furiousgeorge Posted July 26, 2018 Report Share Posted July 26, 2018 Hello, I am mostly done getting a Rusty Hope disc brake conversion onto my '50 1 ton (I swapped in 1/2 ton spindles). I've ran into a few problems that the search couldn't help much with. First is the brake hose. I have them attached to the hard line in the stock location, but the hose rubs on the tire/rim when turned to the limiter (for example when the passenger side turns all the way to the right.). I double checked the part numbers and I have the right hose, and it can only be put on the caliper one way. The hoses had a bracket on them, but the instructions said to remove them, so I did. Does anyone have a picture of how they put this together? Second is more of an annoyance then anything. The bearing dust caps fit pretty good the first time they went on (I lost the cotter pins, so I put the caps on to keep junk out of there until I got new ones), now they're too loose to stay in the hub. They were just on the shelf ones that matched the part number provided. I've never come across this issue before, maybe they were the wrong size? I'm assuming that these problems are my own fault, as the kit and parts list provided nearly just fell together up to this point. I figured I'd try my luck here before bothering Charlie with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 26, 2018 Report Share Posted July 26, 2018 I suggest you call Charlie first. He may have dealt with these issues before. He could answer these questions better than anyone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted July 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 Ok, I sent him an email. I imagine it’ll be a simple solution that I’m overlooking, but it’ll be good to get his input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 No chance you put the callipers on backwards? I messed up on my first wheel way back when I did it, other then that they are a bit short I found Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted July 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 I have them in with the bleeder screw pointing up, as per the instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Peterson Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 12 hours ago, furiousgeorge said: I have them in with the bleeder screw pointing up, as per the instructions. Always have bleeder screws in the up position or you won't be able to bleed all the air in your brake lines/calipers...or you end up with a spongey pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 As per the dust cap being loose-- I have dealt with this many a time by either using medium size channel lock pliers to gently pry a little at a time outward all the way around on the lip of the cap. Preferred method of mine is to have a piece of pipe that is only slightly smaller than the ID of the cap clamped in a vise and use a small hammer to spread out the cap outer lip as before. Use a socket just big enough to clear the dome part of the cap that will ride on the lip and tap the cap in. Just my old way I used! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 On mine, the stock hole where the brake line came through the rails on the passenger side was like you said, in a position where the tire may rub it and just as bad, stretch the line when turned the opposite direction. I re-drilled the hole through the frame to be close to center with the axle to alleviate the problem on that side. The drivers side is a bit if a problem as you have two brackets, one for the steering gear, and the other for the brace from the frame to the cross-member. There was already a hole on the drivers side in about the right location so I used it. It may have been the wrong hole as I totally disassembled my truck to the rails and didn't take pictures of it. I had to replace the brake lines anyway as they were cut. Someone had cut them when they removed the engine. The hoses that Charlie suggests work fine, but they are a bit on the short side and could use an inch or two IMHO. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 I used longer hoses also on the Suburban. I'm going to check my hoses on the truck and make certain I don't have a problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 Mine was the same as johnsartain and worked fine but I also ran all new brake line along with a Cherokee master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jj1981 Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 Do you know the number for the Cherokee master cylinder u used thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsartain Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 Rock Auto part number 1315943. You will have to make a 1/4" mounting plate to adapt the two hole master cylinder to the three hole mounting surface on the bellhousing. Unless you have the brake push rod you may have to fabricate one. Master Cylinder https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1315943&parttype=1836https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1315943&parttype=1836 Yoke Clevis, pin, and rod ordered from MSC Direct 82055070 COARSE PITCH 3/8-16 GIBRALTAR TAPPED YOKE 67932723 3/8" DIA X 1 1/8" CLEVIS PIN PLAIN STEEL 70872098 3/8" DIA.X36 8620 STEEL COLD FIN ROUND Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted September 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 I ended up drilling new holes in the frame, and it looks good to go now. How did you get the Cherokee master in with the adapter plate? On my truck theres barely enough room for the stock mc before it hits the steering box, and the Cherokee one is a fair bit longer. Also, one last question, is a proportioning valve nessesary for the disc swap? The instructions say that they’ll work with a stock mc, but don’t mention needing the proportioning valve or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 9, 2018 Report Share Posted September 9, 2018 I honestly can’t see how the stock master would handle front disc, but I never tried. You have to put the adapter on first, then slide the master down, but I put mine in as a unit with the proportioning valve, which you must have to ensure proper pressure front and back, with the front doing the brunt of course. if you have the right Cherokee mc it’s not much bigger at all then stock..tight but fits for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furiousgeorge Posted September 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 Is there a specific spot the proportioning valve should be installed? I do have one, and I figured I’d put it along the frame where the stock front/rear splitter is. Looking at my ‘48 1/2 ton parts truck, the steering box is bolted directly to the frame rail (inside of the rail), where on my ‘50 1 ton, its in the same place along the rail, but instead of being bolted right to the frame rail, it sits outward (toward the engine) by the width of the top of the frame. So that puts it directly in front of the mc, with around 1/8” - 1/4” between them. I guess it’s just one of the differences between 1/2 and 1 tons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 Gearboxes are the same for 1/2, 3/4 and 1-tons, the difference is B-1 part number is different from B-2 p/n, which is different from the B-3/ B-4 p/n Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 (edited) I installed mine on a 1950 1 ton, but possibly a difference between US and Canadian version? Edited September 10, 2018 by NiftyFifty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 The MC johnsartain referenced with the yellow cap is correct. I pulled the proportioning valve off the junkyard donor and it mounts under the MC but everything is kinda tight. I have disc on front as the donor did also. Will post photo soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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