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Stuck distributor '49 Plymouth P-18


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Hi everyone!

Does anybody have any tips on freeing up a stuck distributor? Need to adjust timing after timing chain replacement and it's stuck fast! Thank you!

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  1. Once the hold down bolt is out, the only thing holding in is gravity and force of habit.  Most had a cork gasket in between the distributor and block.  Most of them are long gone, some might have a new o ring as a substitute neither of which should resist removal very heartedly.  Try tapping the body while trying to rotate it by gently turning the vacuum canister.  A liberal amount of some sort of penentrating goop being assumed before hand.  Do you have one of those as seen on TV rubber strap wrenches that were kinda like an oil filter wrench.   If so that may give you some extra twist.  Couple whacks with a rubber mallet could also be effective. Have you attacked it from below?  Tapping upward with a long socket extension or similar?
Edited by greg g
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Thanks! Apart from spraying it down with some PB Blaster, I haven't tried too hard yet. All I know is it's stuck! It must have been moved at one time as the distributor is adjusted to full advance, probably because the timing chain and sprockets were so worn. I want to get it back to center before really trying to start the engine.

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One other thing worth mentioning is the tang at the bottom end of the distributor is a flat blade.  So when you do free it up, note the position of the firing surface of the rotor....like the hour on a clock face.  At top dead center on cylinder 1, the rotor should be at the 7 o'clock position.  If you re-install 180 degrees out, the engine won't run.  With new timing chain you want to make sure everything is in proper order.

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When you get it off, you will find a bolt which gives you more adjustment through another slowed part of the hold down plate. That should be centered assuming every thing is in good condition.

 

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I always thought a simple visual inspection of the timing chain .... with the distributor cap off rotate engine by hand until the rotor moves.

Then rotate the engine in opposite direction and monitor how far you move the crank pulley before the rotor moves.

 

If the pulley moves 1/2" ... 3/4" is probably a very good chain, you need some slack in a chain.

If you are moving that pulley 2" .... your chain is stretched and time to consider replacing it ;)

 

I'm sure the distributor not moving is probably some corrosion between the 2 dissimilar metals of the distributor body & cast iron block.

Some sort of soft hammer and some soft tapping and lots of oil is required.

 

 

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I rescued a distributor from a salvage yard last year that was firmly encrusted in the well and would not come out. As mentioned the use of lubricant in significant quantities is mandatory and if you are able let it soak in overnight to help the cause that is even better. The final answer in my situation was a 15" long piece of 1" X 1" spruce and repeated light tapping of the wood from under the car pushing the distributor up. I emphasize light tapping as I used the base of the hold down clips to secure the wood from sliding out of place and by tapping one side then the other after about 5 minutes it popped right out.  I like the idea of coming from the bottom if you have your oil pump out as that has much of the same effect. Good luck. Dave

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I recently pully one for from a 55 Plymouth in a salvage yard.  I tapped with the wooden end of a small hammer, then wiggled it back and forth while pulling up at the same time.  It came out after resisting some.

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When I was dealing with stuck valves I learned that no penetrating oil worked worth a darn.  Some old timer told me to try brake fluid, it worked.  Might help here?

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  • Solution

Thank you everybody for your input! I got the distributor starting to turn in the block this morning after soaking and tapping on it for about a week. It's not out yet but at least it's starting to free up! Thanks again

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