wont start

[Jerry42]

Hello new to here but like the old  dodges, I recently got a 1950 dodge b series 1/1/2 ton grain truck it was running when I bought it at a auction I trailered it home it has sit for about 3 yrs. So I put all new fuel lines on it new pump new tank, tried to start it today and she was trying but did not start turns over ok but nothing . Also are these trucks suppose to be Positive ground?  thanks for any info,checked the spark kinda weak it has champion j-11 plugs in it are these the right ones? thanks again Jerry (confused)

[jpartington]

Hi welcome,

yes these trucks are supposed to be positive ground. Have you checked to make sure gas from the tank is making it to the carb?

[NiftyFifty]

Pop the cap and rotor off and clean up your points, their likely a bit corroded and not sparking properly...use a small file if you have...emery cloth will work, but not recommend as it leaves dust and debris in there that can burn them out faster.  Once you have good spark, try again...if no go, dump some raw fuel down the carb, if it fires, then your float is likely stuck closed

 

good luck 

[Jerry42]

thanks for the answers yes I am getting fuel to the carb I will clean the points

[Brent B3B]

Do you have good compression all cylinders? 

[Jerry42]

havent checked the compression on the cylinders was running cleaned the points now no spark at the plug

[Reg Evans]

Might be time for a new condenser.

[Plymouthy Adams]

when you clean the points, ensure that the fire is a crisp high voltage and that you are still not suffering a high resistance even though they look clean...lets us know your findings

[Jerry42]

ok thanks I guess I should put all new points plugs,wires,condenser,cap,rotor,have spark from the coil so Im guessing its good weird how after I cleaned the points now no spark to the plugs thanks (still confused)

[Plymouthy Adams]

it is possible that when cleaning you could have shorted the wire or points themselves to ground IE condenser lead...remove the lead from the coil to the distributor...test this with an ohm meter....when points closed wire will read to body (gnd) when points open..the meter will read infinity....if you are shorted the coil stays in saturation and field will not collapse creating the secondary high voltage to the plug

[Jerry42]

ok thanks

[bach4660]

not sure which distributor you have but I had a problem when the bakelite insulator broke off and the coil wire that passes through the housing was shorting out  causing no spark its the black wire in the photo with the yellow end. I used a piece of plastic (actually a ball point pen) to create a tube for the wire to run through and immediately had spark

Edited September 2, 2016 by bach4660
still getting used to new format

[Jerry42]

thanks for the help will check the wire and test with a ohm meter if it helps my distributor is a autolite IAY4001-1.              Also I dont think it is the timing or firing order out of wack because when I bought it it was running and All that I have done is brought it home and it sat for a couple of yrs till I could put a new gas tank on it. So after the new tank tried to start and nothing so... is it possible that the p.owner maybe put the wrong points in it just to get it to run long enough (maybe 5 min.) to show it runs at the Auction ?  (still confused but am not giving up I ordered everything from DCM Classics and hope this will fix it. Maybe just put a New Dist. in it? does anyone know where to get one? thanks again

[NiftyFifty]

Start with points and condensor , their pretty cheap option, but also check the button on your dist cap...I made that mistake a couple years ago, no spark so I changed the points and cond but ended up being the centre button in the cap.  Sometimes after you clean the points they can fail, depending on what was used to clean them...

[Plymouthy Adams]

as a fairly new tinkerer on the old Mopar you need to also learn to buy your tune up parts using the tag on the distributor.  The differences in the cap and rotor will cause you to go crazy trying to start and tune if parts are mismatched.  You can have beautiful fire from the coil but unable to distribute it to the plugs through the cap and rotor.

[Jerry42]

ya I looked at the old cap and its pretty dirty inside also that center button (for the coil) is loose in there floppin around is that normal? or should that spring underneath it suppose to hold it down?

[Jeff Balazs]

Sounds like you may have found the main problem. Be sure and have the distributor model # handy when you go to buy replacements.

Jeff

[Jerry42]

ok many thanks

[Jerry42]

will let you know what I find have to order the cap

[Jerry Roberts]

9 hours ago, Jerry42 said:

ya I looked at the old cap and its pretty dirty inside also that center button (for the coil) is loose in there floppin around is that normal? or should that spring underneath it suppose to hold it down?

The connection on the inside top center of your distributor cap should move up and down when you touch it with your finger . It has a spring behind it with slight pressure . " flopping around " ... no . 

[Jerry42]

ok thanks messed with it a little set  the points to 0.18 set the plugs to 0.20 and I finally got a little spark at the plugs she almost started poured a little gas down the carb and she wanted to start maybe I need to rebuild the carb? thanks

[Jeff Balazs]

Plug gap should be .035".

[Jerry42]

ok thanks

[MBF]

A problem I have found is when these flatties sit for a long period of time w/o being turned over is that they hang exhaust valves-sometimes really hang them.  If you're still having starting problems I'd check the compression on all cylinders and see if you have about the same amount in all cylinders.   Sometimes a hung valve will let go with a shot of MMO down the throat of the carb while the engine is running, but I've also had them so stuck that I had to pull the head and work them with oil to get them moving again. 

[NiftyFifty]

Marvel Mysetry Lube is you best friend when it comes to stuck valves and piston rings...you can try soaking through the spark plug holes before you get it running...after I like to drip some down the throat of the carb while running it...but do that job outside...very smokey and stinky