Suburban, 53 Plymouth

[pflaming]

Update: this morning I put tires on the green suburban to move it to my shop and part it out. Two items of note are the over drive and the pristine rear bumper. Those will be for sale shortly then will remove everything that is bolted on, except the rear axle.

I also checked out my acetylene tanks and torches, first time since the February 2016 fire. All works just fine. That will be a great help parting out the car.

Edited March 1, 2016 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

here we go again,,,,FIRE IN THE HOLE !

[DJ194950]

Update: this morning I put tires on the green suburban to move it to my shop and part it out. Two items of note are the over drive and the pristine rear bumper. Those will be for sale shortly then will remove everything that is bolted on, except the rear axle.

I also checked out my acetylene tanks and torches, first time since the February 2016 fire. All works just fine. That will be a great help parting out the car.

image.jpgimage.jpg

 

 

Car looks good at least in the rear, lots of sellable parts.

 

Think I would be afraid of the fire survivor?? torch setup.

 

I,m with Tim on this one-Fire in the hole(garage!)

[pflaming]

1. Response to "fire in the hole" comment. While my torches do work, I note that the adjustment valves do not open and close smoothly, so will take them to a proper shop and install all new seals, etc.

2. Was under the car today and concerned about which wires were important to keep in tact. After Ed's comment on the switch attached to the carb, I found this drawing which very clearly shows what goes where. I find it to be very helpful.

The sign comes at no charge. The saber tooth plymouth as well!

[pflaming]

1. Response to "fire in the hole" comment. While my torches do work, I note that the adjustment valves do not open and close smoothly, so will take them to a proper shop and install all new seals, etc.

2. Was under the car today and concerned about which wires were important to keep in tact. After Ed's comment on the switch attached to the carb, I found this drawing which very clearly shows what goes where. I find it to be very helpful.

The sign comes at no charge. The saber tooth plymouth as well!

Darn, I just noticed the drawing is for a Mercury, however I think it is very close to a Mopar since the transmission is a BW r10. So I did a second search and found the correct schematic.

Edited March 6, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Houston, I've got a problem! This parts car was in a front drivers side accident. I soaked the rear motor mount bolts over the week end put a socket wrench with a 12" cheater pipe and the nuts turned 1/2 turn the no go. Upon closer examination, it appears they are bent yet that shouldn't affect the END of the bolt. Sure hate to go there with a torch.

Oh the joys of disassembly. Maybe I will just pull the OD and other parts and "store" the engine where it is. I swear,this is my last hurrah!

Edited March 7, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Well I got me an overdrive! And this car now has a new inspection opening. Very easy to do and to then make a plate even easier.

[pflaming]

Pulled the carb this morning. Sharp cold chisels did the job. But the insides gives one pause.

Question: what tool is required to remove the manifold bolt next to the firewall, and how would one torque that on installation. It appears to me the engine needs to be moved forward to get to that bolt!

Edited March 8, 2016 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

pflaming, on 08 Mar 2016 - 2:51 PM, said:

Pulled the carb this morning. Sharp cold chisels did the job. But the insides gives one pause.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Question: what tool is required to remove the manifold bolt next to the firewall, and how would one torque that on installation. It appears to me the engine needs to be moved forward to get to that bolt!

use the same technique that you used to remove the transmission..just cut an access hole and place a patch over it later with screws or pop rivets....its not like you really fixing up the car anyway...

[pflaming]

It's interesting how an honest question elicits a disrespectful reply that is not remotely applicable! Sad!!!!

[Plymouthy Adams]

what is there to say about a man that will cut a perfectly solid floor pan just to get to two bolts that can be easily had with just a tad of effort and of course a couple nice tools...as this butcher job has been done once...I figure it would not be any harm or foul for you to do it twice...

 

this is your earlier cut on this body.... 

 

http://p15-d24.com/uploads/monthly_03_2016/post-34-0-19567500-1457394268.jpg

Edited March 9, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams

[pflaming]

When I tried to remove the rear engine mounts, I concluded the engine was pushed back in the accident, so I pulled the OD instead since that was what I wanted. The tools I used to reach that upper bolt didn't work so since this is a parts car anyway, I cut the inspection hole.

