Fuel Pump differences

[40desoto]

While starting my engine for the  initial heat cycle  we noticed that the fuel pump was not pumping.  Im assuming its in the original model fuel pump on the 1954 Chrysler 265 engine because it has the small wingnut screw on the top to hold the heatshield in place.  Ive seen many in catalogs with similar style but without the wing nut thing-a-ma-bobber.

Im also considering a rebuilt kit but also concern with purchasing the correct kit or replacement pump. 

Major concern beside the wing nut is the fuel PSI reting.

 

I attempted to use an electrical but created too much pressure and filled the carbs.

Im running an AOK triple intake with three Carter BnB carbs.  Not sure if this make a difference or not. 

[40desoto]

[40desoto]

Also, saw one similar on ebay that states it might need rebuilt to work with todays fuels.  Is there a difference in pumps and rebuilt kits. I did see another Ad that states single stroke for

modern fuels.

[Andydodge]

I'd be checking whether any rebuild kit/rubber diaphram is suitable for the fuels used today....here in Oz we can still get non ethanol fuel, however from what I've read on here thats not possible in the USA so that would be my 1st concern.......andyd

[soth122003]

Check with Rock Auto. The sell pumps and kits. Hey Andy, we can get ethanol free gas here but it cost about a dollar more than ethanol.

 

Joe Lee

[Andydodge]

Yeh, similar to what we have here........ethanol fuel is about $1.30 per Litre, 91 octane is about $1.40 p/L, 95 octane is about $1.50 and 98 octane is about $1.70per litre, 4.25 litres to the Imperial gallon which is slightly more than the US gallon........my Dodge uses 98 which works out to be about $7.00 per gallon..............yikes!!.........andyd

[Merle Coggins]

Then and Now Automotive has excellent fuel pump rebuild kits, and their customer support is top notch. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ I even had a pump that I couldn't fine any good identification marks on. I was able to send them pictures and they identified it and told me which kit to purchase. That one is now my 'back-up'/'spare' pump.

Also, on my pump there is a long stud with the wing nut at the top for my heat shield. This never comes with a new pump. If you purchase a new pump you would need to remove the long stud and put it in place of one of the cover screws on the new pump.

I would highly advise against a new pump, and instead opt for rebuilding the current one with a kit from Then and Now. New pumps have a tendency to have their pivot pin walk out over time. The kits from Then and Now have a new pin with retainer clips to prevent this.

[40desoto]

18 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Then and Now Automotive has excellent fuel pump rebuild kits, and their customer support is top notch. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/ I even had a pump that I couldn't fine any good identification marks on. I was able to send them pictures and they identified it and told me which kit to purchase. That one is now my 'back-up'/'spare' pump.

Also, on my pump there is a long stud with the wing nut at the top for my heat shield. This never comes with a new pump. If you purchase a new pump you would need to remove the long stud and put it in place of one of the cover screws on the new pump.

I would highly advise against a new pump, and instead opt for rebuilding the current one with a kit from Then and Now. New pumps have a tendency to have their pivot pin walk out over time. The kits from Then and Now have a new pin with retainer clips to prevent this.

Thank you. Using the resources provided on their site I identified the part number, called them and they were very patient and understanding when I explained that I’d be testing other things of not sure if if plan on installing a mechanical or electrical pump.

[40desoto]

I ordered the kit from Then and Now Automotive, rebuilt the pump, installed and the pump is still not pumping fuel.  I made a mark with paint on top of the pump lever to make sure the cam is actually hitting the lever. When I took out the pump the scuffed paint proved that  It is moving it but no fuel.  

When I put the pump on the bench  and manually pushed the lever back n forth I do feel sucking from the pump.  What else could it be thats failin?

 

Im getting really tempted to simply run an electrical pump.  What have others done? what pump and psi is recommended?

 

 

[Los_Control]

Have you verified that the line or the tank is not plugged?

A simple test would be a 1 gallon gas can sitting on the ground, then run a rubber line from your pump to the can.

If it now pumps fuel, your issue is upstream. A electric pump will not fix it.

 

It seems plausible ... A cam can be worn enough to remove the test paint, but to worn to actually move the lever enough to pump fuel?

 

I would think you would want between 2 - 4 pounds fuel pressure. Pretty sure you will want to invest in a quality fuel pressure regulator along with the electric fuel pump.

I think I have read that they make some low pressure pumps just for carburated cars ... Think I would want a good regulator anyways. Just my opinion.

 

[YukonJack]

Check your gas cap. If it isn't a vented cap it could be restricting flow. Remove your gas cap and try it again. I'm using an electric pump on my 47 Plymouth with a regulator by the carb. Electric pump should be mounted close to the gas tank. You definitely need a regulator with an electric pump. If you go electric, get a rotary pump instead of one with a diaphram.

[Sam Buchanan]

The gas cap vent can be easy to overlook, the cap on my P15 incorporates four tiny vents in the perimeter of the cap. They are connected to the two openings near the cap latching arms. Corrosion can do a number on this little vents.

 

 

While I was chasing fuel delivery problems (engine randomly stopping) I drilled an 1/8" hole in the tank filler neck to make sure the tank was vented:

 

 

The final solution to my fuel saga involved all new fuel lines, new fuel tank, mechanical pump block-off plate, new electric pump and filter. The car has been totally reliable since. 

 

I wanted to use a Facet diaphram pump because I've had great service from them on aircraft and cars for twenty years....but they don't make a 6v version. I ended up with a 6v Carter rotary pump (regulator has not been necessary), and yes, it needs to be located near the tank (no need to ask me and AAA how I know this......).

 

 

Edited September 9, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[40desoto]

4 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Have you verified that the line or the tank is not plugged?

A simple test would be a 1 gallon gas can sitting on the ground, then run a rubber line from your pump to the can.

If it now pumps fuel, your issue is upstream. A electric pump will not fix it.

 

It seems plausible ... A cam can be worn enough to remove the test paint, but to worn to actually move the lever enough to pump fuel?

 

I would think you would want between 2 - 4 pounds fuel pressure. Pretty sure you will want to invest in a quality fuel pressure regulator along with the electric fuel pump.

I think I have read that they make some low pressure pumps just for carburated cars ... Think I would want a good regulator anyways. Just my opinion.

 

Hello LosControl.  My apologies for not clarifying- The engine is on an engine stand with a fual can on the floor. 

 

Thanks for your input on the pressure and the regulator idea.