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Found my camshaft! - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.


Bryan

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Done for today. Got the drive shaft off.   Transmission loosened but had trouble how to do the straps on the transmission jack.   Checked the right front wheel out. No rebuild on those wheel cylinders.  Spindle worn a little. Anybody with opinions on spindle condition?   The vertical pin (kingpin?) behind the brake backing plate clunks, mostly up and down motion.    Will post later short video on pinion end of differential.

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I would guess there is a micrometer measurement that would fit the spindle & the bearing that rides on it.

Give you the exact number.

I would imagine if the bearing slides on and not to much slop, will be fine.

What I see in photo looks good. Bearings ride on spindle, hubs/wheels ride on bearings.

 

I have seen bearings neglected & freeze up on the spindle from lack of grease. Need a oxy/act torch on the side of the road to cut off the frozen bearing. Clean up the spindle, slap a new bearing on it and good to go.

I dunno, yours look good to me.

 

Rule of thumb with king pins. If you can get any movement out of them, they need replaced.

I was told you jack up and get the tire off the ground, then try to grab the tire and rock it back & forth.

Naturally you need to have your wheel bearings greased and set.

 

I was able to look at the top & bottom of king pins on both sides while checking. Only the passenger side top has a minimal amount of movement.

I found the zirk fitting was plugged when greasing the front end. I replaced the zirk & greased it ... still moves a hair but not bad. .... not tearing it apart to replace the king pins because of 1/32 movement on the one  bushing.

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8 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Rule of thumb with king pins. If you can get any movement out of them, they need replaced.

I was told you jack up and get the tire off the ground, then try to grab the tire and rock it back & forth.

I was able to look at the top & bottom of king pins on both sides while checking. Only the passenger side top has a minimal amount of movement.

 

These haven't been greased or moved in 30 yrs. Probably dry. Most of the movement is up and down, clunks loud. Very little side motion at all. 

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36 minutes ago, Bryan said:

Here's the short rear end video.   Sounds a little loose.

That pinion nut and flange has been apart before....wonder what they did to the internals??

Probably not much right if the pinion is loose and sloppy.

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To be honest I have never read anything about the up & down, is the side to side we need to worry about.

Is the side to side I measure.

 

I once had a 51 ferd with bad king pins., truck drove fine except for a few times it would start the death wobble doing 55 mph down the freeway.

Only way to stop it was to pull over & stop ... then resume your trip. Bad king pins is bad news.

 

I would try to get some grease in them, rotate the spindles back and forth then force more grease in them ... rinse and repeat.

Then decide the condition they are in.

 

Good chance they do need replaced, but if not properly greased to check them how would you know?

 

 

 

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Just pulled the transmission.   Strange that it has an upper hole facing the clutch housing that leaks fluid if you turn it upside down or on its side. From the mating face looks like it was leaking..

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Well, got the transmission out, and loosened the Master cylinder without breaking anything.  The master cylinder has 3 bolts that thread into welded nuts on a frame. Glad I didn't strip them or break anything off.   2nd picture - C clamps for the pedals - didn't have a tool to get them off. They were too big to do like I normally do, no gap in the deep part of the C.   Stopped messing with it before I got ticked off and cleaned my shop up, cleaned tools up and put them up.

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34 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

I found the C-clamps were easy to remove. Are they like these here in my '53 Chrysler?

 

 

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Yep, just like that.  Yeah, if you have the right tools..  You have to be able to spread both ends & push at the same time, otherwise they just spin round and round. Usually on the small ones you can get a gap started at the crest, and pry it out.  Otherwise, round and round, round and round..

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I just had the Cambridge's kingpins redone at my local machine shop, I supplied the parts.  That and drilling/tapping three holes for my disc brake swap cost me $300, just a price point for you.  vertical clearance is specified at .008", IIRC.  That pinion backlash looks to be way loose to me. 

Edited by Sniper
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Those horseshoe clips can be easily and quickly removed with a 13/16" open end wrench. 

 

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27 minutes ago, Sniper said:

I just had the Cambridge's kingpins redone at my local machine shop, I supplied the parts.  That and drilling/tapping three holes for my disc brake swap cost me $300, just a price point for you.  vertical clearance is specified at .008", IIRC.  That pinion backlash looks to be way loose to me. 

Thanks...I was having to do the brake system (and all the fuel lines) anyway. Seems you can get a kingpin repair set for about $50.  Just don't know how hard it is to do.   I'm dreading going into the rear end. One, don't want to be popping anymore bolts. Two, on my Dodge Dakota that was what started me to overhaul it, the axle bearings were a little loose. Had to open the differential up to get the axles out..it was wobbling like a basketball. Stress had caused it to stretch the finger on the carrier side threaded retainers.  Carrier bearings were loose and races were spinning in the housing. I ended up overhauling the whole thing.  The drive shaft is off.  I could go in there and tighten the backlash..again, afraid of what I'll find.  OCD me wants everything to be perfect...

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3/4" open end wrench shown used for removal of horseshoe clip on rear of the trans internal shoe brake anchor clip ..

Use a  13/16" open end on main  service brake anchor horseshoe clips.

 Also shown is the factory Miller tool doing same for removal of main brake anchor clips.

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Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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9 hours ago, Bryan said:

Seems you can get a kingpin repair set for about $50.  Just don't know how hard it is to do.

 

There are bushings in there that need pressed out and replaced, then reamed to fit the kingpin.  The FSM shows factory tools to do those functions, which I don't have so I farmed it out to the machine shop to do.  Not sure it was cheaper than finding the tools and doing it myself though.

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22 hours ago, Sniper said:

 

There are bushings in there that need pressed out and replaced, then reamed to fit the kingpin.  The FSM shows factory tools to do those functions, which I don't have so I farmed it out to the machine shop to do.  Not sure it was cheaper than finding the tools and doing it myself though.

I have this 3 ton Arbor press in my shed, barely enough to do a universal joint..

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Question..I get the feeling that my transmission leaks at places other than the top left hole shown on the picture. I need to check it around Tuesday..Monday I'll be planting 2 pecan trees.  Does anybody know where I can get transmission gaskets?  It has leaked on the driveshaft emergency brake liner.  Liner is thick. Do the brake work if it is oily?

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