Off topic...apologies in advance

[Tim Frank]

This is not at all on topic, but I hope I won’t be shot for attempting to draw on the collective expertise that is resident in here.

Short description of the problem: I bought a car from my Dad, which has a trailer hitch installed. This is a Japanese vehicle, and the hitch is welded to rear sub-frame.

The problem is that Dad had not removed the “removable” drawbar for some time. It is now rusted firmly in place. Two Canadian winters worth!

The draw bar is 1 ¼ inch square steel bar.

Too much pounding is a no-no because the welds may suffer….similarly too much heat is also an issue.

Has anyone had any luck removing a severely stuck drawbar?

Maybe I should leave well enough alone?

Thanks,

Tim

[Young Ed]

My Grandpa had done the same thing to the one on my moms 97 olds 88. He had not removed it since he bought the car new. We got it in 2000. Even though it only had 3500 miles on it the 3 winters had rusted that thing in good. Heat and pounding and soaking are the only ways to get them out. You can try pulling on it too with the pin removed.

[Don Coatney]

Tim;

I would not think that too much pounding would make the welds suffer. Does the hammering of too much trailer pulling make the welds suffer?

Now if you are really brave simply connect a heavy trailer to the hitch. Remove the receiver locking pin, do not connect the safety chains, and go for a drive. You will know as soon as everything breaks loose.

[Tim Frank]

I thought of cutting off the bar and drilling through the remaining length ( ~ 4") and rigging up a puller. Wonder how long it would take to drill a 1/2" hole 4 inches long?

[p10plymouth]

I have had many stubborn parts like that.. I have found using a air chisel with a blunt tip really loosens any thing up... heck , if you can find a street-worker on the road with a jack hammer... Don't forget to prelube with PB Blaster well that baby would really come out.. good luck

[Tim Frank]

The locking pin will have to be drilled out. Oxy-acetylene torch, red hot for 15 minutes, and it just laughed at me.

[Tim Frank]

Is PB blaster the penetrating oil of choice in here?

[Young Ed]

Sounds like its time for the air chisel with the punch end on it. If that doesnt get it I dont know what would. Wear ear protection if you use one-its LOUD

[martybose]

Is PB blaster the penetrating oil of choice in here?

The other good penetrating oil is any of the Kroil products, available from http://www.kanolabs.com

[greg g]

Put it under tension while you heat and bang on it. Rig a come along to a stout tree and crank it up tight against the weight and brakes of the car. Then heat it and hammer on it. You could also drill some additinal holes along the reciever to get more area for the penetrating oil to work on.

[dirty dan]

Is PB blaster the penetrating oil of choice in here?

It is at the dirty household.

[dirty dan]

Have you tried to snatch it out with another vehicle and a nylon tow strap?

[Plymouthy Adams]

ouch on the other car and nylon strap...SHOULD it eventually come free...it is going to be a missle heading right at the other car....I DO NOT suggest this method....

I also had one like this..came on the car used...was still stuck when car was sold..still have the hitch..it was easier to remove from the vehicle...

[62rebelP23]

it would be if you didn't put a heavy drag chain on the strap, just laid over it to knock it downwards. a piece of old carpet or such like would work also; we used this as a safety device when winching things in the Navy, to keep snap back from causing casualties.

PB B'laster! great stuff! doesn't smell as bad as Liquid Wrench as seems to work better; stays in place better IMHO. i won't use the other stuff, WD-40, anymore; it seems to attract water once it evaporates! not good if you're trying to keep stuff from rusting.

once i got that hitch out, i'd give it a good coat of cosmoline before putting it back in.