4 psi double sealed radiator cap source

[mopar_earl]

Hello,

I'm in need of a 4 psi radiator cap that is doubled sealed for my aftermarket champion radiator. All I can find is single sealed which won't work with the coolant recovery tank I'm going to install. I did find a 7 psi double sealed cap but that's almost twice the pressure.

Without the double seal (under the cap) it won't push and pull coolant to and from the recovery tank.

Anyone happen to know a source or part number? It uses a stant 10208. Would a 7 psi cap be too much pressure? I don't know what limits the system pressure to 4 psi. Maybe it was too new of technology and they were afraid to go higher?

1952 Dodge Coronet

Thanks,

Earl

Edited September 18, 2015 by mopar_earl

[Don Coatney]

Have you contacted Champion for there recommendation?

[mopar_earl]

Have you contacted Champion for there recommendation?

I have not, figured that wouldn't get me anywhere as they supplied a 16 lb cap with the radiator. I just found a stant 10205 that maybe what I need. I will have Napa order it today and see if its doubled sealed.

Earl

[Don Coatney]

When I contacted  Champion questioning a radiator cap they were more than helpful to me.

[Young Ed]

I don't think the concern would be the new radiator but rather the rest of the system. I would be mostly worried about the heater core.

[mopar_earl]

When I contacted Champion questioning a radiator cap they were more than helpful to me.

Cap I ordered will be in today. If its not double sealed than I will contact champion.

Earl

[desoto1939]

I did a search on google and found that AC made a 4lb double seal cap  the model is RC2  and was used on Corvette's 53-54.  So they should be avialble.

 

Do some searching on RC2 rad caps.

 

rich hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[mopar_earl]

I don't think the concern would be the new radiator but rather the rest of the system. I would be mostly worried about the heater core.

Yes, my very concern is the heater core. The aftermarket radiators can probably handle 20 lbs all day long. The engine is rebuilt and all new hoses and water pump and such. The engine components could probably handle more pressure than the 4 lbs. I would like to run a higher pressure cap but I'd rather not blow out the heater core or the heater thermostatic control as they are big money.

I will post how I make out on the stant 10205. Don't know when I will get to pick it up.

Earl

[mopar_earl]

I did a search on google and found that AC made a 4lb double seal cap the model is RC2 and was used on Corvette's 53-54. So they should be avialble.

Do some searching on RC2 rad caps.

rich hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Thanks! I crossed the RC2 to stant and it crossed to the 10208 which for stant isn't a double seal cap. If my 10205 falls through I will try ordering the delco brand RC2.

Earl

Edited September 18, 2015 by mopar_earl

[_shel_ny]

The same core was used 1949-1953.

 

Caps changed from 4-7 somewhere in 52 for the Dodge.

 

You may be just fine with a 7. Of course, that is your decision to make.

 

Good part about a 52 is the heater core is no longer inside the passenger compartment like it was back in 48.

[mopar_earl]

After ordering several caps in I gave up and got a 7 lb cap that is double sealed to use with my recovery tank. All deadends on finding a 4 lb cap with the double seals.

Earl

[DJ194950]

I have had a 7lb. cap on my alum. rad for 5 years In my 50 Plymouth now, not using a overflow tank  just a hose to below the rad. from the fitting by the pressure cap. No leaks! No problems.

 

Did need to have the heater core replaced but according to the rad. repair shop the NOS core I bought on epay had rotted though the honeycomb core from the original acid core solder use to put it together and all the years sitting it had never been washed out or used.

 

Replace new type core and repair was about $130

[mopar_earl]

I have had a 7lb. cap on my alum. rad for 5 years In my 50 Plymouth now, not using a overflow tank just a hose to below the rad. from the fitting by the pressure cap. No leaks! No problems.

Did need to have the heater core replaced but according to the rad. repair shop the NOS core I bought on epay had rotted though the honeycomb core from the original acid core solder use to put it together and all the years sitting it had never been washed out or used.

