New 1950 dodge Truck to me

[Jerry Roberts]

On 10/30/2017 at 2:00 PM, Merle Coggins said:

I've seen some that will argue against using a grease gun for this maintenance, which is called for every 20,000 miles. Instead they claim to work the 1/2 oz. of grease into the hole with your finger. This should eliminate the possibility of blowing out a seal.

Here's a cut-a-way image of the rear axle bearing.

That is a good idea Merle . Also a guy could put a needle tip on his grease gun and not use a zert fitting  . I read about a guy that had his rear end all apart and at that time he put a pressure release valve on top of his housing above the bearing . But the needle tip is a lot less fuss . Long ago before I understood how things worked , i installed a grease fitting here and greased . Hours later I removed the fitting and there was still pressure .  Woosh !

[JaysonK]

On 10/31/2017 at 8:44 PM, 5027 steve said:

Yea can u believe that someone actually would even move a vehicle....the rims were 3/4 of a inch off the brake drum tightened to the 1/4 bolts.......Just nuts

That I should just stupid-crazy.....it would not have taken that much to rivet them like they are supposed to be...

[5027 steve]

Is there any way of checking for a rear bent axle without pulling the axle out??? We have a wobble on the drivers rear tire..we already took wheel off and had it checked for a bent rim and the rim is straight as a arrow....Thanks

[Jerry Roberts]

If you think that the wobble might be in the tire itself , switch tires and rims left to right and look for a change . Or put on the spare and look again . If you pull the tire and wheel and spin the axle , it might be hard to see any deflection . 

Edited November 12, 2017 by Jerry Roberts

[5027 steve]

1 hour ago, Jerry Roberts said:

If you think that the wobble might be in the tire itself , switch tires and rims left to right and look for a change . Or put on the spare and look again . If you pull the tire and wheel and spin the axle , it might be hard to see any deflection . 

We already did that with the tires and still have the wobble ....thanks

[Merle Coggins]

It would seem that if the axle shaft is bent enough to see a noticeable wobble of the wheel, then you should also be able to see it in the brake drum with the wheel removed. Spin the brake drum and see if it also has the same wobble. Or you could set up a pointer at the center of the axle shaft and spin the brake drum and see if the pointer stays at the center of the axle shaft. If it's bent it will be quite noticeable.

[johnsartain]

Like Merle and Jerry were saying, Check the drum for wobble, tighten the lug bolts to the drum. A 1/16 inch at the outer edge of the drum could correlate to an inch or more at the outer edge of the tire.

Edited November 13, 2017 by johnsartain

[Rebar1968]

hi just went through and read all 10 pages learned lots as I'm a newbie also,, I was just curious if theres a place to get the left hand lug bolts for my `1949 Fargo, I have 3 in total, also I know you can get all the brake parts less the drums, has any one fitted a different newer style 10x2 drum on these things and well not bolted it on like in that picture 

 

[DJ194950]

Pull the wobbling wheel rim off and the brake drum off.

Clean the axle tapered shaft, file flat any sharp edges on the key and key way of the drum , clean the tapered hole of the brake drum.

Use some type of oil/no seize on the parts. Reassemble and try again.

A had a bad wobble on the driver side  wheel after brake repair that was not there before and this cleanup/filing completely solved that issue!

DJ

[5027 steve]

56 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

Pull the wobbling wheel rim off and the brake drum off.

Clean the axle tapered shaft, file flat any sharp edges on the key and key way of the drum , clean the tapered hole of the brake drum.

Use some type of oil/no seize on the parts. Reassemble and try again.

A had a bad wobble on the driver side  wheel after brake repair that was not there before and this cleanup/filing completely solved that issue!

DJ

Thanks ....steve

[johnsartain]

On 10/29/2017 at 12:57 PM, 5027 steve said:

Are there bushings available for the wiper arm to motor stud????

 

I can tell you what I did on mine as I could not find a bushing. For the clop I used the e-clip I could find to fit. For the bushing I used a couple of brass Tarp Grommets I got from Ace hardware. They also sell a kit and tool to set the grommet/ It kit is from General and is kit # 71262. The kit has 3/8" grommets.

[5027 steve]

7 hours ago, johnsartain said:

I can tell you what I did on mine as I could not find a bushing. For the clop I used the e-clip I could find to fit. For the bushing I used a couple of brass Tarp Grommets I got from Ace hardware. They also sell a kit and tool to set the grommet/ It kit is from General and is kit # 71262. The kit has 3/8" grommets.

