BobB Posted September 9, 2017 Report Posted September 9, 2017 I just found a correct Oil Bath air filter to replace the empty canister with no element that I had. I've discovered a pin hole in the bottom of the portion to be filled with oil. Any recommendations for non-oil-soluble methods to plug the hole would be much appreciated. My first though was a dab of JBWeld or a dot of solder. Don't know if the weld would dissolve or if the solder would stay put. Thanks for your thoughts. - Bob 1 Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted September 9, 2017 Report Posted September 9, 2017 I pluged some holes under the oil bath air cleaner with piece of papers,not good idea to weld there. Quote
JPP Posted September 9, 2017 Report Posted September 9, 2017 It is too thin to weld but you can tin it and then sand it smooth, look like new and no leaks. Search web for tinning metal. Good luck. Quote
Fernando Mendes Posted September 9, 2017 Report Posted September 9, 2017 I did not notice leak of oil ,but the interesting is not entering air. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 9, 2017 Report Posted September 9, 2017 the welding of this metal with a torch and a 000 or even a 00 tip is very doable....many folks have a hard time as they do not have the correct tip for the gauge of metal they are welding..most torches come with a 1 size tip and that is way to large for most all sheet metal...brazing it also a very effectives manner in which to repair...and of course, as stated above, you can actually just solder it. Quote
greg g Posted September 9, 2017 Report Posted September 9, 2017 Well you could do it like us old sons of frugal fathers did. A sheet metal screw, a rubber washer and a dab of putty! Had lots of cars with more than one screw in the gas tank or oil pan... Quote
BobB Posted September 10, 2017 Author Report Posted September 10, 2017 Welding isn't in my skill set anyway. Sounds like a bit of solder might do the trick. I was also wondering if a speck of JBWeld might work as well as I'm honestly not that great with a soldering iron either. Thanks for the help. Bob Quote
NiftyFifty Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 Solder won't stick, uless your going to silver solder it and that's as hard as brazing for the most part...clean it up really well, JB weld the spot and then put a little black rtv over that once the jb is fully cured...shouldn't cause you any more issues, but sand the spot with some rough 80-40 grit sand paper so the jb can grab Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 Just now, 4mula-dlx said: Solder won't stick, uless your going to silver solder it and that's as hard as brazing for the most part...clean it up really well, JB weld the spot and then put a little black rtv over that once the jb is fully cured...shouldn't cause you any more issues, but sand the spot with some rough 80-40 grit sand paper so the jb can grab Perhaps, just spit balling here but you may be the -perfect candidate for a roll of that new Flex Seal tape....BUT....I would not drive far any length of time or distance without frequent checks.... Quote
johnsartain Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 If you get the metal really clean and free of oil prior to applying the JB Weld or epoxy, either should do the trick for quite some time. You might even try some Red-Kote fuel tank sealant particularly if the metal in the bottom of the oil bath part is pitted. Quote
JPP Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 Not to spitball further, but while your in the JB Weld Aisle, pick up a fire extingisher, when the oil hits the hot engine, flames can appear. Just want to identify all risks. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 sell the car, grab some water colors, charcoals and maybe an easel........ (In your best Foghorn Leghorn voice...I say that's a joke son!) Quote
NiftyFifty Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 I guess some people on here don't know the strength of jb weld...if you farm it's a life saver, and have seen cracked blocks fixed with it...he said pin hole, it's not a 1/2" gash I'm guessing, on top of that....since when does a minor oil leak burn down trucks?? If that was the case, 95% of flathead trucks would be ashes Quote
johnsartain Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 The best solution is if you have access to TIG, or know a welder who has TIG, weld it up, or make a patch to weld over it. do it on the inside and it will never be noticed. That's the most permanent fix. I bought a front sump oil pan, from the p15-d24 store that had a little smaller than a dime size hole in it, TIG'd it up and ground the weld down from the outside. It isn't noticeable and there are no worries about future leaks either. Quote
desoto1939 Posted September 10, 2017 Report Posted September 10, 2017 Just convert the oilbath air cleaner to use a modern paper filter and then if you are going to a show that is being judge then put the wire mess filter back on the top of the carb. If the truck is a driver than go with the best possible change and get rid of the oil base filter or maybe even see if you can find a K&D new style filter to fit the truck. If it is a fully restored truck ground up totally 100 point truck then you will be only putting the truck on a trailer and not driving the truck. So just make a simple change to the filter and have lots of fun with the truck. Most people at the car show would not even care about the non stock air filter only you and a few other people might even notice it and since it is your truck and your money I would not care what they thought. If they have comments then tell them to open their wallets and buy the truck from you. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.