best choice for an ignition upgrade?

[Don Coatney]

Mounted in rubber next to the coil has worked well for me.

 

[jrhoads]

the key to ballast long life is to mount them in  a position they do not experience lots of vibrations (loose mounted) or get water on them when driving or washing the car.  Even worse should you open the hood, the water that may be collected there does not immediately pour on the resistor..this sudden cooling snaps the resistance wire inside the ceramic block..

Which is why I mounted mine under the dash...

[55 Fargo]

I have at least 2 extra on board. Mine is mounted in such a way it is very protected and has air flow over it. Have had the same 1 for nearly 4 years, and it was old and used...

[Tim Keith]

You can get a new Chrysler slant six electronic distributor cheap, one vendor is Old Car Parts Northwest, Ebay #  161240310691.   Do the HEI conversion for a better spark and to eliminate the ballast resistor, and the HEI module is easier/cheaper to source than the Mopar module.

 

http://ocpnw.com/

Edited October 24, 2015 by Tim Keith

[55 Fargo]

On doing some research it states the Chrysler Module, does not like any volatge drops, below 12 volts, and the unit is senstive to a good clean ground.Will be making a dedicated ground for this unit.

Ma Mopar went to electronic voltage regulators apparenlty to remedy and issues with mechanical voltage regulator voltage drops.

I ahve the flowwing back, just in case, points distributor, ready to drop back in an emergency. 2 Mopar module boxes, and 2 spare ballast resistors.

Even with my eventual 318 swap, will have spare to back up a failure. I do not see the need for an HEI conversion at this time...

My flathead engine starts a bit easier, but idles a lot nicer with electronic ignition, not sure if there is more giddy up and go with this, as this engine is hardly neck snapping to begin with, esspecially after a drive in my Hemi Ram truck..........LOL

[55 Fargo]

UPDATE:

 

Thought it only fair I give an update on this topic and my slant 6 dizzy electronic  conversion.

Now engine started and ran great, used it till late last night, but it failed at home in my garage.

Last night after installing shims to my diff, to change pinion angle, thought I should go and try it out, it would not start, coil tested fine, as did the ballast resistor, there was power to the ECU, the pickup coil and dizzy checked out fine on the meter, the wiring harness was checked okay.

So in goes the points dizzy, but I at first put my plug wires on cap wrong, but thought I was indexed out a 180 degrees, got that straightened out, and she fired right up.

When I pulled plugs they looked super clean, and did not have any gas on them, a little suspect, fuel filters and pump bowls full of gas, carb squirting gas. 

Not sure hwy the plugs were dry after a lot of cranking attempting to start engine.

My newer plug wires are solid core wire, probably not the best for electronic ignition.

2 other things occurred after this conversion , my Sun Pro tach went to over 10000 rpm and stopped there, not to work again, in the dark I could see my spark plugs and wires firing faintly through there insulation, very strange phenomena.

So not sure what went wrong, and what failed and what caused it.....

Edited October 28, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far

[cavisco1]

I'm pretty sure you need to run resistor plugs and suppression style wire with any electronic ignition setup regardless of brand. The resistance of the wires and plugs lowers the overall  "Q" of the ignition circuit. The high frequency RFI probably killed the tach and the ignition module.

[55 Fargo]

I'm pretty sure you need to run resistor plugs and suppression style wire with any electronic ignition setup regardless of brand. The resistance of the wires and plugs lowers the overall  "Q" of the ignition circuit. The high frequency RFI probably killed the tach and the ignition module.

Thought so too, but have read should not be an issue with the chrysler ECI, can anyone confirm this either way. 

The solid core wires are a pain with radio noise resistance, that's for sure....

Edited November 13, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far

[DonaldSmith]

Last Fall, I installed the Pertronix ignition in my 47 DeSoto, and barely got the car running . Driveability stunk, or sucked, as the younguns say.  The engine idled very slowly, yet it would not die.  vrump ........vrump........vrump.  Vacuum was only 5 inches.  I figured the timing needed adjustment,  But enough messing with it for the season.

 

Today, I loosened the distributor bolts and found that the tube to the vacuum advance was keeping the distributor set where it was.  I started the engine and pushed down on the tube, advancing the distributor and greatly improving the idle.  So I advanced the distributor (rotating clockwise, right?) by an imprecise amount. Idling is good, driveability is good, and the vacuum is up to 16 inches.  Room for improvement, of course. 

 

So, maybe the secret to the Pertronix installation is to rotate the distributor clockwise, as in advancing the timing.  (But since the igniter is not where the points were, maybe the timing was way off.)   

 

But the timing marks seem to show the timing retarded.(?)  I still have to figure this out.   As seen from the front, the crank and pulley rotate clockwise, and the marks are past the pointer when the timing light fires.

 

But the car is running much better.     

 

I've forgotten more about auto maintenance than most people know.  But the problem is that I have forgotten more about auto maintenence than I need to know. 

[Jeff Balazs]

Donald;

There are a few things about the Pertronix set up I really like. Once it is dialed in you can really enjoy it with no worries about points, etc degrading. Since installing this I never worry about having a good clean spark. Try making very small adjustments to the timing until you have it where it works best. I have found that NGK BR6S plugs gapped at .040" seems to work absolutely perfect in my engine. I get a steady vacuum reading of a tad over 20" at idle when it is fully warmed up. It has not faltered once. This mod gets a big thumbs up from me.

 

Jeff

[DonaldSmith]

Jeff, thanks for the tips.  I'm beginning to like my car again. I gave you a "like this". 