Outstanding idea!!!! I was thinking rubber grommets ....THANK YOU

[johnsartain]

I was hoping to find a nylon, or Teflon grommet but no luck.... yet. I am still looking.

[5027 steve]

18 hours ago, johnsartain said:

I can tell you what I did on mine as I could not find a bushing. For the clop I used the e-clip I could find to fit. For the bushing I used a couple of brass Tarp Grommets I got from Ace hardware. They also sell a kit and tool to set the grommet/ It kit is from General and is kit # 71262. The kit has 3/8" grommets.

 

[5027 steve]

I found a 7/16 o.d. rubber grommet to fit like a glove...I'm not worried about it wearing out becausecthectruck will be limited use...

[Jeff Balazs]

These pivot points need to be well lubricated in order for the wipers to work well. I used Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease on all the pivot points and it has worked quite well. Stays in place too. I also packed my steering gearbox with the same stuff. Doesn't leak either.

Hth. Jeff

[5027 steve]

1 minute ago, Jeff Balazs said:

These pivot points need to be well lubricated in order for the wipers to work well. I used Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease on all the pivot points and it has worked quite well. Stays in place too. I also packed my steering gearbox with the same stuff. Doesn't leak either.

Hth. Jeff

I used EWG ....by slip2000.....it is extreme weapons grease I use it on all my A.R.'S it is a outstanding high temp grease puts up to a lot of heat and abuse....THANKS

[Jeff Balazs]

15 hours ago, 5027 steve said:

I used EWG ....by slip2000.....it is extreme weapons grease I use it on all my A.R.'S it is a outstanding high temp grease puts up to a lot of heat and abuse....THANKS

You'll shoot your windshield out!........

[5027 steve]

Ok been awhile...that's life.....is it possible to find a 4 speed trany for this truck???? How do I find a application ,what I mean is I would think the 4 speed was used in cars as well as trucks.is there such a thing as a cross reference guide in any way shape or form ???? Thanks ....

Edited December 17, 2017 by 5027 steve

[Blue]

7 hours ago, 5027 steve said:

Ok been awhile...that's life.....is it possible to find a 4 speed trany for this truck???? How do I find a application ,what I mean is I would think the 4 speed was used in cars as well as trucks.is there such a thing as a cross reference guide in any way shape or form ???? Thanks ....

Sure. It's like everything else. Lot's of patience and looking. I don't know about a car 4 speed transmission, but first gear in a truck 4 speed is a granny gear. I have a 4 speed in my 1 ton, but first gear is only good for slow pulling. I mostly use 2-4, and may trade out for an automatic. Do you have a reason you want a 4 speed?

[5027 steve]

1 minute ago, BlueberryDodge said:

Sure. It's like everything else. Lot's of patience and looking. I don't know about a car 4 speed transmission, but first gear in a truck 4 speed is a granny gear. I have a 4 speed in my 1 ton, but first gear is only good for slow pulling. I mostly use 2-4, and may trade out for an automatic. Do you have a reason you want a 4 speed?

Ok I may be wrong with how u just described a 4 speed so 1st gear is pretty much useless is what your saying......I just thought a 4 speed would help on the 3 and 4th gear ..  .....Thanks for the info...

[Blue]

No, first gear is just for pulling. and will not help with overall speed. If you are trying to achieve speeds above 45, a different rear end and/or transmission will be needed. I am guessing you have a three speed and running 40-45 MPH?

[5027 steve]

11 minutes ago, BlueberryDodge said:

No, first gear is just for pulling. and will not help with overall speed. If you are trying to achieve speeds above 45, a different rear end and/or transmission will be needed. I am guessing you have a three speed and running 40-45 MPH?

Yes u are correct

[5027 steve]

Ok men I'm back at it ..... I'm having problems with water pump/thermostat housing bolts ......feels like I'm going to snap them off should I

#1- Try and apply heat to head/block???

#2-If that doesn't work .. Grind heads off the bolts so I still have the shaft portion on the bolts to try and get out.....2 of the 3 water pump bolts came out like butter but the one with the gen bracket won't budge....THANKS Steve

[5027 steve]

Ok got one out and one not....suggestions please