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1953 dodge B4-HAJ52 QUESTIONS


Go to solution Solved by JKochis82,

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Posted
13 hours ago, Ray J. said:

T-STAT question. Am I assuming correctly that the rubber goes in the housing groove, t-stst sits on it and gasket goes between bottom of t-stat and head?...

 

from the Factory Parts Manual:

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Posted

Thanks for the reply. My book shows the same as Mr. Neal's post.

Ray j.

Posted

I finally quit agonizing over the t-stat and installed it.

Today I wired my old distributor to the HEI module and will test later this week.

Also had some exhaust pipe made up and will install it tomorrow. Working on getting it ready to fire up.

Ray j.

2024-11-09 thermostat in.JPG

2024-11-11 new exhaust.JPG

2024-11-11 HEI wired to old distributor.JPG

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Been busy and working late and to tired to post. Exhaust is in, back of cab and floor are welded up, primed and seam sealed. holes where gas filler  went through the cab and where it went through the floor are welded up, ground down and seam sealed. Bed mounts are made but not installed. Pilot bushing is replaced and clutch install is next week.

Today is wiring up the brake, tail, turn signal and license light along with gas tank sending unit wire.

Ray j.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Looks good.  One thing you can do to improve the welds is to clean all the paint/rust off the weld area about 1" away from where the weld will be.   Reduces the chances of porosity getting in the weld joint.

Posted

Was in a hurry. It will be cleaned before I weld it all up.

Pulled al the wire in for bed and gas tank and fuel pump.

Ray J.

Posted

Boy this brings back some memories!

Posted

Hello MBF, what I am doing on in a hurry?

This and some more wire pulling is all I had time for.

Ray J.

2024-11-27 front part of floor cleaned.JPG

2024-11-27 front part of floor primed.JPG

Posted

I’ve got a bunch of photos of the engine rebuild and under hood work Imdid on my B2JA almost 2 yrs ago.  Having problems doing an upload on them.

Posted

I had the same problem. I loaded my pix from my phone to my PC and used Paint to resize so they are below the 3MB in size that P15-D24 website has set as the limit in size. Then use "choose files" and upload.

Took every day off since Thanksgiving. Back at it tomorrow.

Ray J.

Posted

To be fair, I find it easier to go into the camera and lower the resolution settings.

Then they just work in the future when you up load them.

 

The camera by default sets the camera to the highest resolution for the best quality and bragging rights.

The pictures come out huge and take massive real estate space.

If you lower the resolution, they look just as good and use less space.

Posted

I wish my new phone would let me make changes. EVERYTIME I change a setting it changes from 1 to 3 other settings.

T-Mobile can change things for me without problems but a 30 mile round trip is not worth it for me.

Ray J.

Posted

My samesung has android op.sys, and I can go to the picture gallery, tap on a picture to view, hit the pencil icon to edit the picture, and there's a 3dot menu at the upper right that pops up that when tapped, gives me the option to resize... once I choose a lower resolution, I can save as a copy any changes...if I want to undo these changes, the edit function can be tapped and the option to revert to original is available if I accidentally save the edited picture instead of saving the changes as a copy.  Once I figured this out, I could post pics directly from my phone or tablet without having to transfer to my laptop for editing and posting...this is a nice time-saving feature when my laptop is several counties away :cool:

Posted

Mine is a Samsung Galaxy S15. I like the way I do it so I can save all the pictures and the ones I do not post to my progress folder.

Old coot things, stick in the mud and bone head.

All wiring to bed is done.

Ray J.

Posted

Mine is an Iphone-I went into the settings-gotta look around more-didn't find anything like you folks are recommending.

 

Posted

Unfortunately Apple doesn't seem to have a setting available to adjust photo file size. You would need a 3rd party app, like to resize them after the fact. Its a PITA. Another way would be to email them to yourself from the phone. Then it will ask you which file size you would like to send. That's another way to downsize the files from an Apple phone. 

Posted

I worked on computers since my first one in 1963 on my first nuke sub in the Navy. I started working on PC's in 1987 and ended my career in large networks. Cell phones are much harder for me than networks ever were.

Ray J.

