classiccarjack Posted January 26, 2018 Report Posted January 26, 2018 Ahhh.... The infamous water tube! Quote
classiccarjack Posted January 26, 2018 Report Posted January 26, 2018 Those buggars can literally take DAYS to get out! Quote
Andydodge Posted January 26, 2018 Report Posted January 26, 2018 Bluefox............you sure thats all of it?............looks a little by me.........andyd Quote
classiccarjack Posted January 26, 2018 Report Posted January 26, 2018 He may have to keep digging... Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Posted January 27, 2018 10 hours ago, Andydodge said: Bluefox............you sure thats all of it?............looks a little by me.........andyd jep, not much more came out.... it was scraped, we did a gynocologist like investigation and it looks clean and free... The new tube goes fluently in exept for the last 5 cm but we haven't tapped on it yet. First I am doing some test on how to safely remove rust (and I make good progress...) and how to flush the engine without the waterpump and radiator(s). We will most certainly circulate from the outlet on the bottom of the engine (have to find a tap valve that will fit) to the outlet to the heater valve. Let the stuff circulate for a few hours, close the radiator valve and then circulate over the thermostat housing. Also will try to change flow directions and removing some accesible freeze plugs to check. If that won't give a clean block I don't know. At the end... I am driving in Belgium and not in Arizona... cheers Plymouth mates and keep tasting the Belgian Beers!!! curahee!!!!! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 27, 2018 Report Posted January 27, 2018 you are flushing so remove the thermostat and put the cover back on, install the pump and run....you will be supplying fresh water all the time...no biggy on a bit of a leak at the gasket surfaces during the flush process...it is a pain to remove the lower core plugs but will result in better ability to clean the crud from the block. DO prevent the crud from returning to the radiator by allowing the upper hose to spill upon the ground when flushing. Match the flow of your water hose in to that of the upper hose output while maintaining a almost full radiator at all time of flow. Racing the engine will interfere with this exchange rate...keep the speed constant...when flushing the heater coil, be careful to flow and not pressurize....at the age of this unit...you wish not to blow any joint that has been compromised by age... Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Posted January 27, 2018 (edited) at this moment the radiator is not mounted and the water pump is new. so I will install an open circulation so I can have no presure build up en fill from the bottom... here under the derusting test with an old steel knife and some bolts that I had been laying in the garden for ages.... Edited January 28, 2018 by bluefoxamazone Quote
pflaming Posted January 27, 2018 Report Posted January 27, 2018 When I rebuilt my truck engine, I used a high powered steam cleaner, removed the freeze plugs and spent two hrs on that block. Then I tried to pull the tube, I tried all kinds of ways to no avail, so a perfect novice, I made a long slender spear and worked that all the way in, then I made a puller with a sharp strong end and found all the bottom openings, cleaned them and tried to pull it out. No success. Then I looked down that tube with a very bright flashlight and saw all was nice and clean. So frustrated and tired I made certain the tubes' open end was like a funnel so the water had to flow through it, put the water pump back on and now have driven it for five years and it never runs hot, temp usually at 160. The tube on my '53 suburban came out nice and easy and was in quite good shape, I put in a new tube anyway. Quote
Branded Posted January 27, 2018 Report Posted January 27, 2018 My tube was also in good shape but, since I had a new tube that I had already purchased I went ahead and installed the new one. If I hadn’t had the new tube I would have used the old tube over, it had a few light pits but is still in very good shape. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted January 27, 2018 Report Posted January 27, 2018 The machinist that rebuilt my engine 11 years ago found a BRASS tube for my 23 inch block . The tube was so oxidized that he had to sand it a little to see the brass . He got it from his friend that buys and sells the old mopar parts . Quote
RobertKB Posted January 28, 2018 Report Posted January 28, 2018 Canadian cars all seem to have had brass distribution tubes. I personally have never seen a steel one in a Canadian engine. I have pulled lots of brass ones and they come out easily and are always reuseable. All are for the 25" block as that is all that went into Canadian cars and trucks from 1938 onward. Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Posted January 28, 2018 I think this was still the original tube from 1954. You see what is left after all these years (propably plain water and not modern cooling fluid with rust inhibiter and oxygen barier) I will fill 'r up with modern fluid.... Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted January 29, 2018 Report Posted January 29, 2018 It seems that someone could sell at lot of 23 inch brass tubes if they were to repop them . Quote
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