Replacing Boots on U-Joints

[Labrauer]

Sometime we figure out ways to help us do difficult things some easier.  https://www.classiccarrestorationclub.com/video/how-to-rebuild-a-ball-and-trunnion-drive-shaft-008786/

[Don Coatney]

Leather is easier.

 

[dpollo]

Been there, done that, not my favourite job.  Did you notice he omitted the little spacer washers which go on before the ball and needles ?  perhaps the new balls are a little different.

What I have found is that it is often the bell which has worn out because all the other parts are very hard.  The  lace up boot which Don has shown,  while not ideal, will serve the purpose well if it does not come flying off.

Edited April 24, 2018 by dpollo
clarify

[John Norlien]

I ended up needing to replace the center pin.  To get it correctly centered, I measured the center ball and the pin length, divided the difference by two and machined up a couple of blocks out of 1" square steel with a slip fit for the pin and the thickness as I calculated.  Pressed it all together and when the end of the pin was flush with the blocks, it is centered.

[Plymouthy Adams]

ok...not a recommendation, I do NOT endorse this fix.......but here in the south there are two products that reign king, I have seen these u-joints greased up and then wrapped with duct tape..  of course the second product we all know that holds the south together is JB Weld.. each product has it's use and application...it is often overextended here in the southern land of shortcuts and get-me-bys..

[T120]

2 hours ago, dpollo said:

...... Did you notice he omitted the little spacer washers which go on before the ball and needles ?  perhaps the new balls are a little different.....

 

Possibly there was a break in shooting the video. I noticed as we'll he didn't install the washers before sliding on the ball and needles...then a little further along in the video they magically appear in place.Apart from that I thought it was a very good video

 

Edited April 24, 2018 by T120

[RobertKB]

3 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

Leather is easier.

 

 

I'm with Don on this. I find the new rubber ones or old NOS tend to split after little use. I replace any that have split with the leather ones and have never had a problem. Last one I did was the rear boot on my 1953 Plymouth. The new rubber one had split so I found a source for the leather ones and have several on hand for my various Mopars.

[JOHN EDGE]

I up graded my wagon with a spicer ujoints drive shaft and the stub unit that mounts to the rear axle flange.  The harmonics at 65 and above seem much better than the original drive shaft.  Just an option

[Labrauer]

I would like to have done the leather one too but haven't been able to find them. I  once had a pattern of one but don't know what I did with it

[Don Coatney]

1 hour ago, Labrauer said:

I would like to have done the leather one too but haven't been able to find them. I  once had a pattern of one but don't know what I did with it

 

Did you do a forum search? Did you try Burnbuam or Roberts?

[RobertKB]

I got mine out of a supplier in Coquitlam, BC, Canada. He is a one man operation called Rovon Auto Parts. His name is Ron Whiting. 604 936 9312. He has thousands of parts and is very knowledgeable.

[rallyace]

Hint when replacing the cover plate. To keep things lined up, temporarily bolt it in place. Works like a charm and prevents the need to invent new four letter words.