Greg F Posted October 17, 2017 Report Posted October 17, 2017 I just had a 55 Dodge 230 put into my 40 Plymouth. The guys installing it say that there is flown the radiator and the water pump is working well, but still runs hot. Is it possible that the stock radiator is not enough for the bigger engine? Should I just buy a new aluminum radiator and see if that helps? They tell me its timed right. I'm getting the feeling this so called "hot rod shop" does not know what they are doing, and its pissing me off. Thats what I get for finally paying someone for something I should have done for myself. Thanks for any help getting her back on the road. Quote
mmcdowel Posted October 17, 2017 Report Posted October 17, 2017 How hot is it running? Is there a thermostat in place? Quote
Greg F Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Posted October 17, 2017 (edited) When I drove it home it over heated(212), so took it back. Now they say up around 190, but then coolant comes out the top when they shut it down. There is a thermostat in it. I'm to the point I'm going to go down get it, bring it home, and work on it myself. ERRRR! Edited October 17, 2017 by Greg F Quote
JOHN EDGE Posted October 17, 2017 Report Posted October 17, 2017 Put a champion radiator in my wagon. Bolted right in ...runs cool. Looks god Quote
Greg F Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Posted October 17, 2017 (edited) Beautiful motor!! Think that is the route i'm going to try as soon as I get it home. Edited October 17, 2017 by Greg F Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 17, 2017 Report Posted October 17, 2017 Do not keep trying to top it off all the way to the top..there is to be expansion room in the top tank...second, do you have a digital infrared thermometer....this will allow you to ascertain the actual heat within the block throughout the cooing system...DO RUN a thermostat..it not only allows the block to warm up but when open the hole is of the proper size to allow the proper flow of water...not to big to prevent water from saturation but big enough to prevent oversaturation..is the timing a bit advanced by chance...makes them run very well but also allow them to run hotter temp wise..and lastly, did you take the time to purge the block before install to properly clean the sludge from the bottom of the block and inspect the distribution tube.....and ensure that the lower hose has a spring in it to prevent suction collapse if you have deleted the metal u-tube... 4 Quote
Greg F Posted October 17, 2017 Author Report Posted October 17, 2017 Thanks P.A. as usual for all the good advice, will check all those suggestions out. Quote
JerseyHarold Posted October 18, 2017 Report Posted October 18, 2017 Also check to see that the manifold heat riser isn't stuck closed. 1 Quote
Ranger Posted October 20, 2017 Report Posted October 20, 2017 Good advice from P.A. You need that room at top of radiator for expansion. Also the distibution tube in the new engine is suspect if it was not checked prior to installation. My radiator appeared to be circulating fine but took it to a shop. It was mostly plugged. They recored it using original tanks and now works great. Quote
keithb7 Posted October 20, 2017 Report Posted October 20, 2017 Is there known history of the 230 engine? Water distribution tube condition? Scale rust build up in the block? Coolant needs to flow freely around all cylinders, head, thermostat, hoses and rad. Scale and rust build up in the block will impede flow. Quote
bluefoxamazone Posted October 20, 2017 Report Posted October 20, 2017 it would be an excellent help to point some spots to measure at and the expected readings. We can do the measurements but what is the correct temperature on that spot? Quote
chopt50wgn Posted October 20, 2017 Report Posted October 20, 2017 You can also add an expansion tank(overflow) tank to the radiator. That will allow you to run more coolant in the radiator and when it expands into the tank, as the motor cools a vacuum will pull the coolant back into the radiator which will keep it topped off. Quote
jiffyjet1011 Posted October 20, 2017 Report Posted October 20, 2017 Water tube is rotted in the motor Quote
P15-D24 Posted October 20, 2017 Report Posted October 20, 2017 Stock radiator is fine. Do the basics as already mentioned: Check hoses, pull the water distribution tube (replace if needed), flush the block (pull the welsh plugs and flush till clear) pull the radiator and flush, run 160 degree stat, non pressure radiator cap, verify the water pump is functional. 1 Quote
keithb7 Posted October 20, 2017 Report Posted October 20, 2017 (edited) https://youtu.be/ZeyG_46U6CA Not sure if this helps or hinders progress. Here were my readings. My car is running great. Not overheating. I have driven up slow hills in 100 weather. No overheat. I flushed rad too. That seemed to help. Here is after I flushed the rad. Considerable scale did come out. At the time I was unsure if this was enough flow. Upon reassembly the car did seem to run cooler. https://youtu.be/8J6Zy9FVLRo Edited October 20, 2017 by keithb7 Quote
Greg F Posted October 20, 2017 Author Report Posted October 20, 2017 A lot of good suggestions guys...Thanks. Have to get the car back form these guys as they are sitting on it, now that I already paid in full. Again, thanks for all the suggestions, this website is amazing! Quote
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