Jim Shepard Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Ok, I'm going to pull the 230 this weekend and I've got a question. I don't want the tranny and all the manuals list removing the tranny as part of the engine removal. The reason I don't want to remove the tranny is because I'll have to put it back in per the owner of the truck. So, my question is: where does it split? It looks like I'll need to unbolt the flywheel from the crank. Is this correct? If so, how do I do that with the motor still in? With that done, does the motor just slide out of the tranny? If so, how far? Also, this is a pretty greasy motor and I can't see all the bolts holding to the tranny. I can see two on each side. Are there any more? If anyone can post a picture of the backside of one of these motors I'd appreciate it. Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Jim are you getting a motor from someone elses truck? The tranny is only supported by the bellhousing. Without that there will be nothing to hold it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Since this is on the PH side I will guess your are pulling a truck engine. My experience has been with a car but the mechanical conections between the engine and bellhousing are only the bolts conecting the belhousing to the engine. when split the engine will slide off the tranny input shaft leaving the flywheel and clutch assembly attached tot eh flywheel. If the front sheet metal is off the donor vehicle the job will be a lot easier. the engine needs to acheive a very steep angle to clear the radiator support, so one of those levelers for the cherry picker is a must. Pull it up a bit level and them wiggle it forward to release the splined shaft from the clutch friction disc. When that releases it pretty much up angle and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Greg will the engine with the flywheel attached come forward enough for the input shaft of the transmission to come out of the pilot bushing? Seems like that would make it get stuck. You can remove a truck bellhousing over the flywheel and clutch though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Yes, this is a friend's truck. A '55 one-ton. Tha tranny looks like it's bolted to the frame so when separated from the motor its still supported. Greg, you say the motor will just slide off the tranny input shaft. Doesn't the crank have to be unbolted from the flywheel or does it and the clutch assembly come out with the motor? If these are stupid questions, please forgive me... I've never pulled an engine before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kuster13 Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 holding the motor to the bellhousing. The four you mentioned and two more at the top of the bellhousing. You would have to remove the clutch to remove the flywheel to pull the motor without the trans and to do that you would have to remove the trans. I think? Hope that helps. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 The flywheel is bolted to the crank, the clutch assembly is bolted to the flywheel. The bell housing covers the spinning assembly mounte to the frame and mounts the tranny. with the radiator out, the fan off, the engine should come forward far enough to release the input shaft from the pilot bushing and throwout bearing, If there is a concern than the tranny should come out and the bell would then come out with the engine after the rear mounts were disconected from the frame. But on the truck doesn't the clutch/brake pedal assembly mount to the bellhousing??? and if so wouldn;t then need to be dealt with also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 I don't think thats going to work. The engine will only be able to move forward maybe an inch and it will have to go straight forward. Then the flywheel will hit the bellhousing and it will be stuck there. The input shaft runs the entire length of the bellhousing so there is no way its coming apart that way. Disconnect the 4 tranny bolts and pull the bellhousing with the engine. Yes on trucks the pedals come out with the bellhousing. If you remove the floor piece they come right out. Might have to deal with brake lines for the master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 These guys have all mentioned inportant points. There is no way to seperate the bell housing from the engine with the trans attached. You must remove the trans, 4 bolts attache it to the bell housing, first and then pull the engine. Or, if the entire nose has been removed, pull the engine with trans attached and then seperate the trans later. In this picture you can see one of the 4 trans mounting bolts directly below the shift lever/trans cover and behind the pedals. The second (lower) bolt on this side is hiden in this photo, just behind the frame rail. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Crap! This is going to be harder than I thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 18, 2008 Report Share Posted January 18, 2008 Jim do you plan to take the bellhousing or just the engine itself? If you just want the engine support the tranny somehow and pull the engine and bellhousing out as a unit. Pull the bellhousing and stick it back in. You'd have to redo I think 8 bolts-4 to hold the tranny to the bell and 4 more to hold the bell to the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 This truck is a '55 ('C' Series) and the pedals are on the frame, rather than the bellhousing. It looks like I can just unhook the linkage, support the transmission, separate the bellhousing from the transmission and pull it out. Will the flywheel and clutch plate come with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 Yes Great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Hey Jim! Got an update on that engine pull? 