Engine Gasket Questions

[Bdblazer1978]

I'm getting ready to put my engine back together and I want to make sure I understand where a few gaskets go. I've read their are likely extra gaskets in my Fel-Pro kit. Looking at the below pics any help or confirmation of my guess would be great.

#1- Rear crankshaft bearing. The paper goes on the block and the metal next?  One on top and one on bottom? My engine only had one on the bottom when I disassembled, which I'm guessing explains all the oil outside the engine and on the transmission. Are the extra little pieces of plastic trash?

#2- No idea, please help.

#3- The felt is for a harmonic balancer? I dont have one so not needed?  Not sure about the larger o-ring. 

 

Thanks for all the help. 

[wallytoo]

#1 is not a crank bearing, it’s the rear main seal.  the small plastic parts fit in a groove on the block on either side of the rear main bearing cap.

[Bdblazer1978]

51 minutes ago, wallytoo said:

#1 is not a crank bearing, it’s the rear main seal.  the small plastic parts fit in a groove on the block on either side of the rear main bearing cap.

Thanks. I think were talking about the same place (the piece in my hand below), I just used the wrong name. Does the below pic look correct for the plastic placement?  Are their other places on the engine that require those plastic pieces?  Their were 8 of them in my kit.

Edited September 26, 2020 by Bdblazer1978

[wallytoo]

that’s where they go.  i don’t recall any others, but there might be another pair needed.  not 8, though.

[JBNeal]

that large o-ring may fit inside your oil pump...

 

additional information - Rear Main Rope Seal 

[DJ194950]

#1 and #2 two are both rear main oil seals- one or the other not both. Style of seal changed over the years, you got either style as what fits Your motor. The side seals the rubber small pieces also varied, you got all the various styles. Which fit the best? That is what you need. Usually obvious upon checking.

 

The O-ring appearing seal-  if it is actually a square shaped seal Is for the oil pump top cover seal. Can be somewhat hard to find separate. A regular O-ring seal will not work on the oil pump cover, I experienced trying and did not work for beans! I got lucky back some years and the original square seal still worked.

 

Your repair manual should cover both type rear main seal install . One seals the crank at the rear  output flange the other is a rope type seal that runs and seals on the crank rear journal face itself. Seems to my old memory that a third type setup was also used. But not close to 100 % on that . They were in my repair manual fowever>

Hope I make some sense.

 

 

DJ

[billrigsby]

19 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

I'm getting ready to put my engine back together and I want to make sure I understand where a few gaskets go.

 

Just wondering if you have a build thread going, my block is at the shop for 

hot tanking and magnafluxing, would like to follow along with a current engine build.

[Bdblazer1978]

@billrigsby I'm posting progress in my other thread "starting my B2C restoration".  Not sure if I'm the best person to follow, this is my first time rebuilding an engine and I'm sure I'm going to make a couple mistakes and have a ton of question. 

 

Bill

[billrigsby]

1 hour ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

@billrigsby I'm posting progress in my other thread "starting my B2C restoration".  Not sure if I'm the best person to follow, this is my first time rebuilding an engine and I'm sure I'm going to make a couple mistakes and have a ton of question. 

 

Bill

 

Well other than Yamaha 2-Stroke Twins, 

we are in the same boat, I am just sending off about

260 slides to be scanned from when I started this in the late 80's

(don't ask, I don't have a good reason), so I can start a thread of my own.  ?

[Bdblazer1978]

Thanks, for the info, my engine had the rope style. After looking through a lot of discussion on this forum about which type is better and the interchangeably of the rope/neoprene, I went ahead and replaced with the rope seals. I couldn't find much detail about the exact install procedures and my shop manual just tells me to carefully locate and to reference a picture. So I pried out the old rope, pushed the new rope in and tacked down the tabs to hold. I then trimmed the excess just slightly above the bracket. 

 

Once I installed the main seal I'm no longer able to turn the crank by hand. I did a search for recommended drag after main seal install, but also couldn't find any details. I can turn the crank by using a screwdriver across 2 of the flywheel bolts and everything feels smooth.

 

Anyone have any idea how much drag their should be?  Right now it's taking about 35 ft/lbs to turn the crank. 

 

Edited September 27, 2020 by Bdblazer1978

[kencombs]

4 hours ago, Bdblazer1978 said:

Thanks, for the info, my engine had the rope style. After looking through a lot of discussion on this forum about which type is better and the interchangeably of the rope/neoprene, I went ahead and replaced with the rope seals. I couldn't find much detail about the exact install procedures and my shop manual just tells me to carefully locate and to reference a picture. So I pried out the old rope, pushed the new rope in and tacked down the tabs to hold. I then trimmed the excess just slightly above the bracket. 

 

Once I installed the main seal I'm no longer able to turn the crank by hand. I did a search for recommended drag after main seal install, but also couldn't find any details. I can turn the crank by using a screwdriver across 2 of the flywheel bolts and everything feels smooth.

 

Anyone have any idea how much drag their should be?  Right now it's taking about 35 ft/lbs to turn the crank. 

 

IMO, as long as it turned freely with the mains installed and torqued, but before the rope seals, just ignore the added drag.  Just a 'feature' of that seal type.  Of course, they do need a generous amount of lube upon installation.   I use a really slippery assembly lube,  That helps a little.