rcl700 Posted September 28 Report Posted September 28 I'm lost on what bulbs to order for 48' plymouth. I'm stock 6v pos ground. I'm re-wiring and plan to wire the back and fron side markers as duel wire sockets ro add brake and turn to the outside corners. What bulbs are needed? Standard or led. Also, are there 6v led bulbs the will fit the dash bulbs? If so what numer should I be looking for? Quote
Mark D Posted September 28 Report Posted September 28 (edited) Several companies selling these online and eBay. Just make sure you order LED marker light for the front as well as rear. And don’t forget to order the correct positive ground flasher. I just ordered mine from LEDLIGHT.com Edited September 28 by Mark D Quote
Ivan_B Posted September 28 Report Posted September 28 Here are the bulbs I used for a 1940. Just look for the brightest LED that will fit the socket Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted September 28 Report Posted September 28 My P15 is 6v negative ground but here is the positive ground version of the flasher I use, it works perfectly and is compatible with either filement or LED bulbs, even if used in combination:  https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-6-volt-led-3-prong-120-watt-positive-chassis.aspx  Here are the LEDs I use for tail/brake light, they will also work for the front signals if you intend to use dual circuits. Order red for the tail lights and warm white if you want to retain the original color for the front signals.  https://www.ledlight.com/ba15d-1158-6-volt-60-smd-5730-dual-filament-reduced-profile.aspx   Quote
rcl700 Posted September 29 Author Report Posted September 29 (edited) Perfect, thank you Sam. What did you do for your trunk lamp?  I was thinking of powering it as a running lamp. If I want to run as brake I think I have to run an additional wire from the brake switch back to avoid the turn signals making it flash. Edited September 29 by rcl700 Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted September 29 Report Posted September 29 10 hours ago, rcl700 said: Perfect, thank you Sam. What did you do for your trunk lamp?  I was thinking of powering it as a running lamp. If I want to run as brake I think I have to run an additional wire from the brake switch back to avoid the turn signals making it flash.  https://www.ledlight.com/g18-s25-6-12v-non-polarity.aspx  Yes, you will need a brake light feed to the trunk light if you want if for brakes. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 29 Report Posted September 29 I recommend that the trunk lamp continue solely as a brake light for the added safety in today's age of distracted drivers. Mine is not only operative, but with a higher lumen LED lamp to help overcome the glass lens as it does subdue the glow a bit. I also went LED so to use the added effect of the warning sequencer added to further catch the eye of the following motorist. Some question the legality of these, while on a cycle these are recommended, it is also extended by many to read useable for the older antique vehicles for added protection.  Kinda in line with the blue dots for safety. Ask you own locals. Mine is set up to plug and play so they will snap in or out in just a couple seconds polarity never a question fitting/refitting if you find you offending a local ordnance when traveling. Have this feature on two of my vehicles now and get compliments on the added safety.  Quote
Sniper Posted September 29 Report Posted September 29 My Philosophy on jurisdictions that have different requirements than the one my car is registered in is that I don't worry about it. I'm not subject to their requirements. It's not like I put a second plate on my car when I go to a state that requires two plates I'm not registered in that state. Well actually I am Texas requires two plates but you get the point Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 29 Report Posted September 29 technically you are correct, and there is (I read of this and never made a copy) a 50 state reciprocity agreement that the registration rules in one state are to be honored in all other states as the state of registration takes precedence.  HOWEVER, you have many rogue states with Virginia being the worse for stopping transient drivers and subjecting them to their rules and regulations. Once settled this is legal in your registered state, they are to drop the stop so to speak. It is a sticky wicket and one you may or may not win in litigation these days.  I have legal documentation I carry that states it is legal in my state for blue dots and YOM tags....I carry a copy of this law with my car's documents. I have never been bothered by any LEO at this time....and make provisions for such stop to eliminate an onsite whizzing contest.  Does not take much to trigger some LEO's buttons to over react.  Quote
rcl700 Posted September 29 Author Report Posted September 29 Another question about lighting. If I run relays to power the headlights and fog lamps connected directly to the battery will this mess with the ammeter? The battery is normally on one side of the guage and accessories (draw and charge) on the other side.   Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 29 Report Posted September 29 (edited) as long as you remember to turn them off when parked, they do not need be switched. But if you power the relays by the switch when lighting direct from the battery..they will default off with ign. off. Edited September 29 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
rcl700 Posted September 29 Author Report Posted September 29 2 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: as long as you remember to turn them off when parked, they do not need be switched. But if you power the relays by the switch when lighting direct from the battery..they will default off with ign. off. The plan is relay switched power will come from ignition source, the the relay supply will be directly from battery. Is the ammeter able to read correctly if the lighting power comes from battery ( bypass amm pass-through) and switch power comes from ign power? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 29 Report Posted September 29 simple, if the power does not pass through the meter, the meter cannot read it and report the drain....be sure to fuse your battery to source input on the relay appropriately for the current that will be used.  Quote
rcl700 Posted November 23 Author Report Posted November 23 (edited) On 9/28/2024 at 7:47 PM, Sam Buchanan said: My P15 is 6v negative ground but here is the positive ground version of the flasher I use, it works perfectly and is compatible with either filement or LED bulbs, even if used in combination:  https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-6-volt-led-3-prong-120-watt-positive-chassis.aspx  Here are the LEDs I use for tail/brake light, they will also work for the front signals if you intend to use dual circuits. Order red for the tail lights and warm white if you want to retain the original color for the front signals.  https://www.ledlight.com/ba15d-1158-6-volt-60-smd-5730-dual-filament-reduced-profile.aspx   Sam, Did you do any of your dash lights with led? I'm looking to order the tail lights you recommend. I'd like to get the bulds for the guage cluster at the same time to save on shipping a second order but I can figure out what buld (led 6v) fits this application. Edited November 23 by rcl700 Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted November 24 Report Posted November 24 6 hours ago, rcl700 said: Sam, Did you do any of your dash lights with led? I'm looking to order the tail lights you recommend. I'd like to get the bulds for the guage cluster at the same time to save on shipping a second order but I can figure out what buld (led 6v) fits this application.  I haven't researched LEDs for the dash but I did install microscope bulbs which have twice the candlepower as the original bulb.....big improvement. Details in these two threads:  https://p15-d24.com/topic/53657-dash-lights-question/  https://p15-d24.com/topic/59913-microscope-bulbs-for-dash-lights/  The vendor:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1946-1947-1948-extra-bright-tail-light-bulb-63-replacement-6-volt-63/161410757417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649    There may be excellent 6v LED options, if you find some please keep us advised. Quote
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