Sniper Posted February 15, 2022 Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 Wish I was closer, we'd get to the bottom of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted February 15, 2022 Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 Not clicking and trying to turn over is an improvement. So, when you tried cranking it back home, and you said it would barely turn over, you mean without using the 12V to jump it. Don't know much about starters, but does anyone know if the guy rebuilding it could have replaced something like the windings and thought it was a 12V? It would check out good (like a 12V starter) but not work with 6V? Just shooting in the dark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 15, 2022 Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 You know, we did a good job of looking at the voltage drop on the supply side, not so much the return. On my engine the battery ground cable attaches to the water pump, the water pump is attached to the block, the block to the bell housing then the starter to the bell housing. Any or all of that might be suspect. Can you get a jumper cable and hook the starter mounting bolt to the positive battery terminal (positive ground, right?) This would temporarily add another ground to the starter. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted February 15, 2022 Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 I have my 6V starter off the 48 Dodge in the shed. 30 yrs ago it worked. Tomorrow I'll go measure the ohms terminal to terminal, terminals to ground and see what I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 I tried jumping the solenoid and my jumper cables tried to weld themselves to the solenoid. (Lots of Sparkage) 3 hours ago, Sniper said: You know, we did a good job of looking at the voltage drop on the supply side, not so much the return. On my engine the battery ground cable attaches to the water pump, the water pump is attached to the block, the block to the bell housing then the starter to the bell housing. Any or all of that might be suspect. Can you get a jumper cable and hook the starter mounting bolt to the positive battery terminal (positive ground, right?) This would temporarily add another ground to the starter. My Battery-ground is currently hooked to the bolt that holds the Coil Bracket assembly. My Starter-ground was hooked to a different bolt. Last weekend I moved the starter-ground to the same bolt as the Battery-ground. My thinking was that this would effectively make a straight ground-connection from Battery to starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 I cant help but feel the starter is still the issue. I am looking for a different shop to test my starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted February 15, 2022 Report Share Posted February 15, 2022 Went and measured it. MAW 4041 starter. Only has one terminal. My digital ohm meter shows 0.3 Ohms when touching both leads together. Always gets 0.6 from starter terminal to any shiny place I rub on body, so I assumed 0.3 Ohms . As I mentioned, hasn't run in 30 yrs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Just wondering when your starter was rebuilt, was it rewound? If so was it wound for 12vdc instead of 6vdc? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 what engages the pinion gear to the flywheel. My 37 Plymouth is accomplished by my foot. Or is there a sol on your starter as in modern cars? If you are just pushing a button to turn the engine that would indicate a sol on the starter if it will not start but just click I would look at that sol not the one in the engine compartment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 16, 2022 Report Share Posted February 16, 2022 Out of curiosity, did the shop test your starter with 6v or 12? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 On 2/16/2022 at 4:57 AM, SteveR said: Just wondering when your starter was rebuilt, was it rewound? If so was it wound for 12vdc instead of 6vdc? On 2/16/2022 at 7:14 AM, Sniper said: Out of curiosity, did the shop test your starter with 6v or 12? Both times I took the starter in I made sure to stress that it was not only 6v but also Positive ground. I am pretty sure the guy tested it on 6v. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted February 17, 2022 Report Share Posted February 17, 2022 With the cable off the terminal did you check the resistance ohms? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 Not sure what you mean. Resistance across the starter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 4 hours ago, OUTFXD said: Not sure what you mean. Resistance across the starter? One lead on the terminal, one lead on any ground on the starter body. Multimeter set on Ohms for resistance at the low scale (usually 200). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 9 minutes ago, Bryan said: One lead on the terminal, one lead on any ground on the starter body. Multimeter set on Ohms for resistance at the low scale (usually 200). I will try to check that for you in the morning! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 12 hours ago, Bryan said: One lead on the terminal, one lead on any ground on the starter body. Multimeter set on Ohms for resistance at the low scale (usually 200). Un hooked the battery, Pulled the lead off the starter terminal. set up a multimeter the way you said. Ohmagge across starter to ground (with multimeter set to 200) 1.3. It took a while to for the meter to "Settle" and it kept jumping up to (max) 3.2 . What does this mean? No clue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 (edited) 15 minutes ago, OUTFXD said: Un hooked the battery, Pulled the lead off the starter terminal. set up a multimeter the way you said. Ohmagge across starter to ground (with multimeter set to 200) 1.3. It took a while to for the meter to "Settle" and it kept jumping up to (max) 3.2 . What does this mean? No clue. Don't know but my 6V starter MAW 4041 was reading 0.3 Ohms. Jumping readings just means you have to rub a shiny place with the leads for good connection. Edited February 18, 2022 by Bryan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 Have your solenoid checked out by the auto electrician, your starter is fine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 Have you tried cleaning the contacts of your sol with an emery cloth? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 17 minutes ago, SteveR said: Have you tried cleaning the contacts of your sol with an emery cloth? 25 minutes ago, maok said: Have your solenoid checked out by the auto electrician, your starter is fine I cant say I have cleaned the contacts on the old solonoid. I have replaced the solenoid with two different new ones. The second one I got all new nuts and washers for. the One that came on the car is the only one that will turn the engine over. The others just "Click" rapidly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted February 18, 2022 Report Share Posted February 18, 2022 Measure the coil resistance of all three soleniods, little terminal to case ground. Just grasping at straws. Maybe the new ones are not really 12v coils. If they are very different resistances than the old one that will tell you. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted February 19, 2022 Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 I can't help but think this is something simple 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted February 19, 2022 Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 On 2/11/2022 at 11:14 PM, OUTFXD said: When the spark plugs are removed, the engine spins freely, accompanied by the now familier rapid clicking. On my 37 starter, I had to replace the brushes and turn the commutator. There are 4 brushes in there. I find it suspect that it will turn with no load but when load is applied it just clicks. Are you setting 6vdc at the contacts and then at the starter? if so then the starter would be in question If you are not getting 6vdc at the output of the contacts but do get it at the input side, the Starter sol is in question If you are not getting your 6vdc at the starter but are getting it at the contacts then the cable is in question Have you tried to bypass the sol and run your 6vdc directly to the starter? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler1941 Posted February 19, 2022 Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 For now forget solenoid and ohms. If you cannot turn your starter with two fingers, it's dragging. It's a common failure of rebuilds. Must be almost as easy to turn as generator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted February 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2022 23 hours ago, kencombs said: Measure the coil resistance of all three soleniods, little terminal to case ground. on the OLD solenoid (The one on the car) I got 2.0 ohm on the lowest setting. The NEW solenoid didnt register at all from Little terminal to case. However it was not installed at the time. Not sure if that makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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