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P15 transmission removal?


Go to solution Solved by Sam Buchanan,

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Posted

I'm attempting to pull the trans on my 48' I saw a video that Kieth posted where he made guide pins by getting log bolts and cutting the head off. I attempted this but I'm having trouble with the top left bolt threading in. The angle the bolt needs to be seems to be blocked by the shift casting. Has a anyone done this on one these transmission types? 

Am I missing something? 

Any and all help appreciated. Do I need the pins? 

 

I'm just learning ?

20231223_123432.jpg

Posted
40 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

I'm attempting to pull the trans on my 48' I saw a video that Kieth posted where he made guide pins by getting log bolts and cutting the head off. I attempted this but I'm having trouble with the top left bolt threading in. The angle the bolt needs to be seems to be blocked by the shift casting. Has a anyone done this on one these transmission types? 

Am I missing something? 

Any and all help appreciated. Do I need the pins? 

 

I'm just learning ?

20231223_123432.jpg

Is that a crack in the bellhousing where the threaded hole is for that bolt or is it just grease/dirt buildup?

Also, after you cut the bolt (like Sniper said), you may need to jack up the transmission (slightly) in order to get the bolt and the hole lined up.

  • Solution
Posted (edited)

Modify the pin lengths to get them to fit. Here is what I use for my P15. Flats are ground on the ends so you can use a wrench to insert/remove the pins.

 

 

transmission-8.jpg.1132afb0573d888a282e908af438f62a.jpg

 

I do this job single-handed mostly from inside the car. Here is the very crude cradle I made out of scrap so the tranny can be strapped to the floor jack. The various pieces are assembled so the trans will balance on the jack in spite of the irregular shape of the housing. The bolts are removed, guide pins inserted, tranny strapped to the cradle, then the transmission is carefully slide backwards keeping everything straight so the input shaft doesn't damage the clutch disk. Once clear, the jack is lowered and the trans pulled out from under the car. Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

image.jpeg.0cb4d6ecf1c8a2901a2ffddb1364531a.jpeg

 

You need jack stands with which you can trust your life. Here are mine, they are tall enough for the transmission job.

 

work-stand-1.thumb.jpg.4d598340b51888ff937ba886c50d8010.jpg

Edited by Sam Buchanan
Posted

In my experience, the guide bolts were for installing the trannie.  We always just got under it on a creeper, pulled it back, and set it down on your stomach, then out from under the car.  (Going back in, it's handy to have a "stabbing shaft" from an old transmission to get the clutch lined up first, then the guide bolts should allow for getting it all the way in straight w/o knocking the clutch disk out of place.)

Posted

Shorten the bolt as suggested, or use another hole.   The guides do not have to be in the top holes.  

 

As Sam suggested, flats ground on the studs help with removal.   I put a screwdriver slot in the end also.  Can be done with a hacksaw, but I like my die grinder with an .040 cutoff wheel better.  

 

BTW, those .040 cutoff wheels from Harbor Freight are one of their better products.   Long lasting and fast cutting at way less than the name brands.

Posted

The three holes in my photo are the only ones that work on my P15. The bottom left hole has so little clearance that tightening the nut can be tedious, not enough room to use a pin. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Modify the pin lengths to get them to fit. Here is what I use for my P15. Flats are ground on the ends so you can use a wrench to insert/remove the pins.

 

 

transmission-8.jpg.1132afb0573d888a282e908af438f62a.jpg

 

I do this job single-handed mostly from inside the car. Here is the very crude cradle I made out of scrap so the tranny can be strapped to the floor jack. The various pieces are assembled so the trans will balance on the jack in spite of the irregular shape of the housing. The bolts are removed, guide pins inserted, tranny strapped to the cradle, then the transmission is carefully slide backwards keeping everything straight so the input shaft doesn't damage the clutch disk. Once clear, the jack is lowered and the trans pulled out from under the car. Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

image.jpeg.0cb4d6ecf1c8a2901a2ffddb1364531a.jpeg

 

You need jack stands with which you can trust your life. Here are mine, they are tall enough for the transmission job.

 

work-stand-1.thumb.jpg.4d598340b51888ff937ba886c50d8010.jpg

I'll grab another shorter bolt an give it a go. Thanks for the photos, they really help. 

Posted
Just now, rcl700 said:

I'll grab another shorter bolt an give it a go. Thanks for the photos, they really help. 

Just cut off the one you have. ?

Posted (edited)

Two is probably fine, I get a bit OCD sometimes. But nothing wrong with using three pins, whatever you need to get the job done.  
 

Edited by Sam Buchanan
  • Thanks 1
Posted
59 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Two is probably fine, I get a bit OCD sometimes. But nothing wrong with using three pins, whatever you need to get the job done.  
 

Mission accomplished. 

Thank for your help guys

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  • Like 3

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