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willits18

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Everything posted by willits18

  1. I did set the timing to 10 before. Seems to help around town. I haven't taken it on the highway yet. A vacuum advance will not help increase speed? I didn't know that. As far as the rear end ratio I was looking at the service manual which lists 3.90 for most including mine. Is there another way to tell without lifting the rear end?
  2. I converted the truck to 12 volts last year. It does get up to 55-60 downhill, but 50 is all I get on the level-sounds like that is about right for my setup. I was looking at converting to electronic ignition. I saw one on the internet for around $200 complete with the vacuum advance distributor. I might try that. I already put a new mechanical fuel pump on and backed it up with a Holley electric to the pump. That did seem to help-I could barely get to 40 before! I don't want to change the gearing. My manual says it is 3.90 and that seems about right to me. I will try the electronic and let you know. It will be a while though as my neighbors 100' tree just fell on my garage and machine shop. A total loss along with 2 of my classic cars.
  3. I have a 1950 B2D pickup. I have gone through everything including the fuel system and electrical and the truck only goes about 50 mph. I don't know if that was common back in the day for this truck or not. When I am on the highway and go up a steep grade it will drop down to 40. This truck does not have a vacuum advance on the distributor-from the factory it looks like! Can I put a newer distributor with a vacuum advance on this truck. I don't know if it's possible but and electronic ignition would be even better! I just put one on my 65 Plymouth and it really helps! All help appreciated. Thanks, Tracy in Omaha.
  4. Thanks Guru. I already picked one up. I am going to install this along with new glass and a rubber kit for winter driving. It has the deep cleat rear snow tires.
  5. It seems to take a long time (about 3 miles of driving!) to get the engine good and warmed up. The heat riser is not working. I have ordered a new spring and will replace it. After the truck is good and warm it will go 50-55mph on the highway. I don't know if they were meant to go much faster. I also got a new mechanical fuel pump and am running the electric from the tank to the mechanical pump and the mechanical pump to the carb. That seemed to make a difference as well.
  6. How fast do these go?? I converted to 12 volts and that definitely helped the loss of power in the first 3 gears. When I'm in 4th gear it seems like it is still lacks some power. I could only get up to 40 mph on a downgrade in 4th gear. I put in a 12 volt electric fuel pump. I took the filter out of the glass bulb before the carb. It has a clear plastic filter. It looks like the filter is struggling to keep up. The glass bowl however remains full all the time. One thing I noticed is that when I turn in the air bleed screw on the carb it doesn't seem to get richer. I pulled the plugs to do a compression test thinking that it may have a couple of bad valves. It does not. All cylinders were between 120-130. When I put the plugs back in I noticed that they are all very clean-look like new! No carbon-they didn't look like they had been used. On a positive note it is running better in the first 3 gears. I wonder if I should go back to the mechanical fuel pump. The electric pump is rated at 4-7 psi. I haven't tested it yet.
  7. I converted my B2D to 12 volts. What an improvement. Everything came to life! It solved the poor-high end performance. Everything seems to be working fine now except the heater blower motor. It worked on 6 volts so I put in as voltage reducer. It won't work on 12 volts with the reducer. maybe I should look for a 12 volt blower motor. How far into the future should I look for a 12 volt blower motor that will still fit in the box?
  8. Update. The weather is more conducive to outdoor work here in Nebraska-I only have a MODEL T garage. I put a timing light on it and made an extension so I could advance the throttle while watching the timing light. When I advanced the throttle the timing mark stayed where it was-it didn't advance. pulled the distributor and took it apart. There is a mechanical advance there. It was not visible from the top. The advance was all gummed up with oil and sludge. I cleaned it and oiled it. It now works fine. The truck has more power now-I made it up a steep hill in 3rd gear! Thanks to all. I will post a picture of my truck. Thanks again, Tracy in Omaha.
  9. When I rebuilt the carb I soaked it for 3 days and sprayed Gumout Carb cleaner through the jet and every other opening and port. I could have left some dirt or small debris in there. I am going to go back through the carb just to be sure. Thanks Merle and everyone else.
  10. Is there supposed to be a chassis ground on 6 volt systems? I rewired most everything under the hood and all of the front and rear lighting systems. I ran a new ground from the positive battery terminal to the transmission just as was original. There was no chassis ground, and as near as I can tell-there never was. I didn't add one as I thought that was how a volt was supposed to be. I have a 52 Packard also with a 6 volt positive ground as well and it doesn't have a chassis ground either. I don't know if that would cause any problems or not.
  11. I did totally tear down the carb. I will just take the cap off and see how it runs. It is not a pressurized system and shouldn't matter. The tune up parts are all new. I will pull a plug and short it against the block to see how the spark is. As far as I know there is no other way to test the spark output. Like I said before when I bench tested the carb it squirted, but I felt that it was not what it should be, however I am used to doing 2& 4 barrels and have never done a 1 barrel before.