Replace new type core and repair was about $130

Where did you get your replacement heater core? I plan to take mine to the rad shop to have it checked out and cooked.

Earl

[DJ194950]

Posted Today, 05:15 PM

DJ194950, on 24 Sept 2015 - 5:07 PM, said:

I have had a 7lb. cap on my alum. rad for 5 years In my 50 Plymouth now, not using a overflow tank just a hose to below the rad. from the fitting by the pressure cap. No leaks! No problems.

Did need to have the heater core replaced but according to the rad. repair shop the NOS core I bought on epay had rotted though the honeycomb core from the original acid core solder use to put it together and all the years sitting it had never been washed out or used.

Replace new type core and repair was about $130

Where did you get your replacement heater core? I plan to take mine to the rad shop to have it checked out and cooked.

 

Just like a radiator recore the shop  reused the top and bottom tanks from the Nos Heater core and ordered the correct size replacement which the recieved the next day , (new type tube and fin) core and soldered it back together. Price mentioned was the total repair/replacement cost.

 

Good luck, I'd expect no issues.

[mopar_earl]

Posted Today, 05:15 PM

DJ194950, on 24 Sept 2015 - 5:07 PM, said:

Where did you get your replacement heater core? I plan to take mine to the rad shop to have it checked out and cooked.

Just like a radiator recore the shop reused the top and bottom tanks from the Nos Heater core and ordered the correct size replacement which the recieved the next day , (new type tube and fin) core and soldered it back together. Price mentioned was the total repair/replacement cost.

Good luck, I'd expect no issues.

Cool thanks! I have mine bypassed till I get it pulled out to take to the rad shop. It's probably full of crap that I don't want in my rebuilt engine and the all new cooling system.

Earl

[Don Coatney]

I am curious as to why you need a coolant recovery tank? With a factory radiator if overfilled it will puke out the excess until it finds its own level. With a much more efficient 3 core aluminum radiator I have doubts that it will ever expel any coolant when filled to the maximum as by design it has room for expansion. And if it does expel any coolant a catch can would be easy to install insuring green compliance.

[mopar_earl]

I am curious as to why you need a coolant recovery tank? With a factory radiator if overfilled it will puke out the excess until it finds its own level. With a much more efficient 3 core aluminum radiator I have doubts that it will ever expel any coolant when filled to the maximum as by design it has room for expansion. And if it does expel any coolant a catch can would be easy to install insuring green compliance

To modernized it. I will be able to completely fill it and not have to worry about air pockets. Never have to worry about getting too much coolant in the rad. It will be a closed system just like modern cars. I will be able to check the coolant level at a glance as well. I'm sure there are probably some scientific reasons too but those are my reasons. Lol in a closed system you won't have any pockets or air and it will perform efficiently. Look at it like a hydronic boiler, you never want air/pockets in those as it will lower the heat transfer and make noise. Not to mention cavitate.

Also if I had a minor coolant leak it would refill itself as it cools down. The rad would always be completely filled no matter the temp.

Earl

Edited September 25, 2015 by mopar_earl

[Plymouthy Adams]

IF your radiator is flowing proper I cannot see where cavitation will ever be a concern...there is cavitation the cause and cavitation the effect...I would not see you experiencing the effect which is bursting of microscopic bubbles that peak up to the 6000 Fahrenheit....true cavitation will only occur in degassed liquid..

Edited September 25, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[mopar_earl]

IF your radiator is flowing proper I cannot see where cavitation will ever be a concern...there is cavitation the cause and cavitation the effect...I would not see you experiencing the effect which is bursting of microscopic bubbles that peak up to the 6000 Fahrenheit....true cavitation will only occur in degassed liquid..

Cavitate was about the boiler. Most engines won't cavitate. Some diesels will and need DCA to prevent liner pits.

Earl

Edited September 25, 2015 by mopar_earl