It was/is impossible to reach that back manifold bolt on the suburban. So I took a break then pondering it all, I returned to compare the same bolt on my B3B and the suburban. It became very obvious, fast that the engine WAS/IS pushed back against the firewall. So invasive surgery will take place in the morning. Be nice to have a set of Jaws for Life".

The green firewall is the suburban.

Edited March 9, 2016 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

see how easy that was to conclude.....it may would be different as would have been my reply if you were actually trying to salvage the body...

[pflaming]

Did some cleanup on the overdrive yesterday, it's cleaning up quite nicELy? Will check it over then put it up for sale.

[JerseyHarold]

Just a thought....could the rear engine mount(s) be collapsed or missing so that the engine leans into the firewall?  If so, jacking-up the engine should give you clearance to remove the bolt.

[pflaming]

Jersey. Great idea. These pics may add credence to your observation.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

I pulled this manifold to have it with the overdrive. It was a bit of a challenge, but a torch certainly helps. I have placed it along side a non OD manifold. They are different. I think the other one is a pre '54 if that makes any sense.

I realize there is no connection between the manifold and the OD yet I wanted to keep them together. Side bar, the cleanliness of the valves, no sludge, indicates that the bottom of the block may be ok. Will drain the oil next, to see if there is any water in it. Interesting to do an old engine autopsy.

The car was parked due to an accident, proof it was running just prior.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

One more big item into parts 4 sale inventory. I have two of these. Both ready for cosmetics and installation. These tanks are scarce, note the upper section. The suburban has the spare tire in a well. Thus a thinner tank was required and thus the extra tank on top.

May not see a pair of these very often. Both good tanks.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

I heated the mounting bolts twice, put a cheater pipe on my ratchet and still could not remove the bolts. So will get my cutting torch repaired next week. This is on my parts suburban but I'm not certain it is unique to it. It's not perfect, maybe a 7, but worthy of a full restore or complimentary to most others. Will post to sell next week. Still more to remove. Lots of work but will get my investment back and much more.

A search of bumpers 53 & 54 Plymouths shows the bumper only on suburbans, evidently to protect the license plate. Of note, the 53 Chrysler has the same bumper.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Getting very close to return the suburban to storage. DO NOT, try to remove the gauge cluster and the switches from a 53/54 Plymouth dash while it is in the car.  SO MUCH EASIER to remove the entire dash and then do what needs to be done.  I did what I have just suggested you not do, terrible task, but wanted to salvage those gauges and speedo for sale.

 

Well, live and . . . . . maybe.

[pflaming]

I am starting on the flat head 218 engine, several questions: (1) anyway to determine if the water pump is good, (2) does it take special tools to rebuild it, (3) I have two valves that will turn but don't want to come out, (a) can a valve stem get bent, ( I have one with a short stem, what can cause that.  Will now remove the freeze plugs then steam clean that engine, inside the water chambers and the outside of the engine.  Then I will will return to those valves. Maybe in a couple of hours I'll have some replies to the above challenges.

 

I can hardly read 14 font, so time for eye surgery.

 

 

[casper50]

I find that glasses fix it pretty well.

[pflaming]

Steam cleaned the engine inside and out. I drained the oil, then removed the five freeze plugs, and with a high powered steam cleaner, I spent an hour putting steam into any hole that would take water. The bottom freeze ports were caked shut and crud came out that block for a long time. I persisted until clear water was all that exited that block. Back at the shop, I put some kerosene into each cylinder, moved them up and down, cleaned then put motor oil in which is how they are now.

 

I have two concerns: I still have two stuck valves.  With a vice grip, I can turn them so I turn and treat with Liquid Wrench. Maybe they will loosen in the morning. The second concern is that I cannot crank a full revolution. I know I have a short stemmed valve, could that off broken end be jamming?  I guess the pan comes off tomorrow.  

 

Any suggestions will be welcomed. Oh, did I do any harm by steam cleaning that block with the pistons in?

[Jerry Roberts]

Paul , Are you saying that the end of one of your valve stems is broken off ? 

[Dave72dt]

If those stuck valves are not fully open, that can cause the engine to not turn over, or you may have another valve that is stuck closed, doing the dame thing..