[dale]

Doesnt turning the distributor counter-clock wise advance the timing ?  Maybe not in the old Plymouth.  I know all the new cars it does.  Ive learned the best way to adjust the timing is use lower grade gasoline and advance the timing until the motor pings and then back it off slightly until it doesnt.  Sounds caveman like but it works for me.

[Dave72dt]

Doesnt turning the distributor counter-clock wise advance the timing ?  Maybe not in the old Plymouth.  I know all the new cars it does.  Ive learned the best way to adjust the timing is use lower grade gasoline and advance the timing until the motor pings and then back it off slightly until it doesnt.  Sounds caveman like but it works for me.

I still recommend using a light.  I used to do the "by ear" method and have found the light is more accurate, is repeatable and that my hearing is not as good as it used to be

[DonaldSmith]

So, the mystery is why the marks on the damper are so far off.  Maybe something slipped.  I suppose I could determine Top Dead Center to find out.  I know the rotor will be pointing right, so I don't need the thumb-in-spark-plug-hole test. Just highest travel at the No.6 pipe plug.  Meanwhile, some new NGK spark plugs are waiting for me at O'Reilly's.  Easiest to turn the crank with the plugs out.  I'm beginning to see a plan come together.      

 

The fallback is to set the timing by maximum vacuum at idle.  Some guys recommend it.  If so, I'm getting there.  From 5 to 16, let's go for 20 or so.    

[James_Douglas]

I just do not get why people don't just run the stock distributor.  I run mine for ages without any issues.

 

If a set of points goes bad or a condenser goes bad it take about 15 minutes to swap.  Even on the side of the road.

 

A set of points costs $8. 

 

I have a spare dizzy all set up and in the trunk.  I can swap that alone in about 5 minutes. I lost count of how many times a car at a meet or club drive had an issue with an electronic conversion.

 

My car starts great and runs great.  Like I said, I just don't get it.

 

James.

Edited April 26, 2016 by James_Douglas

[DonaldSmith]

Well, this column is full of all sorts of advice.  It's like religion; some are points men, some are electronic.  I just had a hard time getting the ignition to work right, due, I'm sure, to my limited  depth of experience and propensity to forget the lessons I had learned.  I'm keeping my old coil, points and condenser.  

[Jeff Balazs]

I just do not get why people don't just run the stock distributor.  I run mine for ages without any issues.

 

If a set of points goes bad or a condenser goes bad it take about 15 minutes to swap.  Even on the side of the road.

 

A set of points costs $8. 

 

I have a spare dizzy all set up and in the trunk.  I can swap that alone in about 5 minutes. I lost count of how many times a car at a meet or club drive had an issue with an electronic conversion.

 

My car starts great and runs great.  Like I said, I just don't get it.

 

James.

I think there are a number of reasons. First off the quality of point sets out there isn't what it used to be. I tried 3 different sets from different sources and they were all inferior quality. Plus even if they are decent they will wear ......the trigger does not. And then there is the fun you can have trying to run the new fuel formulas. My set up fires up instantly no matter what......including hot starts. With the matched coil these units are capable of throwing out a huge spark. Saves grinding on the battery too. Then you can also look at how points react to moisture and dirt. The trigger just keeps on working. I used to be OK with points but I am familiar with their short comings too. I have yet to have had to fiddle with the trigger. I do carry a spare just in case but I sorta doubt it will ever get used.

 

Jeff

[mopar_earl]

Everyone is different. I myself don't care for point ignition but I don't condone those that don't like electronic conversion.

Note, you must always check and set the timing when you replace points,or regap them or if install an electronic conversion.

Earl

[James_Douglas]

I think there are a number of reasons. First off the quality of point sets out there isn't what it used to be. I tried 3 different sets from different sources and they were all inferior quality. Plus even if they are decent they will wear ......the trigger does not. And then there is the fun you can have trying to run the new fuel formulas. My set up fires up instantly no matter what......including hot starts. With the matched coil these units are capable of throwing out a huge spark. Saves grinding on the battery too. Then you can also look at how points react to moisture and dirt. The trigger just keeps on working. I used to be OK with points but I am familiar with their short comings too. I have yet to have had to fiddle with the trigger. I do carry a spare just in case but I sorta doubt it will ever get used.

 

Jeff

Well Jeff, On this issue we will have to disagree.  I have tried new points, NOS Points, and NORS points and I have not found any real difference in the during the last 13 years of daily driving in the Desoto.  Except that some of the NOS Bakelite points rubbing blocks go bad and grind off in a hurry. 

 

One thing that I think causes people to have an issue with points is the proper mating of the capacitor.  Due to wire changes with age, resistance going up, the "match" of a particular capacitor to a set of points changes.  I follow a very old 1930's Motor Manual section on watching the points in a particular car/dizzy for six months and note which way the deposits are going on the points.  Then I adjust the capacitor up or down until I get the minimum. Once I get that for one dizzy in a car then the points last sometimes as long a 2 years of daily driving before I have any issue and need to replace them.

 

But as stated, to each their own. I find over time to have seem more old cars stranded due to problems with conversion than the stock set up.  But, my experience is hardly science, just observation.

 

James.

[Jeff Balazs]

James;

It is perfectly OK if we disagree. It is a matter of preference really. I do think you are pretty much right on about the resistance thing. I have had vehicles with points that were fairly trouble free. But I have had others that would crap out if you spilled a glass of water within 10 feet of them. I bought a set of points from one supplier that looked like it had been made around a fire in Cambodia. Very...very rough....and brand new. (Maybe) If you have a reliable supply of OEM parts and a distributor that is in perfect shape there is probably no reason to consider a conversion.

 

Jeff