60 amp 6v alternator wiring

[wagoneer]

I am upgrading to a 6v positive ground alternator rated at 40 amps nominal and 60 amps maximum. I started looking at the wiring realizing the current 10 gauge battery connections to the voltage regulator and the amp meter are sufficient for the 40 amp nominal amount but insufficient to carry 60 amps to the battery.

 

seems to me I need to update my main battery wires to at least 8/9 gauge OR potentially double up the wiring - run in parallel . Would having two 10  or 12 gauge wires going to the B terminal and the ammeter terminal be sufficient to carry the current especially if I want to load up a bit more in cabin.

 

may A second wire going to a fuse box that I can then tie into instead of the current mess.

 

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

 

[Sniper]

If your battery takes 60A to charge you have a problem.

 

A bit about how charging systems work.  It's like a "good" communist system, from each according to it's ability (alternator) to each according to it's need (various loads).  Unlike humans, this system works in the vehicle, and the needs do not change if the ability does.  Sorry for the poor attempt at humor.

 

Batteries take a certain amount of current to charge, the size of the generator or alternator won't change that unless they are too small to provide that level of current to begin with.  So if you upgrade your alternator it will not change the rate of charge to the battery unless the original was too small to begin with.

 

Now the ammeter, or generator, has one job, to provide all the power your vehicle needs.  Nothing more, nothing less.  This is controlled by the voltage regulator which senses system voltage and will control the alternator to maintain that system voltage.  The output of the alternator goes to the ammeter.  EVERY load except the battery and starter motor ties into the same point on the ammeter as the alternator feed.  The only thing tied to the other size of the ammeter is the battery feed.  So the only thing the ammeter reads is current to or from the battery.  What this means is that no matter what size your alternator the ammeter doesn't care it is only measuring current to and from the battery, you do not need to change it out.  Also, the ammeter will still work if you convert polarity and/or voltage though you will need to swap leads if you change polarity.  

 

Unless your electrical loads have changed you will never see 60A out of the alternator as it's output is controlled by need, via the voltage regulator.  If your battery starts drawing 60A you will be needing a new battery. 

 

All that said, if you want to update the wiring it will not hurt a thing.  I would suggest that you use uninsulated terminals both crimped and soldered on and then insulated by heat resistant heat shrink.  I would make sure all the connections are clean and bright when you reassemble them.  Further more I would add in a fusible link at the battery end of the wire going from the battery to the ammeter, not the starter cable just to be clear.  This will protect the vehicle if there is a short some where.  If you have any added electrical items being fed directly from the battery (which will show as a charge on the ammeter, btw) make sure they are either using a fuse or a fusible link.

[Booger]

There will be a 'pop quiz" later. Hey the dog ate my homework. Jeez this place would be lost with out you.

Qualitypowerauto.com has a 6v + grnd alt reconfigired out of a Delco10SI. Would you endorse such a swap?

Feliz Ano nuevo

[Sniper]

I have no experience with the 10Si, either stock or converted, so no advice to offer.

 

In my case I chose to convert to 12v negative ground.  I am using a mopar alternator and regulator, I used an 87 Dodge Diplomat as the source vehicle as it is the last year of the "normal" looking mopar alternator and it is rated at 78A, no I don't need 78A right now.  However, I am converting over to an electric cooling fan (free horsepower) and EFI so the need will grow.

[DJK]

I got my 6v positive ground alternator and mounting bracket from Howard Enterprises Iola, Ks 620-228-1477.  Very happy with my purchase.

[Booger]

25 minutes ago, DJK said:

I got my 6v positive ground alternator and mounting bracket from Howard Enterprises Iola, Ks 620-228-1477.  Very happy with my purchase.

 At some point generator will flatline. will look further into that upgrade, still not willing to 12v or electronics. gracias

[wagoneer]

7 hours ago, Booger said:

There will be a 'pop quiz" later. Hey the dog ate my homework. Jeez this place would be lost with out you.

Qualitypowerauto.com has a 6v + grnd alt reconfigired out of a Delco10SI. Would you endorse such a swap?

