Swapping an A833 OD into a 1946 WD-15

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

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[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking
added pics

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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[lostviking]

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[John-T-53]

21 hours ago, lostviking said:

I've decided to pull the transmission again. I don't like that it doesn't fit flush to the adapter plate. The top two flathead screws sit a bit proud of the plate. I'm going to remove the transmission so that I can take the adapter back off, and fix that. I should have done this before I started, I forgot.

 

Once I finally get this job all done, I'm going to copy information and picture to the end of the thread, so you can see what is needed in one nice linear thread. I'll pop back into the first post to tell you where that begins.

 

Did the flathead screws come with the adapter? If they are the source of the non-flush condition you should be able to tell right away by placing a straightedge over the plate/screw heads. Are they sitting tight in their countersunk holes in the plate? Bottomed out perhaps? 

 

RE: the transmission case to bellhousing bolts - good to see that you are getting new bolts. Washers are designed to spread load or prevent loosening, not compensate for excess length. Check the holes for debris too. You can get new SAE bolts at your local hardware store. The bolt with nut through the plate should also have a few exposed threads beyond the nut. I would probably just use grade 8 lock washers only, flat washers not usually required for mounting a transmission. 

 

I would also recommend first installing the transmission without clutch in place so that you can observe the input shaft in relation to the flywheel and pilot bushing, to make sure that the shaft is not bottoming out in the pilot hole and that it has proper support by the bushing. 

 

Good luck!

 

 

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[John-T-53]

If the bolts and adapter plate came from the same source, why don't they "fit"?

 

If this 833 swap has been done many times, we sure could use some more documentation on it. So in that regard, thanks. I look forward to seeing the finished product. 

Edited September 9 by John-T-53

[BobK]

On 9/8/2024 at 3:09 PM, John-T-53 said:

 

 

I would also recommend first installing the transmission without clutch in place so that you can observe the input shaft in relation to the flywheel and pilot bushing, to make sure that the shaft is not bottoming out in the pilot hole and that it has proper support by the bushing. 

 

Good luck!

 

 

Great advice. I thought I read some place that you may have to shorten the input shaft a bit ???  Also use a clutch alignment tool to make sure things are in line. It's easy to screw things up when trying to muscle those heavy A833 into place. It should slide in and be flush to the bell before putting a bolt in. 

 

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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[lostviking]

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[Sniper]

One thing I learned a long time ago when you're installing a manual transmission After a clutch job The easiest way to get things to line up and slide in Is to get that transmission and as far as you can and once it binds up have somebody step on the clutch to release the disc That will allow you to shove the transmission the rest of the way in without any binding. There are two types of car 833's at least in regards to length. The a body one which is shorter and the b-body/ebody ones that are the same length as a truck. The short one is also used by the F body and M body cars. If you happen to come across the ultra rare four-speed C body it's the longer one.

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking
cropped image. edited center hole

[ggdad1951]

On 9/17/2024 at 12:44 PM, lostviking said:

This is the design I came up with earlier. It only fits the bell housing in my 46 WD15 (and others with the exact same bell). I'm going to have one made and try it.

 

EDIT: This big center hole should be 5.120 for the OD, I'm making mine 5.125.

 

 

 

some tight tols on the .484 dim...    Break out the GD&T

 

[lostviking]

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Edited October 6 by lostviking

[lostviking]

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[QEC]

On 9/17/2024 at 10:44 AM, lostviking said:

This is the design I came up with earlier. It only fits the bell housing in my 46 WD15 (and others with the exact same bell). I'm going to have one made and try it.

Did you actually put the bell in a CNC mill and map the threaded holes? Although it has been a few decades since I sat in my mechanical engineering classes I sincerely doubt that industry has started using threaded holes for alignment and, I know that it wasn't done in the 40's. 

[Sniper]

What aligns the transmission to the bellhousing is the input bearing retainer outer diameter and the corresponding hole in the Bell housing.