joey4420 Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 I have two motorcycle issues. One is my 74 Harley and it rattles every nut and bolt loose. I have tried lock-tite and one gas tank mount bolt keeps coming loose. Any better options? Second issue is my 1960 triumph exhaust spigot keeps coming loose, I have tried high temp sealant but it just burns up. I seem to be taking this apart more than riding it. Any very high temp sealant options? Thanks in advance, Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 locking tabs not that big a job to make and install 1 Quote
joey4420 Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Posted March 24, 2015 Hadn't thought of locking tabs. That may work for the Harley, but I doubt it will work for the triumph. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 24, 2015 Report Posted March 24, 2015 have you upgraded to oversize threaded spigots on the Triumph? self tapping and come with proper sealant...if not you may get by with this...some have gone so far as to get a nice set of spigots welded in place.. Quote
wayfarer Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 Like the webmaster I would suggest wire. Several decades ago I rode a Norton and a riding buddy like to kid me about a trail of falling parts behind me as we rode...safety wire fixed it. There are, perhaps, better adhesives available today however. Check the loctite web site. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products.shtml Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) never lost a part or had one come loose on my 850 Norton Commando...every time we went out for a weekend ride the Harley guys wanted to trade bikes and ride the Norton..well so did a few of the HOnda boys...the CBX1000 was a fair trade off for enjoyment... Edited March 27, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 As part of my prepping my BSA Rocket 3 for salt racing I drilled the bolt heads of most every bolt on the engine and wire tied everything. Long tedious job but it worked. I no longer have the 1969 BSA but that glass door cabinet pictured above the motorcycle is now hanging on the wall above my work bench and the pie safe in front is now in my dining room. Wish I would have kept some of my old vehicles. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) that was mr barney bad butt at the time for the off the show room available bike...then the Kawasaki 2 stroker hit...that was now king of the heap for acceleration...of course you still got the good ole widowmaker in the background...Vincent Black Shadow..never got to ride one...but seen a number of them in life.. Edited March 27, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 I always wanted an Ariel Square 4 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 nice bikes..again never rode one..seen a couple..also the Henderson inline 4's...lots of classics out there in two wheel world.... Quote
austinsailor Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 I always wanted an Ariel Square 4 1958-Ariel-Square-Four-7.jpg Don, I also would like a square four. Not exactly sure why, but I guess they're just cool. My brother had a 500 Arial single for a time. Thank goodness for compression release. I've seen auction results where Square fours went for under $5k. Looked ok, might not have been as nice in person. Last year I considered bidding on one, when it passed $10k I got over it. I think it went a little north of $18k. I don't have that much in my Boss Hoss! Guess I'll just keep riding it. Quote
austinsailor Posted March 27, 2015 Report Posted March 27, 2015 Oh, on the subject of Locktite, don't ever use it around plastic. Their literature tells you not to use it on plastic nuts. It doesn't tell you it'll destroy any plastic it comes into contact with. Ruined the trunk lid of a new 1500 Gold Wing some years ago when I was trying to keep the luggage rack bolts from working loose. Quote
William Davey Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 On your shovelhead, are you sure vibration is not the root cause of the problem? I had a 77 SH stroked to 86", high compression pistons, Branch flowed heads, etc. etc. It did vibrate, but never to the point that anything actually loosened up or fell off. Maybe the crank pin has allowed the bottom end to shift out of true? Quote
deathbound Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 I've used nylon lock nuts on non-heat affected bolts & some type of lock nut that doesn't use nylon-I think the outer end is slightly tapered [?] (don't know what they're called, but got them from a shop I worked at years ago) on heat affected bolts on my '62 Panhead with good results. The nylon gets weak if you R/R them quite a bit, just replace if needed. The only ones that loosened up were the ones without lock nuts. I'm sure there will be negatives with these, but they work for me. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 & some type of lock nut that doesn't use nylon-I think the outer end is slightly tapered [?] (don't know what they're called, They're called Stover Nuts. One thing to watch when using locking nuts is to keep the speed down when tightening. Don't use a high speed impact gun to run them down. The will heat up and loose their locking ability. 2 Quote
joey4420 Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Posted March 28, 2015 The Harley gas tank bolt, I should have said stud. The nut side is stupid tight with lock tite. It is the side that goes into the tank that is backing out. I am think a good two part epoxy. The triumph the only part that seems to come loose so far is the exhaust spigot. Other than that it is the most reliable of my old vehicles. Thinking maybe getting the slightly larger thread option. Quote
deathbound Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 They're called Stover Nuts. One thing to watch when using locking nuts is to keep the speed down when tightening. Don't use a high speed impact gun to run them down. The will heat up and loose their locking ability. Googled "stover nut" images....that's exactly what they look like. Usually run them up tight with a ratchet & back-up wrench. Thanks for the info. Quote
Ulu Posted April 1, 2015 Report Posted April 1, 2015 I use various Loctites for various stuff, but I've used other things too. Once I had a carb float stick on the old B&B & had to pull the air horn out in some deserted parking lot at night. I ripped the gasket too. I had used loctite to keep the carb screws in & that glued the gasket down enough to rip. Now I had nothing but a few tools, plus a badly ripped gasket that was gonna leak like a sieve all over the exhaust header. The one store open there had a tube of Krazy Glue for 99 cents. I glued the gasket back together carefully & dried it & then soaked it from the edges with the glue until it swelled a little. I hung it to dry while I cleaned all the screw threads. Once it skinned well (the core of the gasket was still not quite cured) I put it all together with Krazy Glue on the screw threads too. I never changed that gasket & that carb never leaked. Hot gasoline evidently does not dissolve Krazy Glue Until I switched to a Holly model 1920, I modded that B&B many times, and several times I re-used carb gaskets which I'd soaked in Krazy Glue. Quote
Ulu Posted April 1, 2015 Report Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) The Harley gas tank bolt, I should have said stud. The nut side is stupid tight with lock tite. It is the side that goes into the tank that is backing out. I am think a good two part epoxy. The triumph the only part that seems to come loose so far is the exhaust spigot. Other than that it is the most reliable of my old vehicles. Thinking maybe getting the slightly larger thread option. Epoxy will probably work fine if it isn't subjected to high heat while under stress & some are more heat resistant than others. If this bolt is right above the exhaust header, epoxy might not be the best thing. Also, if you use epoxy with powdered metal fillers, they will rust if not painted. Actually the stuff I used rusted through my paint too. I shouldn't have wet sanded it. You might want to make up a custom stud with really tight threads on the tank end, so it literally jambs tight metal-to-metal and galls there forever. Otherwise braze it in and re-paint your tank Edited April 1, 2015 by Ulu Quote
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