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Posted

1948 Chrysler Windsor C-38 6 passenger. So, which is the correct window crank? I’m assuming the second one, since the first is on the driver’s door and all the rest are like the second. 4FFAB4D0-BD67-4DE2-B46D-8CC42C582BB7.jpeg.1240eb7a8dab98e09065b88bcd69041c.jpeg3DA023B0-5EA9-47FF-834C-C9C3A1844390.jpeg.cd5f4477a293da7b8a46ca358415163a.jpeg

Posted

Yes, it's the second one that is for the 48 Chrysler Windsor.  As suggested treat them with extreme care.  They are very fragile especially because of their age.  The spring inside is usually the first thing to break.  Then the cast material ( pot metal maybe) gives way at the recessed hole that the pin sits in and spins,  allowing the "flipper" end to pivot.  It's pretty much impossible to rebuild them because of their design.  I've studied one of my spare broken ones and I have no idea how it was assembled.  It's possible that the Lucite plastic insert pops in afterwards perhaps.  I think you'd have to have the skill and tools of a watch maker to assemble them.  The Lucite portion of one of my broken flippers is sort of loose and I can move it slightly with a slot screw driver.   The all metal one ( first picture) can be taken apart by removing a tiny phillips screw. But only in some of those all metal ones.  Some of that later style are one piece.  One of my original Lucite "flippers" has a pin in it but only on the one side.  It doesn't go all the way through.  It's about half the diameter of a small size sewing needle. But the other 3 "flippers" don't have that pin.

 

The other vulnerable part is the shaft connecting the flipper to the handle. That short shaft is connected to the "flipper" and peened into the handle.   The hole in the end of it that that pin inside the "flipper" goes through is right at the very end of that short shaft and the metal is super thin so it usually breaks as well.  I think your assembly might be missing a nylon bushing between the brass connecting shaft and the crank.  I'll have another look at mine .  Interestingly, mine are all chrome ( connecting shaft) and yours is raw brass. 

 

It's a good practice to not use the "flipper" part of the window crank.  I use the end of my index finger and push it against the rounded over end of the crank handle. I'll crank 180 degrees, reposition my hand and crank the other 180 degrees.  It really isn't that hard to do and I don't even think about it as I'm cranking it anymore.  If you look closely at it. it's a wonder they still work after all these years because the internal pin, spring, and pivot arm are so tiny.

 

It's my understanding that the "flipper" style was used on the Windsor, Traveler, New Yorker.  But the Royal used the all metal style.  Then in 49 Chrysler switched completely to the all metal ones.  I've seen two slightly different shapes of the all metal ones too.  One style has one extra flute shape on it I believe. 

 

If you do find one on line that you're thinking about buying, they will probably want a fortune for it.  Try to get a super close detail picture of it showing the spring. Make sure it had both right angle sections on both ends of that tiny spring.  Make sure the socket casting around that pin isn't showing any signs of wear or fatigue.

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Posted

The plastic insert can be removed by carefully pushing the tiny pin in just enough to be able to pull the insert out.

These 1946-48 Chrysler lucite "lavalier" handles are very difficult to repair....handle with care!

They also are hard to find and very costly if found.

The 1949-53 all die cast chrome are very common and easy to find.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

The plastic insert can be removed by carefully pushing the tiny pin in just enough to be able to pull the insert out.

These 1946-48 Chrysler lucite "lavalier" handles are very difficult to repair....handle with care!

They also are hard to find and very costly if found.

The 1949-53 all die cast chrome are very common and easy to find.

 

Thanks for refreshing my memory.  How could I have forgotten that !!  Anyways, I remember now, when I was playing with the spare "flipper" end that fell off one of my spare cranks, that if I used a small pointed rod and pushed on that pin, the lucite section became looser,  but it still wouldn't come out.  I was tempted to keep prying, because it's not reuseable since the casting is destroyed that holds the pin in place.  But I was afraid of chipping that lucite.  Sounds silly since it's non functional, but I just hate wrecking anything related to old cars.   

Posted
26 minutes ago, chrysler1941 said:

Mine has the round Lucite flippers. Had to repair one. Lucite can be pulled out and back when heated gently with heat gun. 

 

So what's the story on those round Lucite ones?  I've only seen pictures of them.  They are a little more opaque with much more Lucite material, if I remember correctly.  What years and models were they for?

Posted
2 hours ago, harmony said:

Thanks for refreshing my memory.  How could I have forgotten that !!  Anyways, I remember now, when I was playing with the spare "flipper" end that fell off one of my spare cranks, that if I used a small pointed rod and pushed on that pin, the lucite section became looser,  but it still wouldn't come out.  I was tempted to keep prying, because it's not reuseable since the casting is destroyed that holds the pin in place.  But I was afraid of chipping that lucite.  Sounds silly since it's non functional, but I just hate wrecking anything related to old cars.   

 

 

I have three that one side of the inside metal pin holder in the flipper is broken off, and thus falls off the handle. I too have thought long and hard how to "rebuild" the metal so that won't fall apart instantly with any pressure. The metal may just be brittle with age and stress placed upon it from handling. That attachment portion takes a lot of beating rolling up and down in all angles. There is a relatively small set of people who would be very grateful for some soul who figures out how to repair or recast the flipper part. Maybe DCM?

Posted
19 minutes ago, wagoneer said:

 

 

I have three that one side of the inside metal pin holder in the flipper is broken off, and thus falls off the handle. I too have thought long and hard how to "rebuild" the metal so that won't fall apart instantly with any pressure. The metal may just be brittle with age and stress placed upon it from handling. That attachment portion takes a lot of beating rolling up and down in all angles. There is a relatively small set of people who would be very grateful for some soul who figures out how to repair or recast the flipper part. Maybe DCM?

I wonder if one of the newest style 3D printers with hi-tech features could produce one that would look and function exactly the same.

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Posted

I'm sure Walter P. never asked his design team if the window cranks would last 70 plus years.  They really are a very cleaver design feature. I remember the first time I saw them, my eyes opened wide and I was in awe. Every time I show them to someone for the first time, they're like " ARE YOU KIDDING ME!! "

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Posted
1 hour ago, chrysler1941 said:

Correct. These are 41-42 models 

Lucite is cast around two small rod which is part of lower section. They do give off an awful smell if handled too much ;)

s-l1600 (5).jpg

Good to know the years that the round versions were designed for.  

Posted

That old Chrysler plastic...used on knobs, dashes, handles and certain mottled steering wheels....

Vomit dog doo plastic...smells just like those late 50' and 60's screw driver handles.too..awful stink when it is  beginning to crack and break down and or in hot weather.   Ughhh

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

That old Chrysler plastic...used on knobs, dashes, handles and certain mottled steering wheels....

Vomit dog doo plastic...smells just like those late 50' and 60's screw driver handles.too..awful stink when it is  beginning to crack and break down and or in hot weather.   Ughhh

LOL I know. Not only Chrysler, friend's 49 Cadillac has an untouchable steering wheel. Odor right in his face. In the end he had to get it remolded $$$

Edited by chrysler1941
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