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Posted

I don't know if this is the same level of worthlessness as getting lead additive for fuel, but what kind of oil does everyone run in their car? I have a box of four "detergent free" 30w oil, is that all that can be used or does it matter?

Posted

I use Rotella T 15w40, and so do a lot of other guys here. I think the general consensus here is, no matter what oil you use it is better than what was available in 1947. Detergent oil shouldn't be a problem. I've been using it in my current engine for over 8 years. My father's track record goes back over 40 years with regular 10w40 Havoline. He won't use anything else, and has no mechanical problems to report with antique automobiles.

Posted

I use 10w-30 or 10w-40, usually Valvoline, in my 1933. I like the multi-viscosity oil for fast lubrication on start up and for good pressure after the engine is warmed up. I don't have firm opinions on brands of oil but a friend who is a retired mechanic/shop owner stocked and preferred to use Valvoline so I figure it can't be too bad. I firmly believe that modern oil is far better than what our engines saw back when new. Why not use it.

There are some who think you should use non-detergent on old engines of unknown history or condition to keep from loosening the sludge. I don't believe there is enough detergent in the oil to do that, only enough to keep the new dirt suspended long enough to be changed out at the next oil change. And if you are that worried about sludge in the engine, then drop the pan and pull the valve covers and clean it out. A messy, dirty job. But not all that difficult nor time consuming.

Posted

I would use the straight 30 you have just to have clean oil on startup. Then after a brief period of running I would change it again.

Posted
(snip)

There are some who think you should use non-detergent on old engines of unknown history or condition to keep from loosening the sludge. I don't believe there is enough detergent in the oil to do that, only enough to keep the new dirt suspended long enough to be changed out at the next oil change. (snip)

Oh, it can indeed. My first car was an old Volvo, and unbeknownst to me, the last owner used non-detergent oil. I immediately changed the oil for some fresh detergent oil, and within 3 days the oil pressure dropped due to a clogged filter (no bypass). For about a month I had to change the filter every 3-5 days and top off the oil, until enough of the crud had been captured and disposed of.

Marty

Posted

I use the Rotella-t, along time ago I had a vega 72 burned oil in those days I used the non-detergent oil it was cheap and plentiuful(7-11) I think the one thing we don't want is the foaming of the oil. Someone correct me if I am wrong ;) that's a problem for our engines, most of the folks here rebuild there motors so sluge is not usually a factor. Last year I changed my oil( before rotell-T) and found What I think was water in the oil. I saw something that looked like choclate milk with cream at the very end of the draining process, I have changed the oil one other time since and found nothing in the drain pan. So the final thought is what are your needs, with an old engine 20-w50 with something fresh Rotella-T or non detergent your call

Posted
I use the Rotella-t, along time ago I had a vega 72 burned oil in those days I used the non-detergent oil it was cheap and plentiuful(7-11) I think the one thing we don't want is the foaming of the oil. Someone correct me if I am wrong ;) that's a problem for our engines, most of the folks here rebuild there motors so sluge is not usually a factor. Last year I changed my oil( before rotell-T) and found What I think was water in the oil. I saw something that looked like choclate milk with cream at the very end of the draining process, I have changed the oil one other time since and found nothing in the drain pan. So the final thought is what are your needs, with an old engine 20-w50 with something fresh Rotella-T or non detergent your call

If I remember correctly the milky buildup is from condensation not being properly scavenged or excess condensation in the crankcase from sitting, cold starts, leaks, etc. I knew it as 'contaminated oil'.

Posted

If it were me I would $ell the non detergent oil on the bay and use modern multiviscosity detergent oil. Multiviscosity oils designed for diesel use are said to contain zinc and that is said to be beneficial for our flat tappet engines.

Posted

Phil, what brand of 20 W50 do you use, I am going to go with this ,my engine is a tired one too. I have Wallyworld Diesel 40 in it right now, not a wise move, she burns this oil easily for some reason, never did that much with Rotella T. I think because I have miles, it would be wise to use 20 W 50 oil in my engine.........Fred

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