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1949 Dodge B1-D......or What have i gotten myself into?????


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Posted

Definitely planning on adding an aftermarket gauge to monitor it, but where can I install the sending unit in the block besides a T fitting in the original oil pressure line? I noticed there were two plugs in the block near it...one smaller one and a larger one. Could either of these be used to plumb in an electronic sending unit for an aftermarket gauge? Also is there anyone on here who knows where to send my original or can rebuild my original?

Posted

Nice so if I'm understanding correctly I can pull any of the plugs and replace with a sending unit? Guess I'm gonna be picking up an electronic one or another mechanical unit as soon as I can!

Posted

I am in the process of converting it to 12 volt since it was already partially converted when I bought it.

Posted

OK, after some thought I am following the advice of using a mechanical aftermarket gauge and have located one at the local parts shop, but I now have another question, what size and type of thread will I need for the fittings on the engine end of the line?

Posted

If I recall they are all 1/8" tapered pipe thread.

 

So 1/8 NPT when im looking for fittings? Gotcha.

Posted

Didn't the gauge kit come with some brass fittings for connecting to the engine? One of them is likely 1/8" NPT

It does come with them, I was just anticipating the chance I may need a 90 degree fitting thus why I asked.

Posted

It does come with them, I was just anticipating the chance I may need a 90 degree fitting thus why I asked.

You can probably find a  90° brass 1/8" NPT street elbow in the plumbing section of your local hardware store.

  • Like 1
Posted

You can probably find a  90° brass 1/8" NPT street elbow in the plumbing section of your local hardware store.

 

Will def keep that in mind! The shop that carries the gauge im going with has a bunch of brass fittings as well. I remember assembling a fuel pressure gauge assembly using their parts for my Diesel...though granted i never did install it lol....I may end up fitting that unit to the truck as well.

Posted

Ok, when we were working on the truck the other day it was pointed out to me that the truck has the wrong type of plugs and wires on it. The previous owner had installed resistor type spark plugs (the ones with the non removable tip on them) and accel 8mm "noise suppression" type plug wires. I plan on installing an MSD Streetfire cdi ignition on the truck and installing it in its "points triggered" wiring configuration which keeps the truck original in terms of running points and building in a redundant backup ignition in the event the MSD failed I can just switch it back to its stock set up. Now with that all said what plugs should I be running in my truck? It has been recommended that I try a colder range of plug due to the hotter ignition spark produced by the MSD upgrade. I will keep the current accel wires and coil in use. What I need to know is what stock plugs would be so I have a base to start from in terms of going to a different range of plugs.

Posted

So...i managed to finish up wiring in the kill switch in the truck today...and after i fired it up it turns out the oil pressure gauge does in fact work, it just was barely moving last time i had it running. Still going to install an aux mechanical gauge just for that added peace of mind along with a voltage gauge once i finish the Alternator install. I have decided i am going to go with a GM 3 wire and use parts from Quality power to make the install a bit easier. More then likely i will be upgrading to the use of welding cable or large gauge stereo power wire for the alt to battery wire, starter to master disconnect and master disconnect to battery positive wires. It might be just a touch overkill but the less resistance on that part of the truck the better. The main reasons for the toggle switch kill switch and the master battery disconnect are simple.....anti theft along with upgrading to locking door handles from VPW. Once i get a chance to pull the key switch i will rewire the toggle switch to pull its power from it instead of directly from the battery. 

Posted

I put a three wire Mopar alternator on. Very easy to do.

 

Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for the Mopar Alt?

Posted

Put "Mopar alternator schematic" into Google and find the one for your needs. If memory serves me correct: 1) wire from ignition to alternator regulator blue post, 2) # 10 wire to the battery, 3) I used a long all thread bolt to mount and put double nuts to center and hold. Like Reagan once said, "Trust, but verify".

Posted

Put "Mopar alternator schematic" into Google and find the one for your needs. If memory serves me correct: 1) wire from ignition to alternator regulator blue post, 2) # 10 wire to the battery, 3) I used a long all thread bolt to mount and put double nuts to center and hold. Like Reagan once said, "Trust, but verify".

Geez PP you have a real opportunity to help someone with your work experience and you point them to a search engine?

Posted

Looks simple enough to follow from the looks of this one...bonus points for the fact that Quality power does have an adapter harness for the Mopar Alternator as well provided its a dual field unit. And im pretty sure their adapter bracket will adjust enough to work with the Mopar unit. Im more or less using that as a template however and having a one piece unit made by my buddy. Now the thing that throws me off a bit is what do i do about the pulley? Do the mopar alternators have the same size shaft as the GM and Ford units?CTD_Alternator_Wiring.gif

Posted (edited)

As long as the pulley uses a nut to hold it on, yes, same size as Ford, Chev.  5/8" diameter, same as used on generators.  Be careful what Chrysler alternator you choose.  Some of them use the car's computer to regulate it's output although Quality Power's system may negate that.  The older 60's and 70's alternators work well and are single field units, no adapter harness needed, probably less expensive than the dual field units.  Check the amp output on the alternator you're choosing.  Anything over 60 amps will usually require a voltmeter instead of an amp meter.

Edited by Dave72dt
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

As long as the pulley uses a nut to hold it on, yes, same size as Ford, Chev.  5/8" diameter, same as used on generators.  Be careful what Chrysler alternator you choose.  Some of them use the car's computer to regulate it's output although Quality Power's system may negate that.  The older 60's and 70's alternators work well and are single field units, no adapter harness needed, probably less expensive than the dual field units.  Check the amp output on the alternator you're choosing.  Anything over 60 amps will usually require a voltmeter instead of an amp meter.

 

Good to know thanks! Now that you mentioned the generator...could i use the pulley off of my original 6 volt generator on whichever alternator i end up with as long as its the 5/8" shaft? That would save me having to order one with the parts from Quality power when i make that order if that is possible.

Posted

You will want to get a matched pulley from Quality power. Needs to be the correct diameter. Also you need to specify belt width based on the other pulleys you are already using. I have their 50A 6V single wire alternator and it works great.

 

Jeff

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