It's Broke

[BobB]

I'm a big fan of the adage: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." 

 

My last trip into town in the '52 B3B required 3 stops to let the engine cool down. That's broke.

 

So . . .

I want to fix this problem properly and for the long term.

 

I anticipate that the first step is to flush the engine thoroughly after disconnecting from the radiator. I also plan to replace the water pump, water distribution tube, and radiator in the process.  My big question is what outlets should I open up and in what order in order to get the best benefit from flushing the engine?

• At what point should I remove the heater valve on the back of the head? Heater core is already disconnected.
• In what order should I remove the lower freeze plugs to flush the scale they are probably hiding? Would a shop vac be useful in getting the crud out of them?
• At what point in the flush should I remove the water pump and water distribution tube?
• Does any of this need to be done with a warm/hot engine?
• Are there any chemical products that help the flush produce a cleaner engine?

 

I've rigged a way to connect my hose to force the water into the engine more forcefully (picture).

 

All thoughts and insights appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Bob

[billrigsby]

 

This was in a post, earlier this week, may help..... Need help with Water pump 1947 Dodge 2 ton COE

 

"I'm a big fan of the adage: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." 

 

I thought it was "If its broke fix it, if it ain't broke paint it"

GO NAVY!

 

[Tooljunkie]

I had a rad plugging issue after hours of flushing when i first got it. It was full of muck. Got lots out. 
i disconnected rad,pulled block drain and kept filling through lower rad hose and blowing it out with air. Left thermostat in. 
plug block drain, fill block and open drain and immediately hammer the air to it. I tried a commercial block cleaner, it was worthless. Engine never boiled over after i backflushed radiator 
i never did get to changing water distribution tube,as i pulled engine and plunked in a 360 4bbl/727. 
i still want to go through it, i did enjoy driving it with the flathead and 3 on the floor. Want to fix up another one. 

Edited August 22, 2021 by Tooljunkie

[JBNeal]

If'n ya are gonna replace the water pump, then that's the time to flush the engine block.  Removal of the block drain should give ya a sneak peek at any buildup in the water jacket.  A malfunctioning water pump will not be moving coolant at an acceptable flow rate to maintain a heat exchange to the environment in order to keep engine temperatures in an acceptable range.  A poorly functioning WDT will create hot spots near #s 4, 5 & 6, which can be observed with an infrared thermometer.  With the water pump removed, water can be forced into the WDT and observed draining to see if it trickles out or is colored with contaminants.  Also, a stiff wire or hook can be used to probe the WDT openings to see if they are blocked or have changed shape from erosion.

[Young Ed]

Well in order to use that adapter you'll need to leave the water pump. So I would say pull the 2 lower plugs and flush. Then I would pull water pump and dist tube and flush more. 

[CO54]

11 hours ago, billrigsby said:

I thought it was "If its broke fix it, if it ain't broke paint it"

GO NAVY!

Agreed!

[BobB]

Great input!
 

Thanks guys.