48plymL6 Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 Hello all, happy to have joined this forum. So far by reading other topics you guys have help me out alot! I gotta say this car is kicking my a**... and I mean that. I'm going to school to be a Diesel tec and and used to working where I can't see my hands past my elbows from electronics. So anyways I figured it was time to start paying some attention to my old 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe. Has a leakey exhaust manifold. So I'm in the process of putting Langdon's split manifolds on. Got 11 of the nuts off (some studs came as well making a mess of coolant haha) didn't see any more nuts so I start prying and hammering and the friggin thing won't budge. So I start looking around for brackets holding it in place, nothing. Went and grabbed the new manifolds and of course should have done that first because I missed the 2 long bolts. Well one was lose, pull it out with some needle nose and it's broke off right where the treads start. (Take it that's where my leak is since I have yet to find a crack) and the other one closest to the front... and oh boy one look at the old rusted bolt and i knew she was the one that was guna give me trouble. So I grabbed my torch, heated her up nice and cherry. Gave a minute or so to cool. Put the brakah bar to her and pop goes the weasel. Soo I'm dead in the water. Can't fit a drill in there to get an extract tool in there. Now if I was back down in Ohio where all my "specialty" tools are and a lift I think I'd be fine. But I have a basic socket set and rachet, wrenches and a Jack witch I figured would be plenty. Thought this whole project would be a simple walk in the park, hour maybe 2 hour job. But no, I have failed at it so far. So any advice on getting that female dog out would be very much appreciated! Thanks (I'll post a pic of it when I figure out how) Quote
casper50 Posted August 10, 2016 Report Posted August 10, 2016 if the manifolds are off now and you can see part of the bolt sticking out of the block try welding a nut on to it. Have to be very careful of course. Quote
Dave72dt Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 Weld a washer to it first, then if you must, weld a nut to the washer. You'll get better weld penetration with the washer. You can add some candle wax to it while it's still warm if you like. Most of the time I can use a pair of pliers to work the broken stub out after welding just the washer. Quote
Don Coatney Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 If I read this correctly the manifold is still connected to the engine block. Makes welding difficult without pulling the engine. Quote
48plymL6 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Posted August 11, 2016 Yes both manifolds are still on the block. But I'm hoping if I can some how get the intake off alone that might just leave me some room get a welder in there. People tell me it's impossible to do so but I disagree. But leads us to another problem the 4 bolts on bottom on the exhaust manifold 2 that I think go up to the intake are already broke off. Put my brakah bar on and I can just feel the other 2 will brake off. Will heat them come out? I hate heating on gasser engins. And pulling the motor is not an option. I'll hack that manifold in to 100 pieces before that happens. Quote
soth122003 Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 If what I reading is right, you have all the nuts and one bolt out of the way, but the other long bolt broke at the head and you can't slide the manifold back far enough to clear the (now) stud to get it off the engine. If this is the case, try to work the manifold back far enough to get a hack saw in there and cut the bolt. Remove the manifold and then weld, drill, tap or what ever to remove the rest of the bolt. Joe Quote
48plymL6 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Posted August 11, 2016 Soth going to attempt that now! Thanks Quote
48plymL6 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Posted August 11, 2016 Update: intake and exhaust are out and apart. Got the stud that the head broke off from out. Now I do have another question, the longer bolts that broke I have in my hand and on each end they have different treads. Looks like an old style head stud to me where you screw it into the block then tightin the manifold down with a nut. Can I just put a bolt in its place instead of "OEM" design? Thanks Quote
TodFitch Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 Changed over the years, but the OEM design on my '33 uses brass nuts on the manifold studs. Means that I never have to go through the pain you did as the brass nuts will not weld themselves onto the stud, etc. If putting the original manifold on, remember that the torque setting for the fasteners is quite low: The manifold has to be able to expand and contract with temperature or it will crack and if you tighten the fasteners too much it can't move. Quote
48plymL6 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Posted August 11, 2016 So I take it the specs could change if I put on an aftermarket exhaust manifold. It's the langdons stovebolt split manifolds. Quote
Don Coatney Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 Bolts have threads on one end only and they can be purchased with either course (USS) threads or fine (SAE) threads. Studs have USS threads on the end that goes into the block and SAE threads on the other end. Pictured below are the manifold fasteners that I used. Eleven studs and two bolts. Make sure you use thread sealant on the end that goes into the block as many penetrate the water jacket and will leak coolant with no sealant. Quote
greg g Posted August 11, 2016 Report Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) tighten till the manifold gasket is in contact with the block and the manifold,and begins to compress, then tighten another half to full turn, start and check for leaks. You might want to check the new castings to make sure they are flush are will meet properly with the block. Or you could contact stovebolt and ask their recommendation. Edited August 11, 2016 by greg g Quote
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