falconvan Posted April 30, 2008 Report Posted April 30, 2008 When I was changing my Mopar flattie over to 12 volt, I got an article off the internet and it said if you are using a modern 12 volt aftermarket coil, you do not need a ballast resistor because it is built into the coil. Well, I smoked the coil last night so i'm wondering if I do need one or how I can determine if I need one. It was a new coil and only ran a handful of times. Anyone have any experience with this? Quote
anthonyb Posted April 30, 2008 Report Posted April 30, 2008 I also smoked a 12V coil without a ballast. Put one in line and it's been running fine since then. Don't recall what the part number is though, but it is a Mopar part. Quote
falconvan Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Posted April 30, 2008 Do you have yours between the ignition wire and the coil, or between the coil and the distributor? Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 30, 2008 Report Posted April 30, 2008 When you buy a replacement 12 volt coil you have two choices. Internally resisted or externally resisted. An internally resisted coil does not require a ballast resistor. A non resisted 12 volt coil requires an external ballast resistor. The resistor should be hooked up on the ignition side of the coil. Quote
TodFitch Posted April 30, 2008 Report Posted April 30, 2008 I believe that in the 1960s Chrysler products typically had an external ballast resister and that the starter circuit bypassed the ballast to give 12v to the coil on starting but 6v to the coil while running. I bet Bob Amos would know for sure if my recollection is correct or not. Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 30, 2008 Report Posted April 30, 2008 I believe that in the 1960s Chrysler products typically had an external ballast resister and that the starter circuit bypassed the ballast to give 12v to the coil on starting but 6v to the coil while running.I bet Bob Amos would know for sure if my recollection is correct or not. I believe you are correct on the 60 crashlers using an external ballast. I also by-pass my resistor and shoot a full 12 volts to the coil when the starter is engaged. I do it by using a 4 pole Ford starter soleniod. The 4th pole is only hot when the solenoid coil is pulled in. One issue when doing it the way I did is the coil is powered up anytine the starter is engaged. When using a remote starter button under the hood the engine will run with the key off as long as the remote button is pushed. Quote
falconvan Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Posted April 30, 2008 Good info, gentlemen. Thank you very much! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 30, 2008 Report Posted April 30, 2008 measure the primary winding..if less than 2 ohms..will need a ballast..I think the 3.9 to 4.3 ohms is interal ballast. For the record, the coil has to saturate for the number of cylinders you are running..the total current drain will be trimmed by the resisitor to meet this need...the inline resistor of choice are variable between model application...good rule of thumb here though at the rpm we run etc...the ballast should equal the ohm reading of the coil. Quote
greg g Posted May 4, 2008 Report Posted May 4, 2008 The coil on my 56 engine (first year of 12V neg Ground) is marked as being internally resisted. I remember my mother's 66 swinger had a balast resistor on the /6 but the coil on dad's 318 coronet did not. He was always complaining about having to replace them on the /6. always had a couple in the car and a couple more int he garage. Here is a 66 Fury don't see a br on the firewall. Quote
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