  12. The cap looks very old. I doubt it is original but probably from the last century for sure! Would the vacuum (if the cap was bad) affect the fuel pressure test that I just did?
  13. I have good fuel pressure to the carb-6 PSI. That is just a bit high but the carb is not leaking and the engine doesn't seem to be running rich at all. I probably need to go back into the carb. I rebuilt it 3 months ago, but have never rebuilt a Stromberg or a 1 barrel. Everything seemed to work ok. I cleaned out all of the ports and the jet. When I did the squirt test it squirted but I didn't think it squirted like it should. It just seemed a little weak. I have rebuilt many carbs before, but never a Stromberg or a 1 barrel. Anything special I should look for or give special attention to?
  14. I had 36-40 in my B2 shop manual. I will set back to 35 to be safe.
  15. The entire fuel system has been replaced. Tank, lines from tank to carb, filters, and new pump. I watched the glass filter bowl fill up with the pump on engine off and it seemed to fill ok. I haven't tried the original pump. I would have to bypass it and reconnect to the original pump. I will pressure test the pump. If I remember it should be between 3 1/2-5 psi. The engine runs great in the driveway. It idles good and revs good until I put it on the street.
  16. I replaced the cap, rotor, points, and condenser, along with the plugs and wires. I also put the waterproof wire setup on to better guard the plugs. The distributor felt fine. Smooth bearing or bushing-no lateral movement. Set timing and rechecked just yesterday. Still fine and no drift. I set points at .20 and plugs at .40.
  17. I tested the throttle linkage by placing a half concrete block on the pedal and checking the throw-travel. It was almost full throttle. I disconnected the rod from the carb lever and could only move the lever slightly. I am going to add about 1" to the throttle rod to make sure I get full throttle. As I remember there are no vacuum ports in the intake manifold surface. The gasket just has the 2 bolt holes. That being said the mixture is certainly bot rich. It feels like it is not getting enough gas. When I close the choke all the way it still does not get rich. When I rebuild carbs I bench test them doing a squirt test. This one squirted, but it didn't squirt as much as I would think that it should. I'm just not sure. I was going to add 1" to the accelerator rod and if that doesn't help I was going to go back through the carb. I have never worked on one of these, or any 1 barrel for that matter. I am just not sure what it takes to get enough gas to supply full power. I did not replace the advance springs. I really have never done that before. They are visible under the cap. I have not seen those on DCM or Roberts. I don't know of any other sites that sell the old Mopar flathead parts. I bought the electronic fuel pump from DCM. I didn't see any adjustment info or even any place on the pump to do so.
  18. When I put in the electric fuel pump I bypassed the old mechanical pump. I ran the new line along the inner fender well. It is no where near the engine. I'll try the lacquer thinner.
  19. Merle is correct. There is no vacuum advance, and there is no place for piping or tubing for one. I will check the throttle linkage. I had to do quite a bit of work on it to get it to move. There is not much pedal above the floor. I may try to add some length to the rod that comes through the floor to be sure. I already replaced the stone fuel filter element with a visible plastic one. Thanks Merle and Reg.
  20. I have a 1950 B2D that I just got running and have driven around the neighborhood. It doesn't seem to have power when under load. I rebuilt the carb, fresh tune up, set the timing, and replaced the brakes. I also did a chassis overhaul on it replacing the king pins in the front, repacking the front wheel bearings, replacing the rear axle grease seals, and drained the rear end and new grease (90w oil). All of the wheels turned freely in the driveway. I did notice that there is a baffle in the exhaust manifold that seems to turn freely. It has a weighted cam on the outside. Isn't there supposed to be a spring hooked up to that to help it to open? I have never worked on this particular truck, but do remember on the 60-70's cars that this restricted the exhaust when cold to help warm up the engine faster. If someone has a picture of their similar setup it would help to either let me know that it doesn't need one, or that it does and it is missing. It has a 230 flathead 6 cyl. engine. I bought a new exhaust system from DCM. It does look small. It is the one that they had listed for that truck. I have not tried to disconnect the exhaust. All help greatly appreciated! Thanks, Tracy.
  21. As near as I can tell there has never been any electrical connections at all. There is no motor in it. There is a cable that connects to it from the dash panel on the inside. It seems like some kind of venting system but there is no tube to the interior of the truck. The truck was a farm truck in south central Nebraska for over 50 years. I have just never seem any thing like it before. I will probably have to take it off to see what it is and does-if I can figure it out!?
  22. I was talking about the round thing with 2 tubes coming out of the top just to the right of the regulator.
  23. I have never seen one of these before. This is under the hood of my 1950 Dodge B2D pickup truck. This is the first Dodge truck this old I have worked on. There is a cable and wire to open and close this in the cab. I couldn't find anything about this in my shop manual. It doesn't look like any type of heating device. There is a vent in the cowl. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Tracy.
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