MarcDeSoto Posted February 1, 2022 Report Share Posted February 1, 2022 I drained my Fluid Drive fluid out of the FD drive by removing the filler plug and rotating the FD plug to the bottom to drain out. I let it stay like that for about a week and then started to turn the engine over with a socket wrench. When I turned it over again so the drain was down, it started draining more fluid. So I let it all drain out. I then searched for funnel thin enought to fit into the tiny hole that is the filler. It is very difficult because you have to hold the funnel almost horizontal to the hole. I was spilling too much fluid, so I looked for another way. With my helper, we used HF hand pump for transferring fluids. It was still a difficult thing to do and needed two people. We used the recommended Mobil 1 light circulating oil 32 iso meant for use in turbines. I was keeping track of how much I was putting in and was expecting to use about 7 quarts. But it started running out of the filler hole at about 5 or 6 quarts. Maybe there was still some of the old fluid in there? So if you plan on doing this job put a large pan under the bell housing so you don't make a mess from dripping. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 (edited) Have you driven it since the change over? Any impressions of any differences for better or worse? What are your thoughts 9n the push starting procedure, how do you interpret what the "power position" is? Edited February 2, 2022 by greg g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 (edited) No, I haven't even started the engine or put the body back on yet. The M5 semi automatic transmission has two forward postiions of the stick shift. High 3rd and 4th gear when the stick shift is down. And Power range, 1st and 2nd, when the stick shift is high. So high postition is Power, and low position is cruising. Edited February 2, 2022 by MarcDeSoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerJon Posted February 2, 2022 Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 I don't have a fluid drive, but when filling, did you put the plug in and turn it over a few times, to get fluid up/over/into wherever the fluid had come from the second time you drained it? Might have a 1-2 qt air bubble. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2022 (edited) That's a good idea. I think I will do that just to make sure I don't need more fluid. But there is supposed to be some air in there. That's why you only fill it about 80% full. That is because the fluid gets hot during operation and needs room to expand. Thanks Marc., Edited February 3, 2022 by MarcDeSoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 FWIW; To fill my fluid drive I used a squeeze bottle that has a nozzle on it that I attached some clear rubber hose onto. It was originally intended for use during one of the steps to fill cracks in basement walls (as if that info helps). It only holds a pint of fluid, and only flows so much, so it took a few refills and some time to finish with the fluid drive, but I didn't spill any oil when filling. I use it whenever I need to fill something that has difficult to reach fill holes. Yes, draining made a mess, don't think that can be helped much. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tired iron Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 Thanks for those helpful scans of tech bulletin s. Heres a little more information on sourcing the fluid drive oil. For starters, i kept wondering what that DTE stands for. Turns out it means dynamo, turbine, engine. After reading your previous posts and that great seminal post (I forget his name this moment) we can sum it up to say we need an oil with a 32 iso and good anti foaming additive. Turbine oils are a good category. So,prompted by not wanting to buy a 220 dollar bucket, i did some deep digging and found a few cheaper alternatives that still satisfy our requirements: Mobile DTE light circulating oil ISO 32. ( currently 155.87 on ebay) DTE 24 is iso weight 32 while DTE 25 has a iso of 46 Shell turbo oil T 32 115.51 Chevron Regal R&O iso 32 98.28 Sunoco Sunnis turbine oils 932 64.31 At petroleumservicecompany.com Phillips 66 turbine oil 32 79.40 yoderoil 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 I also noticed that the bottle that 90 w gear oil for you diff comes in the right kind of spout for filling in small holes. Thanks Tired Iron for the DTE oil suggestions. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobDeSoto Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 Do those specs really say that the kick down should only be used at speeds under 35MPH? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 Good question. I think that spec is in error. I have a 1946 DeSoto Data Book. It says the kick down shouldn't be used when you are going over 45 mph. But I looked at this 1948 filmstrip on the M-5 transmission and it says that the kick down feature stops working somewhere between 40 and 45 mph. If you want to see Mr. Tech explain it, go to about 18 mins. in this video: https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-a-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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