1951 Dodge 1 ton B-3-D

[Joe D]

I have begun trying to make my truck road worthy. I can hardly wait to show it off in the community. The engine runs great but I have no brakes. I pulled the park brake cable today and it is totally stuck. I have it soaking in oil right now and hope that tomorrow it will be operational. I replaced the speedometer cable this morning. I have a few questions which I have not found answers for in this forum nor in the shop manual:

 

1. How does one remove the inside door handle and window crank? Both window mechanisms need repair or replacement (maybe just a little lube).

 

2. I will include a photo of the stamped information on the universal housing. I would like to know what my gear ratio is and I have not discovered any way to decode that information. I would like to have a little more speed. All of the seals and gaskets need to be replaced. I hope I can find a kit with everything I need for that.

 

3. The rod under the accelerator pedal strikes the floor before fully depressed almost like the rod is an inch or so short. I can see no way of adjusting this.

 

I have the floorboard out right now (in order to get to the speedometer cable on the transmission). I will clean and paint the underside before replacing. The next project will be the rear brakes (which I dread). Dodge brakes are a lot different than the brakes on an old Ford.

 

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[JBNeal]

Some of this stuff is in a factory shop manual and parts manual in detail, might not hurt to have one handy...for  example, axle identification is outlined showing where ratios are stamped depending on what your axle looks like...for the 1-tons, the stamped number is in the vicinity of the carrier fill plug, could be 4.3 or 4.1 or higher...

 

for them handles, there should be a spring-loaded escutcheon that can be pushed towards the door by prying a small screwdriver between the handle and where it meets the escutcheon...this should expose a pin that may fall out or need a good talkin'to for extraction, then the handle slips off of a square shaft...

 

You might have pancaked motor and transmission mounts causing the interference problem on your accelerator, or an issue with the linkage at the carburetor...

 

I don't think you'll find a kit for these Dodges, most of the time you'll need to buy each part individually, some parts are easier to find than others...

 

additional information - helpful hints 

[Joe D]

Thank you JBNeal! I guess I just have not gotten around to reading all the post here. These resources should keep me busy for a while. Again, I thank you.

[Brent B3B]

Good looking truck Joe. Welcome 
You mentioned the rear brakes, does this mean you have inspected the fronts already? In my opinion it is worth going through the whole system. 
 

my parking brake cable was also stuck on a B4, I ended up pulling the cable out, cleaning it with a wire wheel and working it in  a bench vice while lubricating it. Don’t loose those retainer clips ?

[Joe D]

Thank you Brent B3B. Yes, I have inspected the fronts. I think they need adjustment but the shoes and parts look fine. The rear brakes were dragging and the drums getting hot when I first drove the truck. I have repaired brakes on old Fords and Chevy's but this is my first experience with an old Dodge and they are a lot different.  When I first drove the truck I did not have a shop manual. I did manage to adjust the brake shoes so they did not drag...but they do not stop either. I have been studying the shop manual and as soon as I get the parking brake working and the floor boards re-installed I will be ready to work on brakes. If, maybe I should say when, I get the cable out of the sheath I will use your method for restoring it. Thanks again for the reply.

[9 foot box]

   I see that your truck came from Flathead county in Montana, Kalispell is the county seat. Nice truck, Joe. Worden 18, is working on a 49 one ton brakes. Finding his thread might help you. Rick D.

Edited September 7, 2020 by 9 foot box

[Joe D]

You are Correct 9 foot box. I have a friend who lives in Kalispell and with his help I bought the truck there last summer. Did not get it home to Texas until the first of August this year. You are in Whitehall? I have friends which just moved there in July. Love that country! Thanks for telling me about Worden 18. I will try to find his post. At this point, any help is appreciated.

[9 foot box]

   I went back to page 4 on this forum and found his thread.

[Joe D]

I just fond one of his post on brakes...will try to find the thread now.

[Worden18]

Joe, I've been slow to work on my brakes as I'm trying to get my 51 Meadowbrook back on the road.  Anyway, my link above.  Good youtube tutorial below.

 

[Merle Coggins]

Adding to what Mr. Neal said above on the escutcheons, I have found that a skinny needle nose pliers are helpful here. You may need a little screwdriver to get the escutcheon pushed back slightly, then slip in the needle nose pliers with one jaw on either side of the handle. this will push the escutcheon back on both sides to expose the pin. Usually a pick, or small Phillips screwdriver is all that’s needed to push out the pin. 

 

The number you have exposed on the differential is the casting number, or part number, of the housing. The ratio will be stamped into a flat pad. Some are on the top, some are near the fill plug as Mr Neal stated. 

[ggdad1951]

On 9/7/2020 at 7:51 AM, Merle Coggins said:

Adding to what Mr. Neal said above on the escutcheons, I have found that a skinny needle nose pliers are helpful here. You may need a little screwdriver to get the escutcheon pushed back slightly, then slip in the needle nose pliers with one jaw on either side of the handle. this will push the escutcheon back on both sides to expose the pin. Usually a pick, or small Phillips screwdriver is all that’s needed to push out the pin. 

 

 I use small blocks of wood to hold the escutcheon back as to not damage or scratch the finish on any parts.

[Joe D]

Thank you Worden 18. The video is helpful. Hope you get the Meadowbrook on the road again.

 

Thank you Merle Coggins. I poked and prodded on those escutcheons and could not figure it out. I remember seeing the pins so will attack that project as soon as I have time.

 

I have the floor boards cleaned and will go to town today for paint. Got the park brake cable cleaned and operational. Hope to adjust the park brake shoes and cable today and get the floor boards installed before the end of the week. Next week will be all about brakes. If I can get the brakes operational I can drive my truck to town.

[Joe D]

Thank you ggdad1951.