Posted
55 minutes ago, Ray J. said:

I worked on computers since my first one in 1963 on my first nuke sub in the Navy. I started working on PC's in 1987 and ended my career in large networks. Cell phones are much harder for me than networks ever were.

Ray J.

I hear you, my computer experience goes back to the early 70s and my iphone is a puzzle sometimes.   so much info and options available on such a little screen, buried in several layers/menus and with icons that are not always logical.

 

Kinda like the infotainment center on new cars, is the car with squiggly lines an antilock brake issue, or ice warning, or stability software/hardware failure?   Could be either (or none) depending on the vintage and maker of the car.

Posted

You are so right about menus and icons. What happened to words?

Delete, text, and send. Even with old eyes I could cypher the words.

Ray J.

Posted

Question. Where can I buy u-joints that do not cost an arm and a leg?

Yesterday I finally installed the new clutch disc and pressure plate.

Tried to install the tranny but need to reposition floor jack from the side to straight on with the tranny so it will move forward and back instead of sideways.

Too cold to work today and that tranny wore me to a nub.

Ray J.

2024-12-09 ready to install.jpg

2024-12-09 trying to install tranny.jpg

Posted

The 4 speed in my C1D was a real booger to get back in.  Had to pull it a second time to make a spacer for the throwout bearing sleeve, as I believe someone replaced it with a shorter one back in the past.  The NP420 is such an odd shape that it would not stay cleanly in place on the trans jack, so I made a sliding trans lifting/aligning brace that used threaded rods (4) long enough to reach from ground level if needed.  Heavy unit too.

The brace rode on 4 rigid wheels that ran up the sides of the floor pan opening.  Once I got the angle and height correct, I could slide it right in and out of the bellhousing with no issue.

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Posted

Thanks Rustyzman for the advice and pictures. I like it when people show ingenuity. I have a 3 foot piece of all-thread and am going to cut it up to make sliders for the lower 2 bolts as I am using the top 2 bolt ears on the tranny to lift it. I think getting the throw out bearing and collar on may be a challenge.

Thanks again.

Ray J.

Posted

Yeah, it is a challenge for sure.  I have done many, many clutches on my back and on lifts and this one was the most challenging.  Other smaller 3 speeds from the era are usually a piece of cake, but these bigger ones present some difficulties.  I even machined down a new input shaft and made it into a clutch alignment tool, so the alignment of the disc was spot on.  Still was a booger.

 

I suspended the throwout bearing in place on the release cross shaft with the return spring and got it aligned on the front bearing retainer through the belly pan area.  I also used the genuine SACHS clutch spline grease on the splines and the bearing retainer surface and pivot pads.  I used to use that at work with very good success.

 

I used extra long bolts to help draw in the trans and made several thicknesses of sleeves to swap out as the bolts would bottom out.  Normally I never draw in a trans with bolts, and get it in place flush by hand first, but this one was not having any of that.  I like your allthread idea, it would be a much more practical method.

 

Once I made the throwout bearing release collar spacer, my freeplay adjustment was no longer at the end of the threads of the turnbuckle and the bellcrank was not hitting the frame crossmember.  Works nice and smooth now, with good engagement spacing from the floor.  

 

Ok, No more of my hijacking your thread! 😁

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Posted

There are some very clever and talented people on this forum.  Not to add to trying to divert the thread-this brings back memories of my project 2 yrs ago.  I rebuilt the 251 in my 49 B2JA and while it was out sent my clutch out to have it overhauled early on in the project.  It wasn't giving me any problems, but I was 70 at the time so to avoid a future teardown I sent it out.  Had the flywheel cut to add to all the machine work being done right to only have to do this once.  Got everything back together and running and the newly redone clutch slipped.  This truck has the heavy 5 spd in it so pulling it apart again wasn't going to be a picnic this time either.  Pulled the clutch sent pics to the remanufacturer and he said the company had been sold but to send it back.   Turns out when they did the overhaul process they only put half of the springs in the pressure plate so it didn't have much clamping action.  I pointed this out to them after taking pictures of their overhauled PP and an original I had out of a parts truck.  Long story short-its together and running fine, but doing stuff twice is aggravating to say the least-especially with such a heavy trans.  Thank God a friend was able to lend me a commercial trans jack.

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