Merle Coggins Posted October 14 Report Share Posted October 14 It's best to leave the 4 connecting bolts slightly loose as you mount the manifolds to the block. Then snug up the mounting nuts to ensure that the manifolds are flat to the block, then come back and tighten the connecting bolts before final torque of the nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted October 14 Report Share Posted October 14 additional information - water distribution tube installation tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 14 Author Report Share Posted October 14 (edited) Hello 9 foot box, That is my plan. Exhaust valves need all the cooling they can get. I see you have some Plymouth coupes. Like them much better than Ford an Chevy of that era. Best Ray J. Edited October 14 by Ray J. left out name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 14 Author Report Share Posted October 14 Thanks Merle. I decided to mate the two manifolds and get the facing trued up before installation. I bought big block Mopar studs (much cheaper) and need to get the 4 special nuts for the ends. Best Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 14 Author Report Share Posted October 14 Thanks Mr. Neal for the WDT info. That is my plan. I am headed to the shop now to install flywheel and clutch. Best Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 16 Author Report Share Posted October 16 Yesterday I finished up the flywheel install and cut off the end of the frame. Probably will have to cut off a little more to get the bumper to fit. Drill got caught while drilling a large hole and cranked my thumb around pretty good. Taking it easy today. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 17 Author Report Share Posted October 17 Thermostat question. Will what is shown in the picture work ? Does not look like what the manual shows. Thanks Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47 1.5 ton Posted October 17 Report Share Posted October 17 I am curious what comments come back on this. I used the cheap style like you have pictured and drilled a hole through it. When I cleaned the system there was no thermostat from the PO. I looked for the heavy duty ones like the book shows and didn’t have much luck but had the same issue on some of my older tractors. Without giving much thought, I used what Napa called heavy duty (did boil to see if it worked). I am now rethinking as these are LOW pressure systems and I have a freeze plug leaking when it gets hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 17 Author Report Share Posted October 17 I am using a Motorad 400580. I am also curious as to what others have used successfully. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9 foot box Posted October 18 Report Share Posted October 18 I have a Stant 13928 in my 47. Or you can use a NAPA THM155 or Gates 33028. They are 180 degree, use thread sealant on the two bolts. The thermostat that you have could be used on an internal or external bypass. A Motorad 218-180 is for the external bypass housing, like you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 18 Author Report Share Posted October 18 I had the same part #'s you listed. Thanks for the reply. I intend to install it tomorrow. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 18 Author Report Share Posted October 18 47 1/2 ton. If your truck is set up for bypass and you have a 3 to 4 pound radiator cap I would not think that would make a freeze plug leak My freeze plugs looked good from the outside but everyone was almost rusted thru. I am on the disabled list so probably no work until next week. At 81 years old it takes a lot longer for bumps, sprains and bruises to heal up. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47 1.5 ton Posted October 18 Report Share Posted October 18 I’m guessing it’s rusted through, I have opened the cap when hot and no pressure. I get a small puddle in the garage when I put it away. Just another thing to keep an eye on. On the thermostat, seems these cheaper ones are sufficient per some old post I found. I have a few 301 Allis Chalmers diesel engines and replaced those with the Napa’s brand over the years due to availability and have not had any ill effects. Guess they must have been over engineered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 22 Author Report Share Posted October 22 Some progress. Getting ready to start working on the dog house. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 29 Author Report Share Posted October 29 I need an original style thermostat. I have purchased two and cannot figure out how to install either without excess space which will not seal the thermostat and would let it float around inside the housing. Any insight is appreciated. Well I spent two 5 hour days trying to get the pilot bushing out without success. Found out that the new slant 6 dizzy i converted is not long enough to reach the oil pump drive. luckily I bought a used dizzy to do the conversion. Seems the 25" block dizzy is longer than the used Dodge dizzy I purchased. I have converted my original dizzy to trigger a HEI module that triggers the Flamethrower 3 coil. Did manage to get the bottom back of the cab welded in plus the inside piece. One more long piece will complete that repair, then on to the one piece of the floor that I need to make and weld in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted October 29 Report Share Posted October 29 What does your thermostat housing look like? You appear to have the correct pieces for a modern thermostat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 29 Author Report Share Posted October 29 Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. I have the external housing. You can see it in the picture.. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted October 29 Report Share Posted October 29 I reckon the assembly procedure is to turn the thermostat housing upside down; center the rubber gasket inside the housing with the collar, with the small lip facing away from the housing flange; thermostat flange should sit in housing counterbore, with thermostatic coil pointed towards head; then housing flange gasket. The original thermostat had a rubber gasket that fit snug on that smaller neck that would seal up inside the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted October 30 Author Report Share Posted October 30 Thanks Mr. Neal. I will assemble today now that it males sence. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted November 2 Author Report Share Posted November 2 (edited) Well thermostat is still a problem. The pictures tell the story of the brass sleeve being too big to go into the housing. The old one seems to fit but is not as shown in parts book. It has no bypass slots. I could carefully drill some bypass holes. It does have the small hole with the jiggle thing (tech term). Ray J. Edited November 2 by Ray J. misspelled word Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 3 Report Share Posted November 3 (edited) what is the brand +part# of the newer thermostat that you have pictured? This post from a few days ago shows one of those adapters stuck in the head: https://p15-d24.com/topic/62105-flange-at-thermostat-inlet/ From what i can tell, that adapter may be a press fit inside the housing, so ya may need to put some oomph into putting this contraption together. The old style thermostat does not have bypass ports as the thermostat housing and engine head are the external bypass style. additional information - flathead bypass thermostat engine head identification Edited November 3 by JBNeal revised information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted November 3 Author Report Share Posted November 3 It is a Motorad 400580. The brass adapter is way to big to pound in. I think I will use the old one and drill a few holes in it until I can find a NOS t-stat.I took a tumble the other day. I don't bounce on concrete or recoup as fast anymore. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted November 5 Author Report Share Posted November 5 Took it easy today and made patch panels for the cab and bed. Yhe big rusty one is a bed patch to cover where he put a diesel stack and the one above it is to close off the ball hitch in the bed. Above that are cab patches. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray J. Posted November 7 Author Report Share Posted November 7 T-STAT question. Am I assuming correctly that the rubber goes in the housing groove, t-stst sits on it and gasket goes between bottom of t-stat and head? see pictures. Manifolds are installed and pattern made from exhaust outlet to where I want muffler to set. Off to exhaust shop tomorrow. Ray J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 7 Report Share Posted November 7 sounds right to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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