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Buuuuttttt, You'd also have to deal with two pedals that protrude through the flooerboards, and that is quite some task, if the cab is still on. If you go that route, let me know and I'll tell you how it can be done. Problem is that the brake pedal cannot slide outboard off of the clutch shaft because the column is in the way. Takes a six foot pry bar on the welded floor pan to get this pedal off, AFTER you have pulled the two bolt-in floor board panels at the front, that surround the two pedals. Lotsa work to pull a motor. JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Buuuuttttt,You'd also have to deal with two pedals that protrude through the flooerboards, and that is quite some task, if the cab is still on. If you go that route, let me know and I'll tell you how it can be done. Problem is that the brake pedal cannot slide outboard off of the clutch shaft because the column is in the way. Takes a six foot pry bar on the welded floor pan to get this pedal off, AFTER you have pulled the two bolt-in floor board panels at the front, that surround the two pedals. Lotsa work to pull a motor. JMHO This was actually quite easy. First, as I said, the truck is a '55 'C' series, not a Pilothouse. That makes a big difference because the pedals are not attached the same way. On the 'C' the pedals are attached to the frame and to the bellhousing via linkage - there is no shaft, per se. I just needed to disconnect the linkage for the clutch. Because this truck also had vacuum-assist brakes, there is no direct connection, linkage or shaft, between the brake pedal and the bellhousing. Everything goes to a vacuum cannister mounted on the fender well. So, after unbolting the bellhousing from the tranny (4 bolts) the motor just lifted right out. Because I had a leveler on my hoist, I didn't need to remove the nose or fenders, just the hood. Once it was out I unbolted the bellhousing from the motor, put it back on the tranny, lowered it back down and bolted it in. Slicker than snot on a doorknob... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 Nice work Jim. So now you're gonna hook it up to the pilothouse tranny as a temp motor while the other is being souped up? Did you score the dual carb set-up? 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 Nice work Jim. So now you're gonna hook it up to the pilothouse tranny as a temp motor while the other is being souped up? Did you score the dual carb set-up?48D My plan is to overhaul the 230 and put it in my B2B. I'd like to score a triple manifold but I think one of those (if they exist) will be really expensive. As an alternative, I'm thinking about having one made out of tubing. At 60 over, cast iron headers and a bump in compression it should move out pretty good. Eventaully, I'd like to find an overdrive unit and put it in. I recently mounted 16" rims and tall tires and that got me about 3-5 mph more top speed. I'm probably doin' about 55mph now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 Last week I lifted out the engine with bell housing and transmission attached. For me this is new territory. I've tried to follow this string but I am stumped on how to disconnect the bell housing from the engine. I removed the transmission easily, but after romoving all the bolts holding the bell housing to the engine they will not seperate more than an inch. I see see the two bolt guides, and underneath I can see the fly whell bolted to the engine shaft. Do I need to unbolt the nuts conecting the fly wheel and then separate them? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 Thei torque convertor musr come out before the bell housing can move back away from the block. This is really a fun operation. There will be eight 9/16-inch nuts and bolts holding the convertor to the flywheel. Problem is you need a very thin wrench - mabye a tappet wrench - I ground an old one down to fit - and then they are torqued to about 150 foot-pounds to get 'em loose. Then the flywheel/covertor will come out, and only then will the bell housing come loose from the block. When this happens, you wil understand why it was necessary - a panel in the bell housing that crosses in front of the convertor and keeps it from movcing backwards. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 There are two dowel pins, one on either side of the block between the two lower bolts. Bolt the bell housing back up tight, then drive the dowel pins back into the bell housing and out of the block. Now unbolt the bell housing again and it should slip up over the top of your flywheel. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 When I'm ready to connect the bellhousing back to the engine what do I do about the dowels? Leave them out. What was their orignial purpose, as a set pin to correctly marry the bellhousing to the engine block? Thanks. O-h-h! I just read Grey Beard's response and that sounds complicated. Maybe I'll leave it alone for now. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 I just removed a bell housing from an engine and the dowels stuck out just enough to properly locate the bell housing to the block, but not so much that it couldn't be removed with the flywheel on. You could play with the pin protrusion to get them to that point, Or you could remove them all together, then once the bell housing is bolted back up, with the bolts loose, knock the dowel pins back in from the front side of the block flange. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 I had to spin the bellhousing around a little, but it came off. There are six bolts holding it on. Two at the top and two on each side, down low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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