SSGRhymer

[SSGRHYMER]

Hello

I follow these posts very much and found a lot of awesome advice from Veteran Car Professionals. Thanks so much for all the help.

 

I have a 1942 WC 52 here in Germany. I developed a noise like a ticking/ rattling noise from the rear of my engine/ Bell housing area. I think.

 

You do not hear it when truck is idle, Sounds great. No knocks nothing making noise other than the Fuel pump with normal sound.

Then I drive for about 5 minutes 2-3 gear it starts, then 3-4 th gear. It gets louder as you accelerate and decreases when you let off the gas.

I stop the truck and push in the clutch and at a certain RPM it will make the noise. When I get home the and the truck is idling, in neutral. Again I can rev the motor up to a certain RPM and it rattles. Turn it off for about 10 minutes. Noise is gone until start driving again for 5 minutes.

 

I pulled pan and engine is clean and no apparent bearing damage. Had Valves professionally checked and gauged. New Manifold Gasket with no leaks.

 

Pulled the dust cover and flywheel pan off, turn the truck on in Neutral while idling, checked the flywheel turning against the starter. No sign of damage or noise.

Then I discovered the spring from throw-out bearing hanging down and broke, with small piece in the FW pan.

 

We replaced the bearing completely. Was happy this was the noise maker. Go on the road from the shop and it started again. Ticking/ Rattle. I used the water hose method to listen to the noise while driving. That is the area it is most loudest. Bell Housing/ Rear Engine.

 

Can someone help? I have limited knowledge for these old trucks, but learning thanks to everyone here and G503.  

Thanks

Curt

[JBNeal]

kinda sounds like it might be in your transmission, possibly a bearing going out...

 

additional information - transmission noises

[DJ194950]

Check the flywheel to crank bolts for tightness. 

 

Found a similar type noise and it was loose flywheel bolts/nuts.

 

DJ

[SSGRHYMER]

Thank you for that info. I try the flywheel first, if that is not it, then pull the transmission and look inside.

I was worried it was the engine, but the engine sounds and looks good.

Luckily I can place a rebuild transmission in it, but aligning the PTO will be a challenge 

Thanks again and will let you know what I find.

Cheers

Curt

[SSGRHYMER]

Oh, do you know what the torque is on those nuts/ bolts are by chance?

Thank you

Curt

[The Oil Soup]

The shop manual for the ‘53 218/230 states: Flywheel nuts..........7/16”—20    55 to 60 foot-pounds.

[SSGRHYMER]

Great, Thank you so much

[SSGRHYMER]

Well I checked the Flywheel and everything was tight and did not appear damaged. Clutch and Bell housing was also good.

I did see gear oil had splashed a little around. So I am going with pulling the transmission. It has to be it. I trouble Shot everywhere else.

The tranny is about 10 years old and I bought it used. It had a high clutch and the throw-out spring broken. It drove okay though. Maybe it damaged something else or the previous driver could not drive non-synch tranny. 

 

Its leaking in several places anyway, so I guess a rebuild is in order anyhow.

 

Thanks everyone for your awesome advice. I let you know how it turned out.

Cheers

Curt

 

 

[SSGRHYMER]

Hello Everyone

After over a month of troubleshooting everything. I still cannot find this knock Rattle noise. So after going through everything, checking loose parts, bolts etc.

I took the Dodge for another drive. The engine is smooth and no noise at all,.

Oil pressure is a 60 when starting and after running for a few minutes. Its a 40-45. According to the Manual. This is good and correct.

Temperature after driving is about 170 ( It was 80 degrees outside today)

 

I drove for about 8 minutes with no noise at all and was happy. Then it started slowly again. 

It would make it when you accelerated and after changing 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. If the fourth gear after you are rolling pretty good. You do not hear it until you quickly accelerate.

 

I stopped, place it in neutral and clutch out. Rev the engine up high but not too much. It made the rattle/ knock on the high end for a few seconds until I left of the gas.

Then I put in Gear with Clutch Depressed. It did the same again.

 

I let the truck run, place the Ebrake on, and while my friend sat behind the wheel and held the brake. I crawled under the truck and had him accelerate. The noise was coming from the oil pan, but only on the high end acceleration. I checked it with my stethoscope and that is where the noise is the loudest.

