D35 Torpedo Posted March 30 Report Share Posted March 30 Near the end of last season, the car developed an oil leak. It got so bad, when I stopped with the engine running, it would leave a fair sized puddle in no time. So before I put it on the road this summer, I wanted to fix the issues. I pulled the trans, clutch and flywheel today and found some carnage. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do. Nothings open today, so I cant call around. The good news is, it doesn't look like the rear main. Opinions and solutions are welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 30 Author Report Share Posted March 30 (edited) Let me add, I'm not seeing much of a pilot bushing if any. I remember hearing stuff flying around in the bell housing so this explains it. The one spring was lodged in the pressure plate. Also, there is no oil on the back of the flywheel. Edited March 30 by D35 Torpedo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted March 30 Report Share Posted March 30 This does look like the real crank seal leak. And you do need a new clutch, it's a relatively common issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 More pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9 foot box Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 Andy B. has the best price. It looks like a clutch plate for fluid drive. Could be why most of the springs broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 1 hour ago, 9 foot box said: Andy B. has the best price. It looks like a clutch plate for fluid drive. Could be why most of the springs broke. I have a spare clutch that came off another engine (Both engines are 25") and it's also nine and a quarter. Both cars did not have a fluid drive. The flywheel does have another set of holes, presumeably for a 10" clutch. So, I'm thinking I can upgrade it. Andy B stuff is hit and miss. I'm guessing Borg & Beck is a factory part, or old aftermarket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9 foot box Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 Show a picture of your other clutch plate. It shouldn’t have the spring steel supports, like the one that broke. If you go to the web site, you can see the difference. I didn’t know that there was different clutch plates for Dodge until your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 1 hour ago, 9 foot box said: Show a picture of your other clutch plate. It shouldn’t have the spring steel supports, like the one that broke. If you go to the web site, you can see the difference. I didn’t know that there was different clutch plates for Dodge until your post. It is a Canadian car...might be different...here is a pic of the other clutch disk. Not sure what spring steel support you're talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 I'm looking on AB and his site sucks...there is virtually no descriptions and no kits. Id have to piece it together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 (edited) Another thing to note, i always had an issue with the throwout bearings rubbing while the pedal wasnt depressed. Does anyone have a digram of how the return spring is oriented? I think im missing it. Edited March 31 by D35 Torpedo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 Has anyone ordered from DCM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 19 hours ago, Ivan_B said: This does look like the real crank seal leak. And you do need a new clutch, it's a relatively common issue Can you explain your reasoning??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 What looks like possibly fluid on the pan lip may be gasket sealer. I think that's what Ivan is referring to. A swipe with a finger against the pan and/or back of the crank flange and coming up dry will confirm it. If you're sure it's engine oil leaking you'll have to look for somewhere else. Idling, it may be coming from the draft tube or tappet cover gasket. Trans oil you should be able to confirm by observation, the same as another poster did just recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpollo Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 your second disc looks useable. Oil is coming from somewhere other than the rear seal. Could it be from the gallery plug ? re mount the flywheel and run the engine. Also, pull the front bearing retainer from the trans and make sure the drain back hole is not blocked by the gasket. you are welcome to contact me via email, anytime. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 (edited) Thanks Dave! I think I might be dealing with a few leaks. One from the trans and the other from the oil pressure gauge flex hose. To top it off, the block heater I purchased last winter is leaking from the electrical connector...junk! Edit sorry for the upsidedown pics Edited March 31 by D35 Torpedo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 31 Author Report Share Posted March 31 Transmission casting seems to be busted out in that bind hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted March 31 Report Share Posted March 31 5 hours ago, D35 Torpedo said: Can you explain your reasoning??? It looks like you have a drop of oil (or something) below the crank flange, so I suspect that the seal is leaking a little. This could be not the source of your