12V starter from1954 Windsor

[40desoto]

Hello, Im sure this is a no brainer question but wanted to get some expert advice.

 

I purchased a 1954 265 motor with a starter that had been converted to 12volt.  When I tested the starter I noticed that the wires became very hot and the starter solenoid would smoke a bit when spinning a couple of times for about 1 second each spin.  In my experience starter cables would only get that hot and starters smoke when attempting many, many times.

 

Here is my questions -   Is this smoking normal and if not what can cause it.  Also, I disconnected the starter and has been put away for some time and I didnt keep track of where the wires go to since all other starters that Ive dealt with have markings on them to determine where the  positive,negative , ignition switch wires go to.  Not this starter.  Does anyone have a diagram?

 

 

Edited March 25, 2019 by 40desoto
image

[Plymouthy Adams]

did you place a current meter of sufficient amperage to read the current draw?   Often the high drain of current over and above the listed current for the model is due to a dragging armature due to elongated rear bushing.  It is hard to make a call without some reading to ascertain if you got wear or possible oil contamination from sitting/handling.  The starter should also have a green ID tag if 12 volts...

[greg g]

What size primary cables are currently in place?

[T120]

Looking at the starter motor in your photo I would connect one your heavy battery cables (positive) to the bottom right large nut of the solenoid and the other heavy battery cable (negative) to the chassis of the starter motor secured under one of the bolts on the right. A smaller cable, "jumper" from the large bottom right  nut (positive) to the center top smaller nut is the connection that would duplicate the intermittent operation of the ignition switch or starter button to operate the starter motor.

Edited March 25, 2019 by T120

[DJ194950]

You have got some problem for Sure!

 

Electrical parts  should Never smoke!!!

 

The others have gave some good things that Must be checked!

 

Sounds like you will have a great project, just do not burn things now!  ?

 

DJ

[garbagestate 44]

That solenoid shouldn't be too hard to replace. Lots of similar solenoids on ebay. It's the Autolite solenoids for 46-48 Chryslers that cost you your firstborn or your soul when ypu can find them.

[40desoto]

9 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

did you place a current meter of sufficient amperage to read the current draw?   Often the high drain of current over and above the listed current for the model is due to a dragging armature due to elongated rear bushing.  It is hard to make a call without some reading to ascertain if you got wear or possible oil contamination from sitting/handling.  The starter should also have a green ID tag if 12 volts...

Thanks Adams.  It didnt have a green tag but did have an engraved  12v stamp on the body.  The PO mentioned that he got it converted to 12v.

thanks for the info, Im going to run the correct guage wire and try it again.  Its been a while but i believe when I purchased it I ran the correct wire size and it still smoked.

 

I plan on starting the motor on a stand so the engine will not be grounded to the car.

what would be the correct wire size for the positive and negative cables?

 

[40desoto]

5 hours ago, T120 said:

Looking at the starter motor in your photo I would connect one your heavy battery cables (positive) to the bottom right large nut of the solenoid and the other heavy battery cable (negative) to the chassis of the starter motor secured under one of the bolts on the right. A smaller cable, "jumper" from the large bottom right  nut (positive) to the center top smaller nut is the connection that would duplicate the intermittent operation of the ignition switch or starter button to operate the starter motor.

Thank you T120. Ive grouded it via one of the small bolts that holds the  solenoid to the starter.

would this be good enough ground?

[T120]

6 hours ago, 40desoto said:

Thank you T120. Ive grouded it via one of the small bolts that holds the  solenoid to the starter.

would this be good enough ground?

That should work. Normally when mounted on the engine, the starter would of course get it's ground through the engine block. In the photo you appear to have the starter motor secured in a bench vise. If you have a remote starter button you can use it to jumper between the large nut on the lower right (positive) and the smaller upper center nut on the solenoid, otherwise just use a  small wire jumper between these two connections on the solenoid to operate the starter. In any case as mentioned there should not be any smoke … (your temporary cables supplying power to the starter motor should be at least as heavy gauge as a good set of battery jumper cables)

Edited March 26, 2019 by T120

[40desoto]

8 hours ago, T120 said:

That should work. Normally when mounted on the engine, the starter would of course get it's ground through the engine block. In the photo you appear to have the starter motor secured in a bench vise. If you have a remote starter button you can use it to jumper between the large nut on the lower right (positive) and the smaller upper center nut on the solenoid, otherwise just use a  small wire jumper between these two connections on the solenoid to operate the starter. In any case as mentioned there should not be any smoke … (your temporary cables supplying power to the starter motor should be at least as heavy gauge as a good set of battery jumper cables)

Thank you.  I will try again using 4 gauge battery cables.  To be on the save side I might just take it to get rebuilt by an electrical shop.  Especially since I'll have to revome the full flow oil filter if I ever need to remove the starter in the future.