Don't be cheap

[fargo52]

My Whole objective was to clean up the engine fix some leaks make a few little modifications and ultimately stop the truck from leaking oil on my garage floor  well I am successful so far I have not noticed any oil leaks yet , but I did something I decided to reuse a questionable head bolt it's the one that holds the military optional oil filler in place it's a bolt with a nut built-in to the top of it ,  well if it wasn't for my left hand drill bits I would have to take the head off but luckily I was able to thread the broken portion out of the block and pull the rest of it out with a magnet .lesson learned buy new bolt , I guess I will weld a nut to the top of the new Head bolt , 

[Plymouthy Adams]

close call...disaster avoided...

[Young Ed]

Those same headbolts were used as grounds and throttle linkage mounts in various flatheads. You might be able to find a better one or a new one.

[Geekay]

"the military optional oil filler in place " this caught my attention as have just taken delivery of Suburban van conversion to an Army Ambulance (Australia).

I had a look at your photo of the engine but could only see half of this oil filler thing.

Can you post another photo showing the whole  "military optional oil filler"

[NiftyFifty]

I was in your spot, although I decided to just use all grade 8 bolts for head bolts the first time...head gasket didn't last more then a few hundred miles...they had no stretch and just became loose with a few heat cycles....only use real head bolts, and remember to retorque after a few cycles 

[Don Coatney]

Very important that the replacement head bolts you use have an undercut shank as pictured below. If you use a standard grade 8 bolt the shank will be full size and it will rust fast to the head guaranteeing breakage when they are removed. You also might consider using studs with long coupling nuts to replace the broken bolt. With the long nuts you can screw in a bolt from the top to mount your accessories. If the photos do not open click on the links.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=168ngma

 

[fargo52]

This is the PCV system off my military  engine. The only thing I didn't reuse was the fuel pump that had the diaphragm vent hooked up to the vacuum line to the wipers , I guess the  engine has less vacuum to operate and requires this type of fuel pump , I will see if I will have to also , 

[fargo52]

Picture of the crankcase  oil bath filter 

[Geekay]

Thanks for photo.

What is it's purpose?

When you pour new oil in does it filter the oil before it flows to sump?

Or does it somehow filter the fumes released form sump through an oil bath?

[pflaming]

Thanks Don, i wanted black allen head bolts, now i realize that though they are the correct grade, then are not tapered as they should be, so will change those bolts. The engine is not in the car so that helps. What is the life of head bolts, I wonder if I can use the ones that came out. I think the answer to that is "don't be cheap" yet frugal has value as well. 

Edited February 7, 2017 by pflaming

[fargo52]

ok the  mini  oil bath filters the air that is being pulled into the crankcase by the PCV system , with out it it would allow road dust/debris in , if you had the sealed 1/4 turn lid it would not allow air into its  engine and it would ultimately pull its air from a gasket or seal area and that's bad , you could use the vented type that has the wire mesh in it but this style will not let the  engine vent steam out when shut off and therefore the truck doesn't smell when shut off .

[Geekay]

23 hours ago, fargo52 said:

you could use the vented type that has the wire mesh in it but this style will not let the  engine vent steam out when shut off and therefore the truck doesn't smell when shut off .

Lost me here...so from the near ignorant, can you explain...."the wire mesh type (that I have) will not let engine vent steam out"......okay with that.....but "therefore the truck doesn't smell when shut of"...if the "steam" is not being let out, how then do i get a "smell" when the engine is "shut off".

 

[MBF]

I think I'd use a stud and a nut with never seize.   I'm not sure, but I think the wire mesh has the opening in the bottom of the cap so in order for the cap to be able to vent anything the crankcase gases would have to travel up the fill tube, and then make a 180 turn and head back down the outside of the tube to exit through the cap.   If the PCV system is functioning properly I wouldn't think that would be a concern.   Both my trucks, and my 36 Plymouth emit an Ode De Garage fragrance whether they're running or not which is a true bouquet compared to the plastic smell of newer vehicles!

Edited February 9, 2017 by MBFowler
clarify thread

[fargo52]

MBFowler is correct on the wire mesh style , the  oil bath style only allows gas to enter the  engine , when the  motor is shut off no gas (steam) can escape except up the PCV vacuum small line  and it doesn't seam to smell , my real reason for adding this too this  engine was to aid in removing the moisture from the engine because I make short trips sometimes . 

[Jeff Balazs]

I like what you have done. Anything you an do to reduce contaminants getting into the crankcase is a good thing.

Jeff

[Geekay]

Thanks. Worthwhile considering. I am now wondering if any Dodges that were produced in Australia had these. 

Desotodav is my "go to" man for these questions.