massive oil leak, though, but it's a leak alright. Since you have the gearbox out, it could be a good time for a new seal. If you are dealing with multiple leaks, you might benefit from using one of those UV dyes for the engine oil. As for the clutch disk, I've just seen them broken springs, before, on relatively good-looking (but antiquated) clutches. Probably just the metal fatigue. But do make sure that you get the correct replacement for your specific car Do you have the repair manual for your car? This is usually helpful for checking the diagrams for missing/incorrectly installed parts, etc. If you have not already seen it, here is the Chrysler clutch troubleshooting video from 1948, which could be applicable: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerJon Posted April 1 Report Share Posted April 1 Hole in shift rail bore is normal. Was there the gasket between the transmission and the bellhousing? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted April 1 Author Report Share Posted April 1 8 minutes ago, FarmerJon said: Hole in shift rail bore is normal. Was there the gasket between the transmission and the bellhousing? Nope. Ill make one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted April 1 Author Report Share Posted April 1 1 hour ago, Ivan_B said: It looks like you have a drop of oil (or something) below the crank flange, so I suspect that the seal is leaking a little. This could be not the source of your massive oil leak, though, but it's a leak alright. Since you have the gearbox out, it could be a good time for a new seal. If you are dealing with multiple leaks, you might benefit from using one of those UV dyes for the engine oil. As for the clutch disk, I've just seen them broken springs, before, on relatively good-looking (but antiquated) clutches. Probably just the metal fatigue. But do make sure that you get the correct replacement for your specific car Do you have the repair manual for your car? This is usually helpful for checking the diagrams for missing/incorrectly installed parts, etc. If you have not already seen it, here is the Chrysler clutch troubleshooting video from 1948, which could be applicable: I have a parts book. Just been to busy to go through it. I think the spring ive seen in other posts doesnt exist on my model. I did find the clutch fork pivot ball retainer spring was bent and loose on the rivets. So maybe the return spring wasnt able to properly pull the bearing back. The engine only has one season on it as far as i know, so about 6k miles. I'm not keen on cracking into the rear main seal. I think ill do as Dave suggested and run it with only the flywheel and just observe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazyK Posted April 1 Report Share Posted April 1 valve cover leak would not be out of the question. oil leaks out of the valve cover runs down the oil pan rail to the rear of the engine and drips off the fly wheel cover leaving one to think the leak is coming from the back of the engine. reminds me I need to change the valve cover gaskets as I had a slight before I parked it for the winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted April 1 Report Share Posted April 1 Virtually all leaks are "coming" from the back of the engine, eventually 🤣 I am currently anticipating to get my own leaks fixed, as well, since I am noticing some oil loss. The head is alright, bone dry all the way around. But below the manifolds level, things start getting wet. I'll probably start by replacing all of the seals/gaskets on both sides and see how that works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted April 2 Author Report Share Posted April 2 Update. I had a new oil pressure gauge line made up to replace the sacked out original. I also fixed the coolant leak. While i was in there i replaced the thermostat, the original was stuck open. I then put the flywheel on and ran it till she got plenty hot. Didn't leak a drop! So, in the interest of cost and time, I threw my spare, used clutch on, including a good pilot bearing. Put the trans and D-shaft in, fixed an exhaust hanger and on the ground it goes. Thanks to those who gave me advice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan_B Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 Did not machine the flywheel, I assume? I've had a bad shop replace the clutch in my (modern) car like that, once. When I asked them, what the hell, they told me it was still good... It was hot. A couple days after, the new clutch started showing the same clutch chatter as the old one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted April 3 Author Report Share Posted April 3 (edited) 12 hours ago, Ivan_B said: Did not machine the flywheel, I assume? I've had a bad shop replace the clutch in my (modern) car like that, once. When I asked them, what the hell, they told me it was still good... It was hot. A couple days after, the new clutch started showing the same clutch chatter as the old one Yea, I would normally, but this is a used clutch. The pressure plate still had fresh machining marks and the flywheel wasnt full of hot spots. The old clutch wasn't very old at all. Edited April 3 by D35 Torpedo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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