum but that was 15 years ago. It was a little tricky getting it in straight during the fender tightening but it looked good at the end. I had the car painted first and put in the black welting afterward.

Clickbait. I should have known better. I just wasted three perfectly good groans from my lifetime allotment.

On my P15 there were some anti rattle cloth type strips between the sides of the dash and the side of the frame near the door openings. I may have reused them, I don't remember. I don't have any dash rattles, I think the strips were a little bit of "good practices" overkill. The purpose of the piping under the front of the window garnish may have been to prevent air leaks from the defroster channels in the garnish.

I have a 50 Plymouth Special Deluxe with a heater. The heater core was moved to the engine compartment about 49 to prevent a dangerous core failure next to the front passenger's feet. The Special Deluxe had a second blower motor under the dash to drive the defroster vents. The old heater worked well for me when the temps were below 32 degrees in Western Maryland. I did not have to run it on "high" to be warm. The repo duct should work fine, the originals were some kind of pressed and stapled fiber material. After all, it is just an air duct, so any fiber or metal duct should work if you do not need an original look. Make sure to keep the duct sealed well at the firewall or you may get carb smells.

It is not unusual for a water pump seal to fail after a car has not run in years. These engines were used for cars, trucks, agricultural equipment, and forklifts. So you can probably get one at NAPA or your local store. Get a pump, don't bother with a repair kit.