Spring startup

[Rosco]

I need some guidance here  -  when starting my car (‘50 Plymouth Deluxe, 41000 original miles, stock flathead six cylinder), for the first time in the spring, should I be putting some oil down the spark plug holes to lubricate the cylinders or just turn it over with the coil disconnected to build up oil pressure before starting?  It’s been stored properly (oil changed, grease job, stabil in the gas, etc.) in a dry garage for about 5 months.  I know both methods work, but I want to do it correctly to avoid any internal damage to the engine.  You guys are the experts here, so thanks in advance for any advice.

[rallyace]

I just crank it with the plugs out until oil pressure builds and then put them back in and go. It was only stored for a few months so things should be OK internally. If you plan on using starting fluid (ether) for that first start up of the season, I would squirt a bit of oil (less than a half a teaspoon) into each cylinder when you do the initial oil pressure build up as the ether will immediately remove any residual oil off the cylinder bores. If you do use a bit of oil, point the tailpipe towards where you expect mosquitos to breed and you can do double duty, start the car and fog for mosquitos at the same time

[knuckleharley]

1 hour ago, rallyace said:

I just crank it with the plugs out until oil pressure builds and then put them back in and go. It was only stored for a few months so things should be OK internally. If you plan on using starting fluid (ether) for that first start up of the season, I would squirt a bit of oil (less than a half a teaspoon) into each cylinder when you do the initial oil pressure build up as the ether will immediately remove any residual oil off the cylinder bores. If you do use a bit of oil, point the tailpipe towards where you expect mosquitos to breed and you can do double duty, start the car and fog for mosquitos at the same time

Bingo! Only takes a few seconds to build up oil pressure with the plugs out,and the engine is under no stress while it's happening.

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

I like to use WD-40 instead of Ether starting fluid.  With 'dry' ether you will lock up engines.  With WD-40 it lubes some and never locks it up.  Big motors such as cars etc but even better in small engines, , lawnmowers blowers and chain saws.  They will run on that before they fire up on gas.

 

[Dan Hiebert]

Our D24 never starts on the first few turns anyway.  I always just ensure everything is up to snuff.  I never crank it more than 10 seconds, give it a rest, then crank again so the starter/solenoid doesn't heat up too much.  After two tries the oil is up to par.  After three I'll put some gas down the carb, which usually gets it started, but sometimes it will take four, with the last attempts taking some gas in the carb.  I don't do starter fluid or ether at all.  Car is not tight my any means, first starts of the spring are always accompanied by copious amounts of smoke.  

[John Norlien]

I was told years ago to pull the plugs, put in a small squirt of oil and roll it over a few times with the plugs out first, then put them back in and put a SMALL amount of gas down the carb and start it up. This is how I have always done it.  Easy to get at the plugs on a flathead anyway and doesn't hurt to have a good look at them.

[Young Ed]

I just start as if I put it away yesterday. As Dan said it never fires before it cranks up pressure anyways

[Grdpa's 50 Dodge]

Gas over the carb is a dangerous BAD deal.  One little backfire as they always do and the vapors  lead to the can and it explodes faster than a short fuse firecracker.  THAT has injured more friends than I can count.  And they were seriously hurt and burned

 

I have no idea why WD 40 burns so well yet doesn't flash back because is pressurized.

[allbizz49]

For those of you that have to store their cars for winter, why don't you just fire it up once every week or two? That way there is no worry or issues come spring.

Edited May 5, 2018 by allbizz49

[Young Ed]

1 hour ago, allbizz49 said:

For those of you that have to store their cars for winter, why don't you just fire it up once every week or two? That way there is no worry or issues come spring.

Mine are stored off site. One 120 miles each way and one in a locked facility that won't permit you to enter. So I don't see either of them until spring. 

[Rosco]

So I got the car started the other day.  Pulled the plugs, squirted a little oil in each cylinder, turned it over a few times to build oil pressure, put the plugs back in and it fired right up on about the third try.  Didn’t even have to prime the carb and there was no oil smoke from the exhaust.  Runs like a top.  Thanks again to everyone for all your help and suggestions.  

Edited May 6, 2018 by Rosco

[LAKOTA169]

I parked my '37 Plymouth Coupe in my drive on October 18, 2017. Threw a cover over it. Last week I put a battery charger on it for a couple of hours. Then I cranked it over with the ignition off for about 30 seconds. Poured less than a spoonful of gas down the carb and waited a few seconds. Turned the ignition on, hit the starter pedal, and it sputter for a few seconds. Hit the starter again and it started right up. Took it for a 25 mile drive Saturday and it ran great. I live in Michigan.

[Rosco]

My car starts, runs and drives, no problem, but I discovered a leak at the water pump.  It looks like it’s coming from the front seal where the fan pulley attaches to the pump.  A new water pump should fix the problem.