Looking for advice about an A833 swap.

[Fargone]

I don't want unrelated suggestions just facts related to an A833 transmission swap to a flat head six.  I have an A833 but it is the wrong version, in that it does not have the central shifter mount position. I'm left with a few options and none of them are great. The best option is to get the correct transmission, but I'm already heavily invested in this tranny.  The second best option and here's where I need advice. Can I fab up a bracket that moves me a few inches ahead?  I see several examples of people raising the shifter position in their swaps of the central shifter.  So my bracket could do both things move it forward and up. I know I'm going to have to alter the shift rods, but that looks a whole lot easier than the alternatives. Any thoughts? 

 

Just for clarity the first image shows my tranny mounted in the truck and cross member out, the string runs where my cross member mounts. The second image shows my tranny out and back on the floor it is the short version 23 3/16" long.  The third picture shows some of the tail shaft housing options, clearly mine appears to be the first one.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

I believe in your case knowing you wish not to buying a new tail shaft housing or locate another unit that you will need to get a piece of plate steel and mount it where the existing shifter mounts at the rear and at the front of this plate you will cut, drill and weld ears to attach to two of the bolts that hold the tail shaft to the gear case.  Then you can locate your shifter pad anywhere along this plate that you find comfortable.  the forward part will  have you dealing with an angle but I don't see any way to prevent that and you need to stay top and center of the bolting forward as you speedometer pinion gear assembly will be a the center and bottom bolts.  It would be nice to have two bolts at the forward position but there is a possibility that you could get by with one. 

[Merle Coggins]

I was thinking along those same lines...

[HotRodTractor]

Agreed. Fabricate a bracket to install the shifter where needed and work out the linkage issues. I suggest making a cardboard mock-up to get started - its probably going to take a couple of iterations to get the shifter close to where you want it and make the linkage all work as intended. Making a plate that attaches to the factory shifter mounting points and extends forward and up. stabilizing the front of that bracket using the tailshaft mounting bolts would be pretty easy as well.

[55 Fargo]

Hey Fargone yes a fabricated bracket or some other means of attachment to move forward.

The linkages need to be addressed too with the correct length geometric shape too.

No doubt its from a Volare or aspen with console and bucket seats?

[55 Fargo]

Here is the type that you need for an easier install.

[DJ194950]

Plymouthy's plan sounds good to me along with some of the others info.

 

I would add some braces for support to this plate back to one or two of the tailshaft housing to main case bolts. Shorten and tweak (or is that twerk?) the shift rods and maybe change the

angle of the shifter arms at the trans as needed also.

 

DJ

[Fargone]

On 8/30/2019 at 1:47 AM, Plymouthy Adams said:

I believe in your case knowing you wish not to buying a new tail shaft housing or locate another unit that you will need to get a piece of plate steel and mount it where the existing shifter mounts at the rear and at the front of this plate you will cut, drill and weld ears to attach to two of the bolts that hold the tail shaft to the gear case.  Then you can locate your shifter pad anywhere along this plate that you find comfortable.  the forward part will  have you dealing with an angle but I don't see any way to prevent that and you need to stay top and center of the bolting forward as you speedometer pinion gear assembly will be a the center and bottom bolts.  It would be nice to have two bolts at the forward position but there is a possibility that you could get by with one. 

if there was a tail shaft housing with the forward shifter position I'd buy it, but I'm not sure 1 exists for my shorter trans. My current plan was to have a machinist friend of mine craft me a bracket.

[Fargone]

20 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

Plymouthy's plan sounds good to me along with some of the others info.

 

I would add some braces for support to this plate back to one or two of the tailshaft housing to main case bolts. Shorten and tweak (or is that twerk?) the shift rods and maybe change the

angle of the shifter arms at the trans as needed also.

 

DJ

I am a little concerned about shift rod geometry this will be a one of kind.

[Fargone]

On 8/30/2019 at 8:44 AM, 55 Fargo said:

Here is the type that you need for an easier install.

When you raised your shifter did you have to alter your shifter rods or just make simple adjustments? And does it shift well after these changes?

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

your shift rod will need to be modified to the correct length as gauged in neutral position each tranny lever and with the shifter neutral and cross over also pinned..from there it is a simple cut to length and thread as needed...when you do this type of changes to a set up you must be prepared for these events and have the tools needed or at least available to you to complete the task...

Edited August 31, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams

[Fargone]

2 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

your shift rod will need to be modified to the correct length as gauged in neutral position each tranny lever and with the shifter neutral and cross over also pinned..from there it is a simple cut to length and thread as needed 

Believe me I know that the rods will be 3-4" too long

[55 Fargo]

3 hours ago, Fargone said:

When you raised your shifter did you have to alter your shifter rods or just make simple adjustments? And does it shift well after these changes?

