59bisquik Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 I just got a new battery and tossed it in the truck. It still wont start but turns over better. I checked the carb and it has fuel in it and also tried using starting fluid and it doesnt even try to fire. I pulled the distributor cap off and looked for tight wires and moving points. Then pulled the spark plug and set it on the head. It gets a very weak orange spark. I have 5.8V at the coil primary side. I also tried swapping out the coil with no change. I am ready to upgrade to the Pertronix unit and Flame Thrower coil. Am I missing anything else? I feel silly with such a simple system. Since starting fluid doesnt even make a difference, I am leaning towards the ignition as the culprit. Quote
JBNeal Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 that spark should be a bright white with a blue streak to it...that voltage should be more than 6V on a fully charged battery Quote
59bisquik Posted October 1, 2015 Author Report Posted October 1, 2015 (edited) I have 6.42 volts at the battery and 5.8 at the coil. I tried using an old battery to power the coil while cranking so that I didnt get a voltage drop from the starter, no difference. Edited October 1, 2015 by 59bisquik Quote
DJ194950 Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 while I,m all for he Pertronix update when appriopriate , Start by filing the points and setting the point gap.( 0.016- 019), clean the cap and rotor contact points and try again. My thoughts, good luck,enjoy the project! Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 odds are unless you get a good spark with stock points and such..you wmay not get the Pertronix to do any better....something is rotten in Denmark..check your wiring closer and test for point having high resistance Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 You need 3 things to run. Compression, gasoline, and spark delivered at the correct time. What are you missing? Quote
MBF Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 I'd run a hotwire from the negative post of the battery (the hot side in a postive grounded vehicle) to the coil directly to eliminate all of the wiring as the problem and see what happens. Make sure all connections are clean and tight. Quote
NiftyFifty Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 What have and haven't you done to the ignition system? I would check all your plug wires, make sure they are healthy, clean and Gap the points, make sure the button on the distributor is good....I had a very similar issue with mine this year...button burnt just enough that I was getting weak or no spark, then play with it and it would spark good for a moment, then back to nothing. Best idea if it hasn't been running for a long time....replace all wear components...plugs, wires, cap, rotor and points and condenser Quote
Solution Jeff Balazs Posted October 1, 2015 Solution Report Posted October 1, 2015 If it were me I would start by putting in fresh points and condenser, cap and rotor and perhaps plugs and wires. Do you know what plugs are in it and are they gapped correctly? Autolite 306 plugs gapped at .035" generally work well. Hope this helps, Jeff Quote
59bisquik Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Posted October 3, 2015 (edited) Persistence (and a spare box of carbs and distributors) paid off. The accelerator pump was not working and I cleaned all the plugs up since Autozone doesn't even stock them. Swapped distributor caps with my spare and she runs great! Thanks for all of the tips. I thought for sure it was ignition since it wouldn't fire on starting fluid... Looks like I was wrong. Edited October 3, 2015 by 59bisquik 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 3, 2015 Report Posted October 3, 2015 I bought this spark plug sand blaster several years ago for about fifteen bucks. It has paid for itself many times over the years. 3 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 3, 2015 Report Posted October 3, 2015 Glad you found the problem. Jeff Quote
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