***The ol' rear engine mount problem***

[autoexpressionist.com]

Needing to replace the rear engine mounts in my '47 Plymouth and have read the previous posts about the issues with not being able to remove/reinstall because of not being able to get the trans jacked up enough. I am just now getting into this project and was considering cutting the sleeved washer that drops in from the top to remove. Then replacing it with a sleeve that installs from the bottom instead. Am I missing something that would cause a problem doing it this way?

[busycoupe]

In desperation I did just what you suggested when I replaced my rear motor mounts 4 years ago. I also put the bolt in from the bottom and therefore the nut is on the top. I was concerned that if the nut loosened the bolt would fall out. However, after 4 years and over 5000 miles there has been no sign of a problem.

One other thing, the new mounts will lift the transmission higher and you may have to adjust your shift linkage.

Dave

[autoexpressionist.com]

Awesome. Exactly what I was hoping for. (aside from the shift linkage... but I'll keep an eye on that.) Thanks so much!!

[Young Ed]

In desperation I did just what you suggested when I replaced my rear motor mounts 4 years ago. I also put the bolt in from the bottom and therefore the nut is on the top. I was concerned that if the nut loosened the bolt would fall out. However, after 4 years and over 5000 miles there has been no sign of a problem.

One other thing, the new mounts will lift the transmission higher and you may have to adjust your shift linkage.

Dave

Not sure why but the bolts on my truck rear mounts go up from the bottom. They are drilled for a cotter pin and use a castle nut. That could be an option too. 

[desoto1939]

Or also use a star washer that has the serrations to cut into the flat waster on both top and bottom but the castle nut with a cotter pin is a great idea also.

 

Rich hartung

[Jerry Roberts]

Or use lock nuts . 

[jrhoads]

I did exactly the same thing

[Plymouthy Adams]

on mounting the new rubber do not over torque these...they are not meant to be cranked down on..basically a float fit..for those that are cutting the piece for reinstall must pay attention to spacer and bolt length when refitting with non stock bolts etc..added washers may be required...this is covered under engine mounts in the book..not found in the transmission section

[Don Coatney]

When you sung up the rear engine mount you are not squishing the rubber you are torquing to the medal insert.

 

 

 

[jrhoads]

I believe that the new mounts corrected (for me) the common problem of the clutch pedal not fully returning to full released position.