 

This is totally factory 1979 D100

 

[55 Fargo]

On 8/31/2019 at 11:41 AM, Plymouthy Adams said:

your shift rod will need to be modified to the correct length as gauged in neutral position each tranny lever and with the shifter neutral and cross over also pinned..from there it is a simple cut to length and thread as needed...when you do this type of changes to a set up you must be prepared for these events and have the tools needed or at least available to you to complete the task...

 

Fargone, Heck im gonna look out for a different tailshaft for you.

Ever try running a Kijiji ad for it in Alberta?

[Fargone]

I have a bought several items on Kijiji but I haven't tried for this item, excellent idea.  The problem is I don't think the item exists. The mighty internet is full of data but lacking in actual facts, photos and measurements of the A833 transmission. I can not find a photo of the short trans with the forward shifter position. I will try Kijiji for the item and another complete trans and shifter combo.

[Fargone]

20 hours ago, 55 Fargo said:

This is totally factory 1979 D100

 

Good to know thanks.

[Fargone]

23 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

your shift rod will need to be modified to the correct length as gauged in neutral position each tranny lever and with the shifter neutral and cross over also pinned..from there it is a simple cut to length and thread as needed...when you do this type of changes to a set up you must be prepared for these events and have the tools needed or at least available to you to complete the task...

My thinking was to reposition the shifter with a custom bracket to the approximate position of the centralized factory shifter and maybe raise it an inch. My hope is the shift rods will not require NASA to resize.  If I maintain the shifter position relative to it's existing position (moving it forward only, not left or right) I should only have to shorten the rods not rebend or get overly fancy with design. That is my hope anyway.

[Plymouthy Adams]

just keep in mind that when lifting the lever position..you will be lifting the pivoting point of the rods in the process...you will have plenty of meat/length with the original long shifter rods that if you have to incorporate a step bend in order to keep the rods parallel to the levers on the transmission shifting shaft....you wish to retain this straight back and forth motion of the shifting levers to the levers on the shift shaft of the transmission itself so to avoid any dragging issues that often comes into play with a rod moving at an angle form above and or below...you can see this very action in original shift rods and the reason for the funky bends and angles often found in many shifting rods....it is like phasing a driveline..both shifter and tranny can be on different levels as long as you bend the rods to maintain this parallel line in movement of the rod......remember, reverse lever is usually at an angle...easier to work this as it is not rocking forward and back position as it is a single gear select.  

[SmokeyC3]

Off topic vehicle ,but I did this one. The bracket has to be beefy enough or it will flex and eventually break. Shift linkages took some fiddling and they weren't all correct on the first try. The reverse link has some pretty hard bends that flexed when shifting so it got a gusset plate added. With a little patience it's doable.

[55 Fargo]

11 hours ago, SmokeyC3 said:

Off topic vehicle ,but I did this one. The bracket has to be beefy enough or it will flex and eventually break. Shift linkages took some fiddling and they weren't all correct on the first try. The reverse link has some pretty hard bends that flexed when shifting so it got a gusset plate added. With a little patience it's doable.

Looks good.

What bell is that? What engine you running?

See the A833 is bolted on top 2 holes to bell, what about the bottom 2 holes?

 

[Fargone]

23 hours ago, SmokeyC3 said:

Off topic vehicle ,but I did this one. The bracket has to be beefy enough or it will flex and eventually break. Shift linkages took some fiddling and they weren't all correct on the first try. The reverse link has some pretty hard bends that flexed when shifting so it got a gusset plate added. With a little patience it's doable.

Awesome job man!

[Fargone]

I mocked up a cardboard template today it looks a lot like Smokeys… well except his is steel and actually works!

Edited September 3, 2019 by Fargone
missing text

[Fargone]

12 hours ago, 55 Fargo said:

Looks good.

What bell is that? What engine you running?

See the A833 is bolted on top 2 holes to bell, what about the bottom 2 holes?

 

Sorry I missed the second part of your post. The engine was the original 237 flathead 6 now its 251ish the bell housing is the original 1/2 ton unit for the 3 speed column shift. I have the Aok adapter plate the trans bolts are all in. You had the same problem I currently have, I'm glad to see it's been done before!

[cavisco1]

GM used this same transmission with GM’s own 10-spline input shaft, input bearing and retainer:
o 1981 to 1986 Chevrolet 2- and 4- wheel drive pickups and Suburban (3.09:1 ratio first gear)
o General Engines designated this transmission code MY6.

This may open up some options for tailshafts and shifters. I will leave further research to you.

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, cavisco1 said:

GM used this same transmission with GM’s own 10-spline input shaft, input bearing and retainer:
o 1981 to 1986 Chevrolet 2- and 4- wheel drive pickups and Suburban (3.09:1 ratio first gear)
o General Engines designated this transmission code MY6.

This may open up some options for tailshafts and shifters. I will leave further research to you.

What someone putting GM parts in a Mopar???