Pinion seal

[John431]

Howdy y'all, I'm in the process of replacing the pinion seal the ol'47 club couple and not sure the best way to install the new seal, I read impact gun on the pinion nut would work,the hammer method seems a little risky to me for damage, so I'm not sure which would be the best method. What do you guys recommend?    side note...Holy Jesus !!! getting the old seal out...took almost every tool I have !!!  

Thanks for any help/suggestions

 

 

 

[Sniper]

Take the seal down to the hardware store, find a length of pipe that is just a hair smaller than the seal outside diameter and long enough to go past the stem of the pinion. Use that as a spacer to tap the seal in place, if it has a cap on one end so much the better.  Attempting to use a hammer around the edge of the seal will probably result in a leaky seal as it will most likely tweak the seal housing.  Also, closely inspect the wear surface on the yoke, if it's grooves or otherwise damaged put a speedi-sleeve on the yoke.

Edited April 4, 2022 by Sniper

[harmony]

Good advise from Sniper on this one. When ordering the seal you might as well break the bank and get that speedi-sleeve.  It just makes good sense to give the seal a nice new surface to ride on, since you've gone to all the trouble to get it apart.  

When ordering the seal make sure they don't send you the leather one.  I learned that the hard way.

 

I got a PVC coupler with internal threads on one end of it, from the hardware store.  Not sure exactly what it was used for, but the OD was just under the OD of the seal and it was nice and thick walled at the threaded end, so it had a good surface resting against the face of the seal.   I also bought a foot of the PVC pipe to slide in the opposite end that the threads were on.  That gave me some room to grab on to my new tool while I hammered on the end of it.

[belvedere]

Good advice above. I’ve carefully tapped in seals with a hammer, going very slowly a bit at a time, but it’s definitely easier and better to use the method described by Sniper and harmony.

[John431]

Thanks everybody for your suggestions/advice !!!

B.t.w I did install a speedi sleeve... I'm hoping to do this install in (1) try..."finger crossed".  :  )

 

 

[meezy]

On 4/5/2022 at 10:18 AM, John431 said:

Thanks everybody for your suggestions/advice !!!

B.t.w I did install a speedi sleeve... I'm hoping to do this install in (1) try..."finger crossed".  :  )

 

 

What size speedi sleeve did you get?

[meezy]

Is this the right sleeve for the yoke?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184552342529?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=e293c95ababe4ce795801d44090c3680&bu=43159620293&osub=-1~1&crd=20220505091934&segname=11051&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

[harmony]

45 minutes ago, meezy said:

Is this the right sleeve for the yoke?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/184552342529?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=26&ch=osgood&euid=e293c95ababe4ce795801d44090c3680&bu=43159620293&osub=-1~1&crd=20220505091934&segname=11051&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid

That link seems to be for a transmission sleeve ?

I used a SKF Redi-Sleeve #99832 for the pinion seal on my 48

[meezy]

6 minutes ago, harmony said:

That link seems to be for a transmission sleeve ?

I used a SKF Redi-Sleeve #99832 for the pinion seal on my 48

Great. Thank you.

 

[kencombs]

I've been successful in finding repair sleeves by measuring the OD of the grooved part and determining the length needed (sleeve width).  Use that info to find the correct part on the SKF site.  Use that P/N to search for the best price on the web.  That search will also provide generic versions.

 

The last one I bought, for a 230 crank pulley hub, was less that 1/2 the local parts store.

[harmony]

In hind sight, I would suggest that when installing a sleeve for a seal on the yoke, that you take some measurements and  think about where the seal will be riding on the sleeve.  In my case, I found that by driving the sleeve all the way on the yoke until it seats, that the seal rides really close to the opposite end of the sleeve.  So it would have been fine if I had stopped about an 1/8" or more before the sleeve was fully seated. My yoke shaft wasn't even discoloured or scored where the worn out seal was riding.  But if you have a wear mark on the yoke shaft, and the lip of the new seal is in the same location as the old seal then it's easy to know where to place the sleeve.

 

In the end, I had a Timken seal and a SKF sleeve.  Originally I had ordered all SKF seals and sleeves ( pinion and wheel).  It took about 6 months to get everything in.  When it all arrived the pinion seal was the old leather type.  Which started to leak before I even got the car back on the road.   That seal rides in a different location on the yoke as opposed to the modern rubber type, because of it's design.  The reason I went with the Timken (as opposed to SKF) rubber seal (second attempt) was because another parts store actually had it in stock.

 

During my selection process I never saw different sleeve p/n's for leather seals as opposed to rubber seals. 

 

By this time in the ordeal I was sick and tired of taking measurements and cross referencing to get everything right, so I never did a follow up to determine if SKF sleeves are a different length than Timken sleeves. 

 

At any rate if someone is doing this, it's just something to consider.  You would have to take some measurements prior to removing the yoke.  Find any spot on the yoke that you can accurately measure a distance from that spot to the outside of the seal.  Then once you get everything apart, that measurement will give you a good idea where the lip on the new seal will ride.   

I had 2 shim washers on my pinion shaft for the proper end play, so whatever a particular car had for those shim washers would also determine where a seal would ride on a sleeve.  

[kencombs]

1 hour ago, harmony said:

In hind sight, I would suggest that when installing a sleeve for a seal on the yoke, that you take some measurements and  think about where the seal will be riding on the sleeve.  In my case, I found that by driving the sleeve all the way on the yoke until it seats, that the seal rides really close to the opposite end of the sleeve.  So it would have been fine if I had stopped about an 1/8" or more before the sleeve was fully seated. My yoke shaft wasn't even discoloured or scored where the worn out seal was riding.  But if you have a wear mark on the yoke shaft, and the lip of the new seal is in the same location as the old seal then it's easy to know where to place the sleeve.

 

In the end, I had a Timken seal and a SKF sleeve.  Originally I had ordered all SKF seals and sleeves ( pinion and wheel).  It took about 6 months to get everything in.  When it all arrived the pinion seal was the old leather type.  Which started to leak before I even got the car back on the road.   That seal rides in a different location on the yoke as opposed to the modern rubber type, because of it's design.  The reason I went with the Timken (as opposed to SKF) rubber seal (second attempt) was because another parts store actually had it in stock.

 

During my selection process I never saw different sleeve p/n's for leather seals as opposed to rubber seals. 

 

By this time in the ordeal I was sick and tired of taking measurements and cross referencing to get everything right, so I never did a follow up to determine if SKF sleeves are a different length than Timken sleeves. 

 

At any rate if someone is doing this, it's just something to consider.  You would have to take some measurements prior to removing the yoke.  Find any spot on the yoke that you can accurately measure a distance from that spot to the outside of the seal.  Then once you get everything apart, that measurement will give you a good idea where the lip on the new seal will ride.   

I had 2 shim washers on my pinion shaft for the proper end play, so whatever a particular car had for those shim washers would also determine where a seal would ride on a sleeve.  

I have never found a manufacturers online catalog that lists applications.  They list sizes. ID and length.   Retailers select from that list the size that fits the Intended application.   If you look directly at the makers list you can select a length that best suits your worn part and puts the new wear area under the seal lip.  And the lengths vary a lot, really narrow to wide.  By selecting wider one doesn’t have to be as precise as when using a narrower one.