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Posted

1.  I was just flipping through the factory svc manual and noticed the "block the brake pedal to prevent its downward movement" which I did not do when tearing into these P4 rear brakes.  I'm replacing all shoes, cylinders soft lines and some hard lines as it appears decades have passed since last service.  What kind of trouble am I in since this pedal likely experienced "downward movement" in the two weeks this has been underway?

 

 

2.  The rear brakes had mismatched cylinders when I disassembled them.  I have new replacements in hand from Bernbaum, but need a source for an additional banjo fitting and bolt as it seems that was a stock piece.  The mismatched cylinder ran the 1/4" line into an adapter and screwed directly into the cylinder with no banjo or bolt.

 

Making progress, but it's slow with regular work schedule.  Anxious to get this done and start fogging Phoenix for mosquitoes again!!!

 

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Posted

You might have to make a new brake line to the new wheel cylinder. You will not need the brass connection piece that you are showing in your pictures.  The brake line need to be a double flare and the  flared brass nut end should screw right into the hole in the back of the wheel cylinder.

 

If the brake pedal did travel back to the floor that mean that you might have also lost some brake fluid. and you will not possibly have air in the lines. But if you are replacing the lines and rubber parts and rebuilding the braking system you will have to re-bleed the entire system after it is all reassembled.

 

Are you using Dot3/4 or going Dot 5 silicone?

 

Rich Hartung

Posted (edited)

Okay.... Sounds like I'm okay on the pedal. I'd intended to rebleed entire system anyway with all four cylinders comming off.

That cylinder doesnt look like it will take anything other than the banjo fitting type connector.... That IS. A new line. Mocked it up yesterday. Not Sure how I could adapt a flare fitting to it. Its not NPT thread and has no flare seat inside. Just a 5/16" x 24 tpi bolt clamping the banjo with copper washers on either side. That's what was originally on right rear, and he cylinders sent by Bernbaum fit it exactly... Was that not a stock settup? I'd assumed it was given what was sent to me.

I'll probably use plain old brake fluid. No silicone. Not sure of the need for it.

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Edited by thebeebe5
Posted

>>1.  I was just flipping through the factory svc manual and noticed the "block the brake pedal to prevent its downward movement" which I did not do when tearing into these P4 rear brakes.  I'm replacing all shoes, cylinders soft lines and some hard lines as it appears decades have passed since last service.  What kind of trouble am I in since this pedal likely experienced "downward movement" in the two weeks this has been underway?<<

 

Don't worry about it. That was just to avoid losing more brake fluid than necessary and having to bleed the MC again. You are going to have to do that anyhow when you replace the lines/

 

BTW,when you replace the lines,use the new copper/nickel brake lines that can be bought at any auto parts store today. You can buy enough to replace all the hard lines in your car for around 30 bucks or less,and you can bend it by hand without it kinking,and being copper plated inside and out,you will never have to worry about rust on the inside or the outside of your hard lines again.

 

While you are at it,replace the rubber  hoses,too. Do it all at one time and be done with it.

 

Don't forget to check the shoes in your emergency brake,either.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

>>1. I was just flipping through the factory svc manual and noticed the "block the brake pedal to prevent its downward movement" which I did not do when tearing into these P4 rear brakes. I'm replacing all shoes, cylinders soft lines and some hard lines as it appears decades have passed since last service. What kind of trouble am I in since this pedal likely experienced "downward movement" in the two weeks this has been underway?<<

Don't worry about it. That was just to avoid losing more brake fluid than necessary and having to bleed the MC again. You are going to have to do that anyhow when you replace the lines/

BTW,when you replace the lines,use the new copper/nickel brake lines that can be bought at any auto parts store today. You can buy enough to replace all the hard lines in your car for around 30 bucks or less,and you can bend it by hand without it kinking,and being copper plated inside and out,you will never have to worry about rust on the inside or the outside of your hard lines again.

While you are at it,replace the rubber hoses,too. Do it all at one time and be done with it.

Don't forget to check the shoes in your emergency brake,either.

thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into that copper/nickel line. Front hoses look pretty recent. Rear I replaced when I got the car last June. E-brake will get done when engine/trans come out after brakes are done. This car really hasn't been touched mantenance-wise in forever.... It's fallen to me to catch that all up over time, but I wanted brakes before engine overhaul.
Posted

brake system is too important to leave the old front hoses on because they look good. yes, they can rot on the inside and look great on the outside. replace everything, no regrets.    capt den

  • Like 1
Posted

I think you have the wrong rear wheel cylinders in your car. The 39 Plymouth uses the same rear cyclinders as my 39 Desoto. According to my EIS brake catalog they should be

RR ew6128  and Lr 6137  and you do not have the brass coupler the brake line screw directly inot he back of the wheel cylinder.

 

I have the eis catalog on CD and all of the information that you would need to know about the brakes for your car.

 

Contact me:

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.comi

Posted

I think he has an older car. His profile says 39 but the picture is of an older car and p4 isn't a 39.

  • Like 1
Posted

I think he has an older car. His profile says 39 but the picture is of an older car and p4 isn't a 39.

I do indeed have a '37....  Not sure how I messed that up in my profile.  Fixed now!

 

Bob Drown steered me to Vintage Power Wagons and I was able to get a part that fits perfectly. 

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