Dual single carb linkage, planning stage

[lostviking]

For those who have done this, can you share your knowledge and pictures of your setups? I've got my two carbs (Carter WA-1) and an Offenhauser intake. I'm in no hurry to install any of it, I'm working on other parts of the truck right now.

 

This is being installed on a 230.

 

I can see lots of ways to do this, but I'd like to see what others have already done. How the swivel rod is mounted/supported, that the links from each carb and the throttle cable will attach to are of particular interest.

 

Have a great Labor Day everyone!

[greg g]

Made mine from threaded rod, locking collars and go cart him joints.  Homely but it works.  I used the original bell crank and then doubled up the pulls.  Will look for some pictures.

[Jim Shepard]

I have a factory two barrel intake from a mid-50's car and the matching Stromberg WW carb. I had to spin the carb 180 degrees because the the truck linkage comes up on the passenger side of the engine. I wanted to stay with this setup and not go with a cable-type throttle linkage. When I did that the 'automatic choke would not clear the head. I had to CnC a block of aluminum to raise the carb about two inches to clear the head. At that point I just fabricated a rod similar to the stock truck setup and, after drilling a hole at the appropriate location on the carb linkage, I was able to hook it all up. Works great. I tried to drag a photo over but the file is too large. Not quite sure how to deal with it...

 

Sorry. After re-reading your post I realized my mine was not responsive...

Edited September 6, 2021 by Jim Shepard

[nkeiser]

I used Tom Lagdon's kit for the linkage on the carbs. I used a Chevy gas pedal they used in the 80 on vans and trucks I think. O'Reilly's had a new cable the right length.

 

[greg g]

Don't know if you can see much here, the rear carb stuff is hidden by the work light.  I used the taped head bolts to hold the the rod for and after, the levers are clamped in place by a lock nut on either side. This makes the levers tunable for synching the carbs.  This was mentioned to be temporary and hasn't failed in 16 years since installed.  During that time , I have adjusted  adjusted the syncing  once.

 

But 

I guess if it's a truck it's different.

Edited September 6, 2021 by greg g

[bkahler]

https://p15-d24.com/topic/51357-51-b3b-build-thread-after-all-these-years/?do=findComment&comment=595503

[lostviking]

Thanks everyone for the pictures and comments. At least one of those was almost exactly what I was picturing in my mind. I like the setup in bkahler's post quite a bit though too. I do a lot of mechanical design at my job, and just plain tinkering. This gives me some more angles to work from though. I'm going to look at what Langdon has also, but I don't think I like the idea of a $200 kit  I've price various types of rod ends at McMaster and I can get it built for a lot less.

 

Hope you are all enjoying Labor Day!

Edited September 6, 2021 by lostviking

[lostviking]

I bought the kit from Langdon, knowing full well I wasn't ordering a kit that I was going to use, but rather some of the parts I was going to use. Tom called me several times to discuss things and let me know about the shipping and such. Nice to do business with a person who takes care of and talks with his customers.

 

Once I get the kit here, I'll see how I can use what's there and fab whatever else I need to get things to work.

 

I plan on using the Choke cable and the throttle connected "speed control" cable to run the two carb chokes. Not that I use a choke much in San Diego...or ever.

[lostviking]

Here is my mockup. As you can see, I haven't rebuilt the carbs yet. Just doused them in WD40 to check that everything moves as it should. I removed some linkage that won't be used also.

 

 

[lostviking]

I got the Langdon linkage in the mail a couple days ago. Like I thought, a lot of it will be pretty useful to me, just not a bolt on. I used some mounting tabs I had from one of my Harleys and was able to get the main rod mounted with the two rod ends it mounts on. Then the arms and linkage to the carbs. It's all just mock up, but I can open the two carbs by moving the longer arm that goes down to the linkage from the pedal. I'll take a picture, but it's not the end design yet.

 

There is a place online called send cut send dot com. They do laser metal cutting with a pretty decent minimum cost of $29. I'm going to design what I need, the order from them. I'll post the end design and cost information in case anyone is interested later.

[kendall]

The first photo shows my doomed first setup. I wanted to keep the original Dodge crossover at the bell housing as well as the floor mounted pedal and have nothing cross the top of the engine. Bad idea and/or execution! . Everything hung from the intake. Too many joints and direction changes made the gas pedal-feel vague. Four years of this and finally accepted the fact that I would have to run linkage across the top of my Edgy head. I purchased a Lokar pedal and cable, fabbed a wire loom to fix the cable at the midpoint, attached hime-joints, brackets and collars on  a s.s. rod to two short brackets from headbolts. This has been the greatest performance improvement  on the truck since ownership and I removed a bucket of worn-out iron in the process.

[lostviking]

Here is a first attempt. I'll make better mounts for the pivot rod later.

[greg g]

If you have the tapped head bolts, they make anchoring the vertical heims simple use a lock nut to secre them at the height you want.

[lostviking]

14 hours ago, greg g said:

If you have the tapped head bolts, they make anchoring the vertical heims simple use a lock nut to secre them at the height you want.

True, but in the picture above the throttle is being "driven" from the other side. That's where the stock linkage comes in, at least as my memory serves. I haven't looked at that side of the engine in awhile.

[greg g]

Keep forgetting its a truck you're building

[Old Flathead]

I the same set up,, dual Ball & Ball on an Edmonds intake. But I have no linkage. Your photo really helped to get an idea of what is needed. Do you have any updated photo's you could share? 

[Crisjr14]

Morning I am also trying to find of anyone could help me with my dual carb system as well with pictures on how the 2 are supposed to be connected linkages ad whatever knowledge someone might what to pass on to me I was told that the back carb is main one and is starving for something also was told that the reason that is because I don't have a linkage setup going from one carb to the other on the pins that are on the side as circled in picture attached for the butterfly to run in sync I have no clue please someone give me a hand I would greatly appreciate it pictures,videos,links to sites to buy anything will be appreciated 

 

[lostviking]

No, other things happened and I'm busy doing repairs to get the truck back on the road.

 

For both of you I highly suggest taking a good look at the stock linkage setup. That bell crank on the rear of the intake is what I believe will be the "master" for anything you do. I see it as very similar to the stock truck setup, but it pulls down on a linkage connected to the rod that then connects the two carbs.

 

I was never going to put this setup on my stock unknown mileage motor. It is for after a rebuild. I don't like to push fate, and beating up an old motor is doing that IMHO.

 

There are some people on this site who have a dual setup. Maybe start a thread specifically asking them to share. 

 

This link shared earlier in this thread is a pretty good view of what it needs to look like...

 

Edited February 27, 2022 by lostviking
added link

[FarmerJon]

How did you fit the WA-1 carb bases to the offy intake? The ones I got are the slightly smaller bolt pattern than the stock Carter.

[lostviking]

They dropped right on. It's been awhile...

[lostviking]

There are more than 1 WA-1, mine are WA-1-413S carbs.

[FarmerJon]

I was under the impression that the -1 was how Carter indicated the flange size. -1 being SAE#1 flange (1" 11/16) and the Ball and Ball being a SAE#2 flange (1" 15/16)

 

Mine are 496s, was planning on slotting the holes, but would rather use the right base, if it exists.

 

ETA- yup, the 413 is a "universal fit" with a larger iron flange that has oval holes to take both patterns. 

Edited March 7, 2022 by FarmerJon