 

I had the pan off earlier and did not see anything wrong, loose or broken. I cleaned pan, the filter and checked the teeth on the Oil Pump. Everything seemed okay. There was no big shavings in the pan either. Just really small particles (Gold dust type) in the sludge. Not that much.

 

There is no oil loss or overheating. The engine sounds great idling or a moderate speed. The engine is Dodge Flathead T37 from 1948 and has been rebuilt in 2007, Not that many miles, about 50,000

 

 

Something is making this happen after driving for a few minutes. I am at my wits end with the reason. I rea.lly appreciate any advice, and hope it is not something I have to rebuild the engine. Other than this the trucks runs great.

 

Thanks for any help at all. 

Respectfully

Curt

 

 

[lostviking]

Have you inspected the drive shaft?

[JBNeal]

What grade engine oil are you using?

[SSGRHYMER]

Thank you for replying

I inspected the drive shaft last year when we removed the tranny to replace the T/O bearing. All my propeller shafts received new u joints. I also put in a new oil seal of the shaft to the tranny. It is a short shaft, Then I have the shaft from front axel to Transfer case, but it does not spin unless I put in 4WD.

 

I am in Germany and the temperatures average 76 in the summer mostly and 10- 15 degrees in Mid Winter. I was advised to use 20W 50 oil, and I used Castor oil. I was using 10W 30 Castor oil when it started making the noise . Do you think that may be a problem.?  I let it idle to operating temperature and try it( Rev high). No Noise. After driving for a few minutes it starts.

 

I did notice that the temp gauge is very slow going back to zero on a warm day. Is that normal, could that be the problem?

Thank you for any advice

Cheers

Curt

[Jerry Roberts]

... " I did notice that the temp gauge is very slow going back to zero on a warm day. Is that normal, could that be the problem? ...

It takes a very long time for the coolant and engine block to cool off , that is normal . 

[SSGRHYMER]

Thank you Sir

That is one less worry for me, in the troubleshooting process.

Cheers

[Tooljunkie]

Truck will run with transmission, pressure plate and clutch removed. Warm it up good and try for noise again. 

[SSGRHYMER]

Well, after a long break and re-attacking the noise.

I replaced everything from the Pilot bushing clutch, and transmission. All new and looks good. Took a drive and the ticking was back.

I had a qualified Mechanic tell me it was a gear rattling somewhere and not the engine. Thank goodness.

I finally decided to pull the 6V starter ( was kind of old rebuild). when I took it out. The bearing was shot and the entire insides were loose and slopping around. Even if you held the arm. I had checked this earlier when looking to see if the gear was contacting flywheel. It was not, and the truck started fine.

 

My truck is 12V so I put a NOS rebuilt 12V starter with return spring on the arm. Noise was gone. Unbelievable!!!!!  The 6V Starter was KAPUT. It would start making the noise at a certain RPM and we figured that the bearing and internal parts were so worn, they were rattling at certain RPMs. 

 

I can say I fell more confident now that I know the truck intimately and learned a lot.  Thanks everyone for all your assistance and advice. Problem fixed.

The transmission needed replacing anyway. It was leaking from everywhere.  So was well worth it.

Hope everyone has a Safe, Healthy New Year.

Edited January 12, 2022 by SSGRHYMER

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

So I wanted ask you about that oil? Are you really using castor oil or Castrol GTX 20/50? The reason I’m asking because I worked with a few that claimed they used castor oil, I always took that as slang. 
 

not trying to start an oil debate though. Thanks, Kevin 

[SSGRHYMER]

Hi Kevin

I was using the GTX, but that was a typo on my part. Sorry for that, and I had to laugh.

I use Rotella T4 10W30 for that old engine and it is awesome.

Cheers

Thanks again?

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

  You should have told me yes—lol. Had a buddy that I stopped to visit about 25 years ago and he was mowing grass for a neighbor. He had been told to check the oil in the mower before starting. When I stopped by, there was a bottle of crisco on the driveway. I said “what are you doing with that”, he replied “had to add oil to the mower”. We have been laughing about it for years.