Feliz Ano nuevo

 

 

For the 60 amp alternator, you need a minimum of 9 gauge (with low tolerance for wire failure).

 

This is exactly what I got. I decided to upgrade my wiring, and build harnesses myself one system at a time. I decided to avoid the gauge mess for the most part and go with 8 gauge for the main hot circuits ( alternator -> ammeter, solenoid -> ammeter ), 12 gauge for the fluid drive system, and ground/solenoid +/-. I also added a ground wire into my harness to better ground the transmission to the engine circuits.

im considering wiring my alternator directly to the ammeter and bypassing the external voltage regulator B terminal altogether 

 

 

I decided to simplify - I'm using high quality oil/gas resistant  wiring, but of a single color or few colors. I bought extreme weather electrical tape, and multi color tape. I'm color coding based on electrical tape and labels, as most of the wire is anyway covered in black tape. I basically am sticking to 8 and 12 gauge for most everything inside the engine bay, and 14 gauge for everything inside the cabin. 8 Gauge if it touches the solenoid (horn). 

 

I'm documenting my harness system by system, and I'll publish for the group so they can make it themselves. I'm creating the harnesses as I see fit and what makes sense, rather than necessarily  original.  I'm also replacing whole wires at a time for the most part, and keeping some of the old that looks pretty good. 

 

Here's what I made so far. 

 

Connection	Harness Name	color	Tracer and color	gauge	Length	source	connector type	destination	terminal type	terminal size
ET1	engine trans relay	yellow		12	3ft	Transmission Relay - TH	ring	Carburator - kickdown switch	fork
ET2	engine trans relay	red		12	3ft	Transmission Relay - SOL	ring	Carburetor - Anti-Stall	bullet
ET3	engine trans relay	black		12	2ft	Transmission Relay - PRI	ring	Ignition Coil - Positive +	ring	1/4
ET4	engine trans relay	green		12	2ft	Transmission Relay - BAT	ring	Ignition Coil - Negative -	ring	1/4
ET5	engine trans relay	black		12	2ft	Transmission Relay - Ground	ring	block (near coil)	ring
T1	transmission relay	yellow		12	10ft	Transmission Relay - TH	ring	Transmission - Governor	ring	1/4
T2	transmission relay	red		12	10ft	Transmission Relay - SOL	ring	Transmission - Solenoid	ring	1/4
T3	transmission relay	blue		12	10ft	Transmission Relay - INT	ring	Transmission - Interruptor	ring	1/4
T4	transmission relay	black		12	10ft	Transmission Relay - Ground	ring	Transmission - case	ground
A1	Alternator Starter Solenoid	Red		8		Alternator		Ammeter
A2	Alternator Starter Solenoid	Red		8		Starter Solenoid - Bottom Right	ring	Ammeter	ring

 

Edited January 1, 2022 by wagoneer

[wagoneer]

For the Chrysler/Desoto 46-48, there is ground wire  connection between the top left solenoid connection and the armature terminal on the generator [ Brown wire from starter to generator A terminal ] .

 

In converting to the Alternator, there is no A terminal. It doesn't seem appropriate to connect it to the battery terminal on the alternator. Note the dodge/plymouth circuits do not have this connection.

 

What have others done for this connection? Would it be sufficient to ground it to the block, or any other ground?

 

Also, the battery connects to 15- starter motor terminal, but what is supposed to connect to 14- battery terminal nominally? (The wiring diagram shows a connection to the automatic choke. Is it meant as an open power source to tap into then for any devices in the bay?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 6, 2022 by wagoneer

[DonaldSmith]

Yes, ground the brown wire that went to the A post.  This was Walter's scheme to keep the starter from running when the engine is running.  Normally, the solenoid can be grounded through the generator field.  But when the generator is running, the back current, whatever it is called,  prevents this grounding.   You can ground the wire closer to the solenoid, at some convenient point.  Remember your star washers, kids. (Excellent for grounding through paint layers.)  

[Jeff Balazs]

I have been running the Quality Power 6V pg unit on my truck for over 7 years now. Works perfect all the time. Fit and forget!!!!!!!!

Hth, Jeff