Exhaust baffle spring

[willits18]

Is there supposed to be a chassis ground on 6 volt systems? I rewired most everything under the hood and all of the front and rear lighting systems. I ran a new ground from the positive battery terminal to the transmission just as was original. There was no chassis ground, and as near as I can tell-there never was. I didn't add one as I thought that was how a volt was supposed to be. I have a 52 Packard also with a 6 volt positive ground as well and it doesn't have a chassis ground either. I don't know if that would cause any problems or not. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

No...  but I'd install a chassis ground.?

[Merle Coggins]

Your “bench test” is only testing the accelerator pump. That part only comes into play when you first step on the throttle pedal. Once under way, as steady throttle, your engine is getting gas through the main jet. It may be partially plugged. 

[willits18]

When I rebuilt the carb I soaked it for 3 days and sprayed Gumout Carb cleaner through the jet and every other opening and port. I could have left some dirt or small debris in there. I am going to go back through the carb just to be sure. Thanks Merle and everyone else. 

[JPP]

I had a very similar problem with my rebuild.  Changed everything start up no problem, idle no problem, but under load no so great.  What I discovered is that the wire to the coil was not getting the voltage it needed.  So i replaced that wiring and everything came alive.  The coil has input and out specs, easy to check with volt meter, i just waited for it to be way down on my list of causes.  Good Luck.

[Blue]

1 hour ago, JPP said:

I had a very similar problem with my rebuild.  Changed everything start up no problem, idle no problem, but under load no so great.  What I discovered is that the wire to the coil was not getting the voltage it needed.  So i replaced that wiring and everything came alive.  The coil has input and out specs, easy to check with volt meter, i just waited for it to be way down on my list of causes.  Good Luck.

I agree with JPP. It certainly could be a clogged main jet, but I would still look at the coil. The spark test only shows there is spark. Use a voltmeter to ensure proper voltage.

 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-test-a-spark-plug-ignition-coil-by-eduardo-ruelas

 

[FlashBuddy]

Since you're rebuilding the carb, get a piano wire or similar - I used the cleaning wire from my Harbor Freight paint gun cleaning kit, poke it into the tiny holes.

[willits18]

Update. The weather is more conducive to outdoor work here in Nebraska-I only have a MODEL T garage. I put a timing light on it and made an extension so I could advance the throttle while watching the timing light. When I advanced the throttle the timing mark stayed where it was-it didn't advance.  pulled the distributor and took it apart. There is a mechanical advance there. It  was not visible from the top. The advance was all gummed up with oil and sludge. I cleaned it and oiled it. It now works fine. The truck has more power now-I made it up a steep hill in 3rd gear!  Thanks to all. I will post a picture of my truck. Thanks again, Tracy in Omaha. 

[willits18]

I converted my B2D to 12 volts.  What an improvement. Everything came to life!  It solved the poor-high end performance. Everything seems to be working fine now except the heater blower motor. It worked on 6 volts so I put in as voltage reducer. It won't work on 12 volts with the reducer.  maybe I should look for a 12 volt blower motor.  How far into the future should I look for a 12 volt blower motor that will still fit in the box? 

[Don Coatney]

 

 

 

[willits18]

Thanks Don. 

[willits18]

How fast do these go??  I converted to 12 volts and that definitely helped the loss of power in the first 3 gears. When I'm in 4th gear it seems like it is still lacks some  power. I could only get up to 40 mph on a downgrade in 4th gear. I put in a 12 volt electric fuel pump. I took the filter out of the glass bulb before the carb. It has a clear plastic filter. It looks like the filter is struggling to keep up. The glass bowl however remains full all the time. One thing I noticed is that when I turn in the air bleed screw on the carb it doesn't seem to get richer. I pulled the plugs to do a compression test thinking that it may have a couple of bad valves. It does not.  All cylinders were between 120-130.  When I put the plugs back in I noticed that they are all very clean-look like new! No carbon-they didn't look like they had been used.  On a positive note it is running better in the first 3 gears. I wonder if I should go back to the mechanical fuel pump. The electric pump is rated at 4-7 psi. I haven't tested it yet. 

[willits18]

It seems to take a long time (about 3 miles of driving!) to get the engine good and warmed up. The heat riser is not working. I have ordered a new spring and will replace it. After the truck is good and warm it will go 50-55mph on the highway. I don't know if they were meant to go much faster.  I also got a new mechanical fuel pump and am running the electric from the tank to the mechanical pump and the mechanical pump to the carb. That seemed to make a difference as well. 

[The Oil Soup]

Here is the same part at Oreillys.  https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/murray-climate-control-5217/lighting---electrical-16777/motors---actuators-25143/blower-motor-12457/0da7cd2eedaa/murray-climate-control-blower-motor/pm354/4781897/1970/ford/ltd?q=Pm354&pos=0

[willits18]

Thanks Guru.  I already picked one up.  I am going to install this along with new glass and a rubber kit for winter driving. It has the deep cleat rear snow tires. 

[willits18]

I rebuilt the carb again and raised the float level a little higher than specs. It runs better at higher speeds and doesn't flood. That seems to be the problem-starving at higher speeds. Is there anything else I can do to get more fuel at higher speeds other than a different carb?