bluefoxamazone Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 hello folks! we are currently re-installing the watertube after the inside channel(s) have been de-rusted and cleaned. just to be sure, is this the correct way of re-installing the new pipe, which slides in back and forth very easily. As you notice, only a part of the flow will pass through the tube, or do we have to reshape the tube somewhat? Thank for a well appreciated advice. grtz, Franky 1 Quote
Andydodge Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 I have seen some that were slightly flared at the end which made the end more closely follow the shape of the hole on the block but they still were level with the edge of the block with nothing protruding........I havn't seen anything in the various shop manuals I have that say anything about the shape of the the tube end so i think the flaring would be o/k to do or leave it as yours is pictured...............andyd Quote
homer41 Posted March 7, 2018 Report Posted March 7, 2018 Andy, my plymouth block looks like above and my dodge head looks like above. Dave 1 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Posted March 7, 2018 6 hours ago, Andydodge said: I have seen some that were slightly flared at the end which made the end more closely follow the shape of the hole on the block but they still were level with the edge of the block with nothing protruding........I havn't seen anything in the various shop manuals I have that say anything about the shape of the the tube end so i think the flaring would be o/k to do or leave it as yours is pictured...............andyd Hi Andy, yes that is why I am asking this question. I came on this picture in the tech tips: The flow allong the tube is here somewhat restricted versus my picture and more concentrated trough the pipe... What is wisdom....? Thanks for replying! Quote
Andydodge Posted March 7, 2018 Report Posted March 7, 2018 I don't think that any slight flaring would harm the general idea as the tubes purpose is to funnell cool water inside the engine and the recesses along the top of the tube allow the cool water to reduce the temperature under the exhaust area and seats so anything that aids in getting more water in there should be a bonus for my money...............you ask what is wisdom?............lol.............not playing with cars?........lol...........I'd think that a gentle flaring such as that pictured would be fine..............Homer that pic by Bluefox showsan internal bypass, so thats what you have........... .andyd 1 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Posted March 7, 2018 So far I have found different pictures, some are flaired others stay straight... I cannot imagine that this is not important for the cooling behaviour of the engine. The water will always choose the way with the least resistance. If there is too much space between the pipe and the body, I think most of the water will not go trough the narrow pipe but will flow allong the side of the pipe. Or am I thinking wrongly. I would like to hear the experiences from the experienced guys... ;-)Why have they constructed it that way and why is nothing mentioned in the manual(s). I like to believe that it is not important, but I am not easy to convince... haha... Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 7, 2018 Report Posted March 7, 2018 I would think that you wouldn't need all of the coolant flow to go down the distribution tube, which helps to direct coolant flow around the exhaust valves for additional cooling. With the space around the end of the tube coolant is also allowed to flow into the engine block as well. My theory is that some coolant flows to the valves and the rest goes through the rest of the engine. I think of the water distribution tube as a flow divider of sorts. 2 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) thanks for replying Merle, altough, if I see the drawing in the manual... It looks like the original tube fits the opening much more precise than the aftermarket tubes. There does not seem much clearance to creat side flow... I think we will go for the flared pipe and hope the flow is sufficient to cool the whole block. grtz Edited March 7, 2018 by bluefoxamazone 1 Quote
casper50 Posted March 8, 2018 Report Posted March 8, 2018 This is what mine looked like when I opened it up. Stock engine don't know if the tube had been replaced or not. 2 Quote
classiccarjack Posted March 8, 2018 Report Posted March 8, 2018 47 minutes ago, casper50 said: This is what mine looked like when I opened it up. Stock engine don't know if the tube had been replaced or not. My engines look just like that too... 1 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 thanks jack and casper great info!!!! I suppose there were no real cooling issues with this setup? Quote
casper50 Posted March 8, 2018 Report Posted March 8, 2018 I've only done breakin on mine in the garage about 2 hours worth. Can't get it to hit 165 yet. 1 Quote
