fargo52 Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 My Whole objective was to clean up the engine fix some leaks make a few little modifications and ultimately stop the truck from leaking oil on my garage floor well I am successful so far I have not noticed any oil leaks yet , but I did something I decided to reuse a questionable head bolt it's the one that holds the military optional oil filler in place it's a bolt with a nut built-in to the top of it , well if it wasn't for my left hand drill bits I would have to take the head off but luckily I was able to thread the broken portion out of the block and pull the rest of it out with a magnet .lesson learned buy new bolt , I guess I will weld a nut to the top of the new Head bolt , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 close call...disaster avoided... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Those same headbolts were used as grounds and throttle linkage mounts in various flatheads. You might be able to find a better one or a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 "the military optional oil filler in place " this caught my attention as have just taken delivery of Suburban van conversion to an Army Ambulance (Australia). I had a look at your photo of the engine but could only see half of this oil filler thing. Can you post another photo showing the whole "military optional oil filler" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 I was in your spot, although I decided to just use all grade 8 bolts for head bolts the first time...head gasket didn't last more then a few hundred miles...they had no stretch and just became loose with a few heat cycles....only use real head bolts, and remember to retorque after a few cycles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 6, 2017 Report Share Posted February 6, 2017 Very important that the replacement head bolts you use have an undercut shank as pictured below. If you use a standard grade 8 bolt the shank will be full size and it will rust fast to the head guaranteeing breakage when they are removed. You also might consider using studs with long coupling nuts to replace the broken bolt. With the long nuts you can screw in a bolt from the top to mount your accessories. If the photos do not open click on the links. https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=168ngma 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargo52 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 This is the PCV system off my military engine. The only thing I didn't reuse was the fuel pump that had the diaphragm vent hooked up to the vacuum line to the wipers , I guess the engine has less vacuum to operate and requires this type of fuel pump , I will see if I will have to also , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargo52 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Picture of the crankcase oil bath filter 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks for photo. What is it's purpose? When you pour new oil in does it filter the oil before it flows to sump? Or does it somehow filter the fumes released form sump through an oil bath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) Thanks Don, i wanted black allen head bolts, now i realize that though they are the correct grade, then are not tapered as they should be, so will change those bolts. The engine is not in the car so that helps. What is the life of head bolts, I wonder if I can use the ones that came out. I think the answer to that is "don't be cheap" yet frugal has value as well. Edited February 7, 2017 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargo52 Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 ok the mini oil bath filters the air that is being pulled into the crankcase by the PCV system , with out it it would allow road dust/debris in , if you had the sealed 1/4 turn lid it would not allow air into its engine and it would ultimately pull its air from a gasket or seal area and that's bad , you could use the vented type that has the wire mesh in it but this style will not let the engine vent steam out when shut off and therefore the truck doesn't smell when shut off . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 23 hours ago, fargo52 said: you could use the vented type that has the wire mesh in it but this style will not let the engine vent steam out when shut off and therefore the truck doesn't smell when shut off . Lost me here...so from the near ignorant, can you explain...."the wire mesh type (that I have) will not let engine vent steam out"......okay with that.....but "therefore the truck doesn't smell when shut of"...if the "steam" is not being let out, how then do i get a "smell" when the engine is "shut off". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 (edited) I think I'd use a stud and a nut with never seize. I'm not sure, but I think the wire mesh has the opening in the bottom of the cap so in order for the cap to be able to vent anything the crankcase gases would have to travel up the fill tube, and then make a 180 turn and head back down the outside of the tube to exit through the cap. If the PCV system is functioning properly I wouldn't think that would be a concern. Both my trucks, and my 36 Plymouth emit an Ode De Garage fragrance whether they're running or not which is a true bouquet compared to the plastic smell of newer vehicles! Edited February 9, 2017 by MBFowler clarify thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargo52 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 MBFowler is correct on the wire mesh style , the oil bath style only allows gas to enter the engine , when the motor is shut off no gas (steam) can escape except up the PCV vacuum small line and it doesn't seam to smell , my real reason for adding this too this engine was to aid in removing the moisture from the engine because I make short trips sometimes . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted February 9, 2017 Report Share Posted February 9, 2017 I like what you have done. Anything you an do to reduce contaminants getting into the crankcase is a good thing. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geekay Posted February 10, 2017 Report Share Posted February 10, 2017 Thanks. Worthwhile considering. I am now wondering if any Dodges that were produced in Australia had these. Desotodav is my "go to" man for these questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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