1941 D19 gauges

[Ffreeb]

I’m going to replace all of the gauges in my 41 D19 convertible. Does anyone have any tips for doing this job?

[Plymouthy Adams]

define replace.....as in using modern gauges or remove and replace with rebuilt/NOS gauges?   

[Ffreeb]

Replace with NOS.

[soth122003]

I'm guessing just 4 gages. Temp. Oil, fuel and Amp. Of the 4 the Temp gage will be the hardest. The temp gage is one unit from the gage to the engine block. The tube being fairly fragile will have to be handled with care when removing and installing. One sharp bend and poof there goes the gage. The gland nut holding the temp bulb in the block can be tricky too. If the gage is good and looks decent, leave it alone. If it doesn't work and needs to be replaced, make sure the replacement is in good shape and test it before installing. 

 

There are numerous threads on the temp gage. Read them. They will help you understand about the removal and installing procedures. Also ask questions. The other gages are fairly straight forward and pretty easy to replace just read the service manual. Although the manual doesn't get into the heart of removal and replacement of components, It gives a good accounting of how they work and that makes replacement easier to understand. Between all the members of this forum there are about 200-300 years of experience on these old cars so ask for help if you need it.

 

Joe Lee

[Ffreeb]

Joe, thank you for the reply. The temperature gauge is no good, the tube is broken. That’s what started this. The amp gauge doesn’t work and the other 2 are barely rusted. I have bought on eBay, and probably paid too much for, NOS gauges to replace them all. There are switches and cables underneath the gauge cluster and it doesn’t come out twards the driver’s seat. It appears that it has to go twards the firewall. I was hoping someone on here had done it before and could give some pointers to make it go better. I started to take out the speedometer thinking I could reach it through the hole where the speedometer is. I then thought I would ask if someone has done it.

[desoto1939]

One very important point regarding the oil pressure guage.  Mopar used a very special nut with a compression fitting and the threads are 27 pitch. Yes this is correct.

 

When you take out the metal line from the back of the oil guage DO NOT again DO NOT lose this metal line. It is needed to fit inside the oil gage and make a complete seal. These are very hard to find.

 

The rubber flexible rubber hose threads into the end of the metal tube.

 

Just want to give you this FYI. Most people try to replace the special connector and they throw the metal line and the special nut in the trash.

 

Rich hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[soth122003]

Hate to tell you this Ffreeb, But removing a dash is not so simple or easy IMHO. It will probably be easier to pull the front seat and seat track, then lay down a mat and get comfortable. If your older or have infirmaties, it sucks. If you have a kid who likes to help that will make it easier. There really isn't a lot of wiring or cables to get in the way, it just looks like it. Just make sure to label the wires disconnected from the gages. Ask me how I know. lol. Most of your gages will be held in by 2-3 screws or nuts. Once you pull the fuel and ammeter gage the wires will be able to be pushed back out of the way.

 

The temp gage will be the hardest to put in and the oil pressure gage I would loosen the line at the gage then remove the gage and take the line off with more room to see how it connects to the gage. Take it slow and take your time. Once the job is done, you'll see it wasn't that bad. It just looked tough. Best of luck and keep us posted. Oh, and post some pics cause everyone loves pics.

 

Joe Lee

 

 

[Ffreeb]

Thank you Joe! When I laid on my back on the floor and looked up there I thought, I’m not going to like this!

It’s not really much worse than so far. I had the car done except for the interior 45 years ago. We bought the farm I live on in 82 and the car has sat in the barn ever since. I started working on it last spring. It wasn’t set up, but the valves were. Oil was running on the ground as fast as I was putting it in from the torque converter when I tried to fill it. I pulled the engine and transmission, rebuilt the torque converter, did a valve job on the engine and put the engine and transmission back in. I had to replace the armature in the generator to get it charging. I started on the brakes next, all new wheel cylinders, new master cylinder and all new brake lines. Next I replaced the fuel line. That brought me to where I am now.

[andyd]

I have not worked on a 1941 Dodge however I've had my 1940 D15 since 1971 and from what I've seen the gauge cluster is basically the same arrangement .......the whole cluster maybe easier to remove than trying to do each gauge individually and as your temp gauge is buggered anyway then thats one less issue to start........lol.........the cluster is its similar in the way it attaches to the dash will have small nuts(3/8 or 7/16th from memory) holding the cluster to the dash......also check the high beam indicator as that "may" have a globe socket that will need to have the globe socket pulled away from the socket and then the socket undone from the piece that the high beam fitting screws into..........if similar to the 1940 then the gauge cluster has a metal piece that fits between the high beam socket........again I can't be certain if the 41 cluster is held in a similar way to the 1940 but it wouldn't surprise me........I've attached a pic of the 1940 dash cluster that may help to explain why I think it maybe similar........regards from Oz......andyd  

[Ffreeb]

Joe, you asked for pictures. This is when I pulled it out from where it had been sitting for almost 43 years.

[Ffreeb]

Pulling engine 

[Ffreeb]

Rebuilding torque converter 

[Ffreeb]

Grinding valves and seats

[Ffreeb]

Relined shoes, new wheel cylinder and the rivet press I used.

[Ffreeb]

Andyd, thank you for the reply. I think mine is different. Here’s a picture.

[andyd]

Ffreeb.......what I meant was that the general proceedure or way in which the cluster attaches to the dash should be similar.......you've certainly got your work cut out for you.....lol.......whats the rest of the car like rust wise?.........andyd

[Ffreeb]

Andyd. I have a friend who builds street rods and collects 70’s cars. He came to help me bleed the brakes. He kept looking at the body and saying, I can’t believe how good a shape this car is in. The car has been under cover since about 1965 that I know of. There are some small rust holes in the floor, but all in all the car is in good shape. I’ve said for years that my grandkids are going to ride in that car. I got hoodwinked into starting to work on it last spring.

[Ffreeb]

Andyd, I don’t know where I’m going with it, it’s not my plan to restore it. I’ve spent too much money on it already. The car means a lot to me. My dad gave it to me when I was about 15 and I’m 68 now. I will probably be more surprised than anyone else where it ends up.

[Los_Control]

My thoughts are access to the gauges. .... Most vehicles like my truck are very difficult to lay on the floor and get access under the dash.

I find the seats are bolted to a platform, you can remove the seat but the base is welded (brazed) to the floor.

 

I removed my base from the floor. I now have access to lay on the floor and work under the dash.

I used a grinder and a cut off wheel to remove the base.

Then I rebuilt the base and it bolts to the floor using 16 grade 5 bolts. And the seat bolts to it .... so I can still remove it in the future.

 

I may be missing your question here .... I think what you really want is access to your work, removing the factory base is all I know.

I'm in the process now of re-wiring my truck .... I'm so happy I removed and modified the seat base.