Dick41 Posted March 8, 2018 Report Posted March 8, 2018 Hi Blue: Another two cents worth here. Mine is a 41 Plymouth flathead. I recommend a radiator inspection and recore if necessary. While I had my radiator done, I brought in the distribution tube. Expert radiator guy in Stockton, CA. said it was fine but put it in the boil out tank to clean it. Lookjed like new when he was done. There is no flare on my tube. Looks just like the rest of the pictures here. I went with the radiator recore job after all and am very glad that I did. Now my car can sit at idle on a hot day and not overheat. Driving, the guage is always in the middle range. What a relief! 2 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) 49 minutes ago, Dick41 said: Hi Blue: Another two cents worth here. Mine is a 41 Plymouth flathead. I recommend a radiator inspection and recore if necessary. While I had my radiator done, I brought in the distribution tube. Expert radiator guy in Stockton, CA. said it was fine but put it in the boil out tank to clean it. Lookjed like new when he was done. There is no flare on my tube. Looks just like the rest of the pictures here. I went with the radiator recore job after all and am very glad that I did. Now my car can sit at idle on a hot day and not overheat. Driving, the guage is always in the middle range. What a relief! hello Dick!! I have a new cooling core in the radiator, a new waterpump, de-rusted the whole intestines from the engine by acid treatment, new distributor pipe, etc,...so there is not much left I can do I think. It will hopefully go like a spear (without overheating)....grtz!!! Edited March 8, 2018 by bluefoxamazone Quote
46Ply Posted March 8, 2018 Report Posted March 8, 2018 Looks like the consensus is that it should be flared on the end to fit the opening, here's another "poor" picture of mine. 1 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 9, 2018 Author Report Posted March 9, 2018 ok fellas, this is how it looks. Let's see what happens.... enjoy your day!! Franky 2 Quote
classiccarjack Posted March 11, 2018 Report Posted March 11, 2018 Let us know, I hope that everything will be fine. 1 Quote
Bingster Posted March 12, 2018 Report Posted March 12, 2018 Bluefox, how did you de-rust the inside of your engine with the acid, and what kind of acid. I am assuming that the engine was still in the car? 1 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 12, 2018 Report Posted March 12, 2018 Just another pic of a installed old tube.... 1 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 12, 2018 Author Report Posted March 12, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, Bingster said: Bluefox, how did you de-rust the inside of your engine with the acid, and what kind of acid. I am assuming that the engine was still in the car? hello! we took off the (fairly new )waterpump and radiator. All openings (incl. thermostat housing) were blocked bij a piece of sheet metal and silicone. Two freeze plugs were removed and the engine was flushed untill nothing came out anymore. My brother also made a special nozzle to be able to blow high pressure water in the engine in the corners via the freeze plug opening. Then, one of the freeze plugs was mounted. The other freeze plug opening was temporary closed with a wooden plug. On the bottom of the engine we put in a open/close valve. On the top, the heater valve was replaced bij another open/close valve. Both valves were connected to a garden hose. To circulate the acid we used a small pump driven by a drilling machine and a bucket. The acid was a commercially availble de-ruster on a phosphoric acid base (see picture below). I have done preliminary tests on a very rusty knife that had been laying in the Belgian weather for two years. It was soaked in the acid (20%)overnight and came out nicely. All the rust was gone and the metal was nice and black (phosphatised). We used a 20% solution on the engine and let is circulate for 15hrs. After the rinsing, we have been flushing with water for 2hrs. This evening I will post a picture from the inside of the engine. It looks so clean that you think that it came straight out of the factory.... Edited March 12, 2018 by bluefoxamazone 1 Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted March 12, 2018 Author Report Posted March 12, 2018 this is an endoscopic view from the inside of the cooling tube channel.... 5 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 12, 2018 Report Posted March 12, 2018 That's pretty cool! ........."The Fantastic Voyage into the Flathead" Thanks for posting! 1 1 Quote
Andydodge Posted March 13, 2018 Report Posted March 13, 2018 Bluefox...that looks nice and clean tho' I am curious whether the derusting and phosphorus acid has left any sort of film or coating that maybe loosened over time and float around the water jackets.........have you given any thought to installing one of those water filter things that are installed usually in the upper radiator hose?...........andyd Quote
classiccarjack Posted March 13, 2018 Report Posted March 13, 2018 I can achieve the same results... After busting my butt with coat hangers, steel rods, and using a power washer. THEN I will wire wheel down the block.... I like your method much better! Why didn't I think of that? Neato! Quote
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